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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
From what I can find out, the demand for their heads was so high, they couldn't keep up with orders and deliveries, so they sell mostly to other sellers and let THEM handle the problems, although the other sellers also add to the price you pay. I think I saw one on E-bay for $550. I got mine just as the Alabama head was getting scarce. You can also buy a "TUPY" head from Mopar, but I think that's a bare head without valves.
From what I can find out, the demand for their heads was so high, they couldn't keep up with orders and deliveries, so they sell mostly to other sellers and let THEM handle the problems, although the other sellers also add to the price you pay. I think I saw one on E-bay for $550. I got mine just as the Alabama head was getting scarce. You can also buy a "TUPY" head from Mopar, but I think that's a bare head without valves.
Good to know i'll keep that in mind.
Seems my issue will be electrical in the hatch as my plate light isnt working and i may need to do a 3rd brake light as well. As i stated before the loom the wires come in one the driver side of the top of the hatch is split open and some wires are exposed.
Nothing i am not used to... lol Do they make harnesses for these?
Seems my issue will be electrical in the hatch as my plate light isnt working and i may need to do a 3rd brake light as well. As i stated before the loom the wires come in one the driver side of the top of the hatch is split open and some wires are exposed.
Nothing i am not used to... lol Do they make harnesses for these?
Check the grounds and components in this location...
Back driver side, you will see the rear wiper, tail lamp and all that good stuff grounds in the back. Look at pic for reference.
I bet something back there needs a little cleaning / inspecting.
O_O ok so I'll check that asap, i now the harness has cracked insulation on the wires so I will pull it and fix it. if i can get to the wires they look solid so i might be able to salvage it without pulling the whole thing...lol
Anyone know anything about the BRAKE (!) light on my dash? I assume its because i pulled the e-brake and the switch is stuck?
EDIT: I realize it could be due to the brakes being low or a leak, so i'll add that to the look over...lol Im gonna pull the wire at the prop valve and see if it goes away,
SIde note i diagnosed my CEL today using my fixd sensor and app. I got 2 codes one is the LDP one and the large leak one. So i gues my LDP is bad. I don't need it for emissions but i do want the cel gone so i am gonna try and fix it
So once i test the rear high mount and plate light tomorrow i may just have to pull it and rebuild the harness, if i do is there any way to get a new grommet from the hatch to the body, the one on mine is super torn. I am gonna check local yards tomorrow see if i can find some spare parts.
In other news i will have her hopefully registered tomorrow so i can get it to my dads for work when the weather is crap due to our garage being full of my stuff when i moved here...lol
UODATE: The 3rd brake light works fine, but still no plate light so I am leaning towards a bad socket or a broken wire since they both share a ground. So i am gonna pull the plastic and trace the plate wires back to the plugs
Found the culprit its the brown/yellow wire in the harness, it snapped. I am gonna pull the top of the harness down and repair what i can there as it seems that's where all the damage is.
The loom/grommet is shot , is there a replacement? If not suggestions to keep water out of the hatch?
And now my hatch wont latch closed. Plus the latch it's self wont lock, i can move it with a screwdriver open and closed without any resistance. So theres a little wheel at the bottom in the pic that i can move with a screw driver and it is supposed to latch the hatch and it will and the handle will release it but unless i use a screwdriver and move it again, it wont latch. Also there is this plug that is getting 0 power even though the harness is fine, i have 0 clue what its for
When you have that back trim off for the grounds as DumaJones suggested, check the back corner in that area for any rot. I had a ton of rot in my 95 and when it rained out over the weekend I found out one reason why - if the hatch is open in the rain, water drains in right at the rear corners. The 2000 may be different (you have a steel tailgate while I have the fiberglass style), but if you're in there anyway - it's worth a check.
If you haven't done the title yet for the Jeep - gird your loins for some shock when they calculate the sales tax.
My 95 Standard Edition that I bought for $800 in CT was valued around 4k for the "blue book value"... I was shocked and angry at Taxachusetts (I mean, more so than my normal level of shock and anger at our corrupt state government.. )
I am still (it seems) fighting the excise tax - the way excise works is that the "value" of the vehicle for taxation purposes decreases every year to eventually (like within the first 5-7 years) be set at 10% of the original retail price. (I found this out during my fight to reduce my bill, of course.)
So for my 2010 Corolla (the family car), the excise value is like 1800 or something like that.. so still extortion, but not breaking the bank. My XJ was valued at 3150 --- meaning that the state is claiming that my SE edition XJ with power -nothing- originally retailed at $31,500 in 1995 (or in other words, more than a base mode, brand new -Wranger - today - NOT adjusted for inflation).
I called them up and they told me they basically couldn't find a value on the vehicle because it was so old. (Bear in mind I found the build sheet with the original MSRP of $16,500 in about 10 minutes on a free vin decoder site.) I argued with them and they basically said they'd accept my 16,500 figure (insinuating "because they couldn't prove me wrong") - but I've heard nothing and they were supposed to send a letter correcting the value so I can file a claim and get some of my money back for last year.
Anyway, I digress. Check for rot while you have the trim out - steel yourself for a big bill if you haven't done the title transfer yet.
When you have that back trim off for the grounds as DumaJones suggested, check the back corner in that area for any rot. I had a ton of rot in my 95 and when it rained out over the weekend I found out one reason why - if the hatch is open in the rain, water drains in right at the rear corners. The 2000 may be different (you have a steel tailgate while I have the fiberglass style), but if you're in there anyway - it's worth a check.
If you haven't done the title yet for the Jeep - gird your loins for some shock when they calculate the sales tax.
My 95 Standard Edition that I bought for $800 in CT was valued around 4k for the "blue book value"... I was shocked and angry at Taxachusetts (I mean, more so than my normal level of shock and anger at our corrupt state government.. )
I am still (it seems) fighting the excise tax - the way excise works is that the "value" of the vehicle for taxation purposes decreases every year to eventually (like within the first 5-7 years) be set at 10% of the original retail price. (I found this out during my fight to reduce my bill, of course.)
So for my 2010 Corolla (the family car), the excise value is like 1800 or something like that.. so still extortion, but not breaking the bank. My XJ was valued at 3150 --- meaning that the state is claiming that my SE edition XJ with power -nothing- originally retailed at $31,500 in 1995 (or in other words, more than a base mode, brand new -Wranger - today - NOT adjusted for inflation).
I called them up and they told me they basically couldn't find a value on the vehicle because it was so old. (Bear in mind I found the build sheet with the original MSRP of $16,500 in about 10 minutes on a free vin decoder site.) I argued with them and they basically said they'd accept my 16,500 figure (insinuating "because they couldn't prove me wrong") - but I've heard nothing and they were supposed to send a letter correcting the value so I can file a claim and get some of my money back for last year.
Anyway, I digress. Check for rot while you have the trim out - steel yourself for a big bill if you haven't done the title transfer yet.
That's crazy OO Luckily i got away with $25 tax fee due to the jeep being a gift. I am paying for my good fortune by dealing with rust repair...lol
BTW i have started a build thread here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...-sport-247799/
Many pics and will keep all info there
[QUOTE=PatHenry;3523568]That's definitely the way to do it (gift/family transfer)!
Good luck - I'll check out that build thread.
So how far West are you? Closer to NY or Worcester?[/QUOTE
yeah saved me some cheddah 😄 I appreciate you checking out the build some.people have said the same is gone but it's not that bad I'm gonna tear into it this weekend to get a real look.
Im in Chicopee so more towards NY.
10-26-2018, 03:46 PM
