Freeze plug pin hole leak 1989 xj
#16
Seasoned Member
I have done the rear ones on my 90'. Had no choice one was leaking. I have done many trans swaps over the years so it was familiar territory. A couple of tips for removing trans with just a floor jack. I have 2x6 wood blocks nailed together to get the rig high, I don't trust jack stands that high. I use a piece of plywood the size of oil pan on jack. After unbolting torque converter run wire, rope or bungie cord through bell housing bolt holes. Criss crossing wire or such so the torque converter stays in place. Tranny will want to fall towards heavy torque converter end. Control this by pulling down on tail shaft while lowering and moving around. 2 people is way easier, 1 guy to operate jack.To just replace freeze plug just lower and move back enough for access. Once I had moved it far enough back and down I jacked it up to contact with bottom of rig to hold in place from falling forward. I used self tap screws and a big nail puller on screw end to remove plug. IIRC tapping the new one in straight was the tricky part for me anyways. I didn't want to take chance of leaking so the old timey parts guy recommended the aviation sealer he uses when rebuilding motors himself. No leaks 14 years later.
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89build66 (08-14-2020)
#17
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I have done the rear ones on my 90'. Had no choice one was leaking. I have done many trans swaps over the years so it was familiar territory. A couple of tips for removing trans with just a floor jack. I have 2x6 wood blocks nailed together to get the rig high, I don't trust jack stands that high. I use a piece of plywood the size of oil pan on jack. After unbolting torque converter run wire, rope or bungie cord through bell housing bolt holes. Criss crossing wire or such so the torque converter stays in place. Tranny will want to fall towards heavy torque converter end. Control this by pulling down on tail shaft while lowering and moving around. 2 people is way easier, 1 guy to operate jack.To just replace freeze plug just lower and move back enough for access. Once I had moved it far enough back and down I jacked it up to contact with bottom of rig to hold in place from falling forward. I used self tap screws and a big nail puller on screw end to remove plug. IIRC tapping the new one in straight was the tricky part for me anyways. I didn't want to take chance of leaking so the old timey parts guy recommended the aviation sealer he uses when rebuilding motors himself. No leaks 14 years later.
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