ford 8.8
#16
I had one in my XJ with a Powertrax No-Slip. Never any problems. Great for up to 33's. I had also installed ZJ disc brakes, raised the shock mounts, and trimmed the bottom of the diff. I sold it to a guy from Denver and he bolted it in and has been wheeling on it for over year without any issues as well.
It's a pretty decent axle in the 29 spline configuration.
It's a pretty decent axle in the 29 spline configuration.
#17
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I am thinking I will be going the 8.25 29 spline route...I'd rather go direct bolt up config with limited slip/no slip setup.. Don't know that I really need full blow lockers in it... My question is what's the advantage of raising the shock mounts?
#18
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Here is some info I found using Google:
"As far as strength the 8.8 shafts are 1.32" at the smallest point of the diameter. A d44 is 1.19 at the smallest point, which is actually the same size as most 30 spline d60 axles from the factory. I know because I am using cut down d60 axles in a custom d44 FF in the *** end of a offset d44 flattlie. You also get one more spline with the 8.8. It is a personal prefference and money issue for the Jeep owner. There is no right or wrong answere. If you are going to run a 35" tire, either of these axles are a good choice. If you can get the d44 cheap then get it if not, apples for apples the 8.8 is stronger. Also, I don't see why the c-clips are a big deal. You will not break an 8.8 axle with a stock 4.0l unless you dive like an a-hole IMHO.
BTW, some food for thought. There is a Super 44 kit because people break d44 shafts. There used to be a 8.8 FF kit, I know I got one , but Warn no longer sells it because of lack of demand. This is more proof that the 8.8 shafts are strong."
Hope that helps.
#19
Less stuff hanging down below the axle to grab rocks, tree roots. etc. Here's a pic of my current rear axle. I used a set of 8.25" shock mounts that I re-cut to raise them up. A modified 8.25 will look basically the same.
#20
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
I had one in my XJ with a Powertrax No-Slip. Never any problems. Great for up to 33's. I had also installed ZJ disc brakes, raised the shock mounts, and trimmed the bottom of the diff. I sold it to a guy from Denver and he bolted it in and has been wheeling on it for over year without any issues as well.
It's a pretty decent axle in the 29 spline configuration.
It's a pretty decent axle in the 29 spline configuration.
Thanks Frank. I value your opinion.
#23
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8.25 will be a waste of time and money!!!! Do it right and depending on how big you want go with 8.8 or a 14 bolt, thats it for daily driven ride, save money and do it right the first time!!!!!!!!!
#24
you guys are comparing a built 8.8 to a stock dana60. most rear 60's came from the factory with 30 spline shafts (same as a 44) so if you want to compare by spline count you have a marginally stronger axle.
but put less than what it costs for a super 8.8 into a dana60 and you have 35-40 spline alloy shafts which are extremely stronger than the 8.8 which is limited at 31 spline.
don't worry about ring and pinion strength as you don't hear about those stripping/snapping too often on either of the axles anyway.
there is really no contest as to the s8.8 vs a built 60, how often do you see competition rigs running 37"+ tires on 8.8's? and how often on 60's?
now for the stock 8.8 vs stock 44 debate:
the 8.8 is garbage, tubes spin, carrier is weak, and c-clip shafts
dana44 has no real drawbacks stock.
built 44 vs built 8.8:
the 44 has a HUGE aftermarket, you can upgrade the shafts to 33 or 35 spline, which are considerably larger than the 8.8's 31 spline, but the weakness is now in the ring and pinion.
the 8.8 when built right is a stout axle, not the same shaft strength, and they can snap, but you can replace shafts much easier than gears on the trail.
my 2 cents
but put less than what it costs for a super 8.8 into a dana60 and you have 35-40 spline alloy shafts which are extremely stronger than the 8.8 which is limited at 31 spline.
don't worry about ring and pinion strength as you don't hear about those stripping/snapping too often on either of the axles anyway.
there is really no contest as to the s8.8 vs a built 60, how often do you see competition rigs running 37"+ tires on 8.8's? and how often on 60's?
now for the stock 8.8 vs stock 44 debate:
the 8.8 is garbage, tubes spin, carrier is weak, and c-clip shafts
dana44 has no real drawbacks stock.
built 44 vs built 8.8:
the 44 has a HUGE aftermarket, you can upgrade the shafts to 33 or 35 spline, which are considerably larger than the 8.8's 31 spline, but the weakness is now in the ring and pinion.
the 8.8 when built right is a stout axle, not the same shaft strength, and they can snap, but you can replace shafts much easier than gears on the trail.
my 2 cents
#25
Do you hear banjos?
Frank, I must say, you have a bad a$$ XJ, me likey!!
#26
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Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
No, the 8.8 is a traditional axle with a diff cover like the turdy five. The 9" is a drop third member type axle, and while they are very strong, they are quite a bit bigger. Us XJ guys want as much ground clearance as possible, so a 9" is out, unless you're running pretty big rubber. Also the 9" is wider than our XJs, so either you have to get them narrowed, or deal with full sized axles. HTH!!
The 9" came in so many different applications that you can't just interchange parts between a lot of them. There are big bearings, small bearings, the 28 and 31 spline shafts are most common shafts splines but there are a few others. The main problem is the 1500 different widths they came in. So in most cases there full width axles that you need to cut down or if you get one like me out of a Lincoln it's not a full width so it doesn't need to be cut, it's got 31 spline shafts, big bearing, and it has disk brakes.
I personally recomend getting an 8.8 becuase of the hassle of finding the right 9" parts. 8.8 are simple, easy to find. 9" aren't, I just happened to find a really rare axle for a real cheap price other wise I would have gone 8.8.
If I had to choose a 44 vs 8.8, I'd go with a 95+ explore 8.8. You get disc brakes and 31 spline shafts. No it's not bolt on like a 44 can be but it can hold a 37" tire before you start getting some serious breakage in them like spinning a tube. A jeep 44 has 27 spline shafts and I would not put more than a 35 on them with out spending money into upgrading it. By then you could have just paid to put the 8.8 in and be done with it.
Well thats just my opinion any way.
Last edited by Desertfox1023; 09-18-2008 at 12:05 PM.
#27
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
everyone is talking about having to cut and weld new spring plates, what i was considering was pulling one out of a ranger. and as far as the d44 having more aftermarket suport, ha, you must have never been around mustangs. the 88 is found in most mustangs and some 4x4 rangers. and to answer another ? yes they are bad about spinning tubes, but a couple good welds and that fixes that. IMO the 8.8 would be easier to find, around here, and cheaper to build, around here. Oh and a good angle grinder you can cut the pads and brackets off and the welding shops around here charge about 45 to 50 bucks to weld them back on, not bad IMO, plus i have an 88 laying in the back yard.
#28
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Where does a 14 bolt come into this? A 14 bolt is a full width axle.. and talk about a lot of work narrowing... or having the match with a full width up front too?
#29
Do you hear banjos?
To me, full widths are not an option. A lot of the trails where I wheel are too narrow for a full width to get through, with out beating the crap out of the trail. In wide open terrain they are a great low buck upgrade. To me they are very expensive due to the narrowing costs. I agree with the fact that they are very strong, just not a good option.