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floor pan replacement how to seam seal

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Old 11-08-2011 | 11:40 PM
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Default floor pan replacement how to seam seal

need some advice on my floor pan. I have it welded in but need to seam seal it. how should i go about this?
I tried 3m brushable seam sealer. first i put it on the bare metal only to find out i should have primed first. so i scraped it all off

then I used self etching primer toped with regular primer. the seam sealer wouldn't stick and reacted with the etch

soooo....... wtf do I do.
I know some of you guys have done your floors maybe you can help me out

what primer, paint, seam sealer combos have worked for you?

I was gonna use chassis saver but the pan is new and I'm afraid it wont stick if theres no rust

I plan on bedlining everything when im done

Last edited by xjheep92; 11-08-2011 at 11:43 PM.
Old 11-09-2011 | 12:03 AM
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you have to paint bare metal or it will rust, rust will form under primer, its pourus (sp?)

you can use chassis saver on new metal , just rough it up really really good with like 80 grit. I did my new floors with it.
Old 11-09-2011 | 03:13 AM
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I just did all my floors, when you do it go grab an industrial strength degreaser and spray everything down with that first then just brush the chassis saver on mine held up with no scuffing or anything just some degreaser
Old 11-09-2011 | 06:36 PM
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thanks guys, I grinded everything back down to clean metal this moring.
next used 80 grit sand paper to further scuff
then degreaser
wiped with paper towels
used wet (water) paper towels
and then dry paper towels
let dry for a few hours
vacumed just to be safe
aplied first coat of chassis saver at 5:00
Old 11-09-2011 | 06:57 PM
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Moved to OEM Tech.
Old 11-09-2011 | 07:01 PM
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thanks wasnt sure if it was oem or advanced
Old 11-09-2011 | 07:48 PM
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never heard of using degreaser, i know the creator of chassis saver always promotes wiping with xeylol or MEK before applying the paint for best adhesion.
Old 11-09-2011 | 08:39 PM
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I recently had to weld a rust hole. It was a small hole, so I sealed the seams with JB Weld, then used bedliner on both floor pans, then applied peel and seal. I sprayed undercoating underneath. This should do it. I've heard that the 3M stuff is better than JB Weld for seam sealing, but read that after I used JB Weld.
Old 11-11-2011 | 12:15 AM
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well the chassis saver didnt hold
this is the third time ive cleaned everything back down to clean
metal on this floor pan.
at least this time the paint just came up in sheets. im sure chassis saver is a great product,but it needs a very rough surface in order to adhear ie rust . if i could rough up the clean metal well enough im sure it would be great but i realy dont even want to risk it at this point

i think i will go back to the basics
rustolium clean metal primer and rust stop paint. its always worked in the past and it will be followed by seam sealer and bedliner
Old 11-11-2011 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by The Blacksmith
never heard of using degreaser, i know the creator of chassis saver always promotes wiping with xeylol or MEK before applying the paint for best adhesion.
Originally Posted by xjheep92
well the chassis saver didnt hold
this is the third time ive cleaned everything back down to clean
metal on this floor pan.
at least this time the paint just came up in sheets. im sure chassis saver is a great product,but it needs a very rough surface in order to adhear ie rust . if i could rough up the clean metal well enough im sure it would be great but i realy dont even want to risk it at this point

i think i will go back to the basics
rustolium clean metal primer and rust stop paint. its always worked in the past and it will be followed by seam sealer and bedliner

I'm gonna say the degreaser was the culprit here. I've never heard of that, and I dont think id spray it on anything I was gonna paint.

maybe in this order.

degreaser
wash
let dry
scuff / sand
wipe with reducer
let evaporate
paint

I have chassis saver on un preped surfaces on my parts jeep (I test my gun on that thing before I move to spraying on the jeep) and it hasnt peeled at all for months in the weather.

If you have chassis saver left, and you resealed the can, sand it all down with a heavy grit paper, get all the loose paint off, wipe it down with xeylol, allow the xeylol (or MEK) but not mineral spirits) to evaporate for atleast an hr, then paint.

I did my whole new metal floor in it, and was throwing tools and stuff on it, sliding a gas tank around in the back and didnt hurt it, then scuffed it all down again, did another coat, and monstalinered it.
Old 11-11-2011 | 12:27 AM
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I'm no body/paint man but gotta ask is it warm and dry? After getting it wet I hope you had some heat and air. Sounds frustrating!
Old 11-11-2011 | 12:39 AM
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the chassis saver is defiantly tough stuff. i hit it with a hammer and it was solid no chips or scratches. have you tried to intentionally peel it up? that is where i ran into trouble. I drilled a hole for a rivet in a spot where i wanted the seam tighter. from there it came up in sheets. I'm afraid the heat from the exhaust below will cause it to lift on its own. what is xeylol or mek?
i still have alot of chassis saver left. i sealed it back up with plastic between the lid and can.
Old 11-11-2011 | 01:07 AM
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I was told use degreaser by a body man he said that and surface prep are the same thing pretty much and I used it on new plate when I played my frame and it hasn't peeled yet also did it on the bottom of my floor pans
Old 11-11-2011 | 01:09 AM
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xeylol and mek are the reducers you use to clean the brushes and stuff or thin chassis saver.

they can be found with paint thinner in the same isle at home depot or other hardware places.
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