freaking jeep wont start
#31
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Stationed at Ft Campbell from SW Flordia
Year: 99XJsport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
it should still crank if the crank sensor is bad ;crank sensor is an input to the pcm for fuel injectors and timing coralation
Last edited by mr-warwagon; 01-05-2011 at 01:00 PM.
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: West Texas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
You are correct sir! (mr-warwagon) I forgot, I was crankin but no fire up, my apologies, trying to remember situation. so anyone reading my last post, my bad!
but it still was a P.I.A. as I was on the side of a VERY busy Interstate when it happened.
I did replace lots of stuff , until I found out from code what it was.
so, thats my 2-cents worth!
cpnwrench
#33
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
ITs a 1990 jeep cherokee i drove it out to dinner tonight and went to get back in a start it and i had nothing. my head lights work and dash lights work and thats about it. the gauages dont read any battery level or anything else. its cold *** hell here so i have not looked at anything yet tonight but was woundering if anyone else has a suggestion. i tryed jump starting and that did nothing. i dont think it could be a alternater? maybe a starter??
#34
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Stationed at Ft Campbell from SW Flordia
Year: 99XJsport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You are correct sir! (mr-warwagon) I forgot, I was crankin but no fire up, my apologies, trying to remember situation. so anyone reading my last post, my bad!
but it still was a P.I.A. as I was on the side of a VERY busy Interstate when it happened.
I did replace lots of stuff , until I found out from code what it was.
so, thats my 2-cents worth!
cpnwrench
#35
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 17
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
oh for cryin out loud people, read the thread all the way through before responding....
He already said it's a 5 speed, so no NSS is in play here. CKP also ruled out since it is not cranking.
OP you need to verify a few things:
1. The absolute first thing to check before anything else is the battery. Get the battery LOAD TESTED. Most auto parts stores offer this service for free. This will determine whether the battery is capable of starting the vehicle. Note that it is entirely possible for the battery to be able to run all of your electical accessories, but not be able to start the engine.
2. Clean the battery terminals REALLY well with sandpaper or a terminal tool - even if they look ok, just do it, there can be an invisible layer that forms blocking *most* of the current from flowing, enough to not start, but not enough that the electronics are dead too. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation. If that doesn't work, replace the terminals. Same reason as above...they're cheap...i've saved people a $200+ repair bill by spending $4.30. Sometimes cleaning them just doesn't work. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation.
3. Check 'yer grounds. There are two that usually cause starting issues. One is a thick black wire at the Battery (-) post running to the fender, the other is a copper strap at the rear of the valve cover running to the firewall. Clean up the contact points with some sandpaper and reattach. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease before re-installation.
4. You should now check your ignition switch. Disconnect the small wire running to the starter solenoid. Connect the (+) lead of your multimeter to the wire, and the (-) end to a large hunk of engine metal, or a ground location. Turn the meter to 12V setting, put the display so you can see it inside the vehicle (or find a friend). Turn the ignition switch all the way to crank. You should see the meter jump to 12v +/- when you do so. If not, REPLACE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH.
**note: try this a few times using different ground points if you don't get a reading right away, just to be sure**
He already said it's a 5 speed, so no NSS is in play here. CKP also ruled out since it is not cranking.
OP you need to verify a few things:
1. The absolute first thing to check before anything else is the battery. Get the battery LOAD TESTED. Most auto parts stores offer this service for free. This will determine whether the battery is capable of starting the vehicle. Note that it is entirely possible for the battery to be able to run all of your electical accessories, but not be able to start the engine.
2. Clean the battery terminals REALLY well with sandpaper or a terminal tool - even if they look ok, just do it, there can be an invisible layer that forms blocking *most* of the current from flowing, enough to not start, but not enough that the electronics are dead too. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation. If that doesn't work, replace the terminals. Same reason as above...they're cheap...i've saved people a $200+ repair bill by spending $4.30. Sometimes cleaning them just doesn't work. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease or battery terminal grease before re-installation.
3. Check 'yer grounds. There are two that usually cause starting issues. One is a thick black wire at the Battery (-) post running to the fender, the other is a copper strap at the rear of the valve cover running to the firewall. Clean up the contact points with some sandpaper and reattach. Recommend also wiping on some dielectric grease before re-installation.
4. You should now check your ignition switch. Disconnect the small wire running to the starter solenoid. Connect the (+) lead of your multimeter to the wire, and the (-) end to a large hunk of engine metal, or a ground location. Turn the meter to 12V setting, put the display so you can see it inside the vehicle (or find a friend). Turn the ignition switch all the way to crank. You should see the meter jump to 12v +/- when you do so. If not, REPLACE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH.
**note: try this a few times using different ground points if you don't get a reading right away, just to be sure**
#36
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 17
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
by the way I have a full writeup pending approval on jeepforum. If the steps above check out ok, the rest of the procedure is toward the end of my writeup in the following link:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1145815
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1145815
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