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ford 8.8 ???

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Old 02-11-2010, 07:19 PM
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well i just plan on 33s for now. if i ever run out of stuff to do ill go junk yard huntin and start makin it fit. id imagine it wouldnt be a direct bolt in. am i right?
Old 02-11-2010, 07:55 PM
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not even close to a direct bolt in. d44 is direct though if you wanna go that route. if you can weld or own a welder i probably go d44 route
Old 02-11-2010, 08:10 PM
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yea i can weld and own a welder. i wanted to do the disc brakes too thats another reason why i wanted to do 8.8
Old 02-11-2010, 08:15 PM
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ahh ok. well you have to weld new perches and shock mounts on. ruff stuff sells kits to do such things. i think i am going to go with tnt ubes instead (for a little more lift). the 8.8 is stronger but also gives up ground clearence.

and for people that say an 8.8 isnt as strong as d44. the thinnest part of an 8.8 axle is the same as the thinnest part on a D60
Old 02-11-2010, 08:17 PM
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yea i just read that somewhere in the write up section and if i can find a limited slip with 4.10s i wouldnt have to regear anything. that would make life a whole lot simpler
Old 02-11-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by krkx93
yea i can weld and own a welder. i wanted to do the disc brakes too thats another reason why i wanted to do 8.8
disk brakes can easily be put on a D44 Using Hardware from a Explorer 8.8
Old 02-11-2010, 10:10 PM
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If you havent seen it, heres how to add disk to your 8.25
Should be able to pick up the parts for under $100.

http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html
Old 02-11-2010, 10:56 PM
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i agree with the price and effectiveness of the 8.8. mine will be going in when ever i have the coin to order the udes from tnt.

the only problem i have with 8.8 is the clearence issue.

as far as adding disk brakes to an 8.25 for a $100 is that if you shop around you can pickup an entire 8.8 with disk breaks for $100. I bought mine for $152 with 42,000 miles and that was delivered to my shop.

put your pinkey finger out, then put arm out. which one do you wanna bet on not breaking. that is the difference between an 8.8 and an 8.25
Old 02-11-2010, 11:04 PM
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Clearance issue is not really a problem. I had asked that same question on another forum, and someone measured their 8.8 vs a 8.25. Same clearance.

8.8 is a no brainer if you are going to do an axle swap. Yes, the 44 is a bolt in, but good luck finding one, and it will be more expensive than the 8.8. Add the disc brakes hardware and it just doesn't make sense. I got my 8.8 for $99 w/4:10s, including calipers, and brake pads. Dropped an Aussie in there and only had to regear my front.
Old 02-12-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by posjeepxj

as far as adding disk brakes to an 8.25 for a $100 is that if you shop around you can pickup an entire 8.8 with disk breaks for $100.
No, read the link I posted...... you remove the disc brakes from a 93-98 grand cherokee with a dana 35 rear end and put them on the 8.25.
$100 is high for the parts in my area. i picked up my complete swap set for $50.

You can find 8.8s for under $150 with 4.10s and LSD but then you need to buy the bracket kit, ubolts etc and have someone weld them on if you dont have a welder.
Old 02-12-2010, 09:51 AM
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I just did the 8.8 swap total cost was about $325 after buying everything... I paid 200 for the 4:10 lsd 8.8 with the driveshaft flange, To use most explorer flanges you need an adapter u joint 1330-1310 which is $20 at your local carquest. After already having the rear removed of old explorer stuff it took me and my buddys 2 hrs to setup perches shocks and brakes and bolt it in.. Best mod I've done so far
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