Front Axle U-joint/ Differential Loose
#16
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L 6Cyl
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They're fine, but the floor pans are COMEPLETELY gone... Have been seriously contemplating selling her for the past couple days, someone said I can get 500-800 for how much my xj is rusted underneath but I've done so much work to it if you see the list I posted above, need to know what I should do, would like something with no rust and possibly a little newer like a 98 - 2000
Last edited by mstevens609; 11-26-2019 at 11:43 AM.
#17
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Year: 1995
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Honestly just wondering if I should sell her, have been trying to decide if I should or not for about a week now... I've only had her for a little over a year (AUGUST 2018) (1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L 6Cyl.) (BOUGHT AT 136K MILES NOW HAS 150K) and with all the work I've already done to her (See list in pictures posted above), and everything I know for a fact I still have/want to do to her (fix floor pans, rocker panels, window motors, lift, tires, bumpers, etc) I'm wondering if I should just sell her to a jeep junker for 500-800 because of how rusted she is underneath and have that for a foundation to start saving and getting a better xj
#18
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
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That is a good deal of rust and body damage. I don't think it would be hard to get $500 or more with a solid engine and transmission.
The choice is up to you. I would look harder at the core parts -- frame rails, front spring perches, leaf spring brackets before making a decision.
If the mentioned items are sound, then the body work, while substantial, is still reasonable to do as a restoration - especially if you do it yourself. However, it may be possible to find a solid body later year if you look south and west (VA, TN, etc.) where they don't get the horrid salt damage that we deal with in the northeast and along the coast.
The choice is up to you. I would look harder at the core parts -- frame rails, front spring perches, leaf spring brackets before making a decision.
If the mentioned items are sound, then the body work, while substantial, is still reasonable to do as a restoration - especially if you do it yourself. However, it may be possible to find a solid body later year if you look south and west (VA, TN, etc.) where they don't get the horrid salt damage that we deal with in the northeast and along the coast.
#19
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I could deal with the rust, but the body looks like someone went after it with a hammer. That would stop me.
As far as the diff, play is normal more than likely. If you pull the cover, take the pin out and you might find the spiders and pin are abnormally worn. If you go that far and they;re not too bad you could replace them and the carrier bearings, can do it with a bench and hammer and sawzall. Lol not that I know
As far as the diff, play is normal more than likely. If you pull the cover, take the pin out and you might find the spiders and pin are abnormally worn. If you go that far and they;re not too bad you could replace them and the carrier bearings, can do it with a bench and hammer and sawzall. Lol not that I know
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Last edited by 97grand4.0; 11-27-2019 at 01:44 AM.
#20
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i would just keep going with this one. you're almost there. new replacement rocker panels are pretty cheap, and somewhat easy to replace. you can also "glue" the new rockers to the old once you cut out the rust. they won't sit as flat, but will definitely look stock.
or you can go with 2x4 rocker replacement, using 2x4 steel, of course. then it doubles as a rock protector.
also, maybe a rub tube along the drip rail somehow. i would design maybe an exo cage, since it appears you like to bounce it off trees and rocks. or maybe be previous owner did that damage, but regardless, if you're gonna continue that type of offroading (which i would), then maybe a cage is best suited for you. then you can have that tree slider along the drip rail designed in to the cage.
as for the drive shaft. as mentioned, if it's just rotational, and appears to be excessive, pull the diff cover, and inspect.
if it's up/down movement, you are gonna need a diff rebuild. at which point, you could go with a junkyard axle, or rebuild this one with a locker.
i say keep it. you have already invested time and money into getting it to where it is now. you're close. keep going with it. you will be happier. then once it's all done, it will be much easier to sell or trade for a newer xj.
or you can go with 2x4 rocker replacement, using 2x4 steel, of course. then it doubles as a rock protector.
also, maybe a rub tube along the drip rail somehow. i would design maybe an exo cage, since it appears you like to bounce it off trees and rocks. or maybe be previous owner did that damage, but regardless, if you're gonna continue that type of offroading (which i would), then maybe a cage is best suited for you. then you can have that tree slider along the drip rail designed in to the cage.
as for the drive shaft. as mentioned, if it's just rotational, and appears to be excessive, pull the diff cover, and inspect.
if it's up/down movement, you are gonna need a diff rebuild. at which point, you could go with a junkyard axle, or rebuild this one with a locker.
i say keep it. you have already invested time and money into getting it to where it is now. you're close. keep going with it. you will be happier. then once it's all done, it will be much easier to sell or trade for a newer xj.
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