Free Quick Fix!!
#46
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Virginia Beach
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i tried it and i saw no difference. there's still the same slack on the cables.
i dont wanna miss out on making my jeep more responsive but i guess i should be grateful my engine didn't explode when i turned the key
i dont wanna miss out on making my jeep more responsive but i guess i should be grateful my engine didn't explode when i turned the key
#47
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Owensboro, Ky.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
It does not need to be bucking or jerking like it does. Just leave the conduit out but every once in awhile push it in and out and rotate the the cable again so it adjusts.
#48
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Location: Lake Orion, MI
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Year: 2008
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 3.0L CRD
when you adjust it, hold the button the whole time. the conduit needs to come back out a bit. when you go to the TB and twist the linkage to open the valve, you need to be holding the button to the adjuster, which will pull the conduit out and set it at the correct spot.
#49
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you guys might be pushing the conduit in all the way, which you don't want to do. when you do that, the tension on the cable is going to keep the accelerator cable from traveling further, which will keep your TB from opening the valve more, thus killing acceleration. this wouldn't hurt if you don't slam your gas pedal down to the floor and do nothing but city driving and don't go over 50 mph.
when you adjust it, hold the button the whole time. the conduit needs to come back out a bit. when you go to the TB and twist the linkage to open the valve, you need to be holding the button to the adjuster, which will pull the conduit out and set it at the correct spot.
when you adjust it, hold the button the whole time. the conduit needs to come back out a bit. when you go to the TB and twist the linkage to open the valve, you need to be holding the button to the adjuster, which will pull the conduit out and set it at the correct spot.
#50
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Location: Lake Orion, MI
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Year: 2008
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 3.0L CRD
#51
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northfield MN
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
Did this a while back when I saw it on a post somewhere....anyways still made a difference!
#52
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I really thought my XJ was shifting pretty good, but yesterday I went and adjusted mine, I noticed that there was room for better shifting, I told myself, this must have been the way it shifted 20 years ago, also I noticed alot better throttle responce!!!
#55
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fresno, CA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This worked awesome for me! Did it on my lunch break today. Took my slightly hard shifting transmission, more so when cold, and turned it into a smooth but firm shifting machine. Thanks guys
#56
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Location: Fresno, CA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
By the way I noticed mine had a lot of slack in it before with the actual wire showing and now not so much at all. If this helps anybody.
#58
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Location: Herriman, Utah
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#59
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: central michigan
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
its pretty self explanatory. WHAT KIND OF CONDUIT DO YOU USE TO PUT ON THE LINE. AND CAN SOMEONE POST A PIC OF THIS BEING DONE