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Front brake seize

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Old 06-08-2018, 05:32 PM
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Default Front brake seize

My front brakes seem to seize up whenever I press the brakes to suddey or when I’m backing up. It’s really annoying and it’s starting to burn my disks. Happens everyday. I also just finished replacing the rear brakes and bled the brakes, but they still act as if I’m holding the brake pedal down when I’m not. Any ideas on what it could be? If I can avoid taking my Jeep to a mechanic, that would be great. I feel as though the last time I did, it just made things worse.
Old 06-08-2018, 05:56 PM
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Might help just a bit to tell us exactly what kind of Jeep you have....
Old 06-08-2018, 05:59 PM
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Oh, my bad. 96’ Jeep Cherokee XJ
Old 06-08-2018, 07:30 PM
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Is this something new? Or has it been going on for a while?
Old 06-08-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Is this something new? Or has it been going on for a while?
it’s happened before, when it was a bit cooler and went away for the summer. I asked some guys at autozone and they said I might need to grease my calipers, but I figure it’d be better to ask a few other people with similar vehicles
Old 06-08-2018, 10:00 PM
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Do you have big gouges on your steering knuckle? It's a common problem and can cause the pads to hang up.
Old 06-08-2018, 10:37 PM
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If you plan to keep it for awhile, this is a great project to start with. Calipers are cheap and while you are at it, replace the flexible lines too. The flexible lines will we swell and cause caliper problems. If you do replace the lines and calipers, get a set of flare wrenches for brake lines. Those will make the job a lot easier.
To finish everything, you'll need something to bleed the brakes with. A mityvac works great. If you have a compressor, get a vacuum bleeder from harbor freight.
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Old 06-08-2018, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by PatHenry
Do you have big gouges on your steering knuckle? It's a common problem and can cause the pads to hang up.
I don’t know what those are, but I’ll check them out when I find out where to find them. This to me seems the most plausable only because it happens when I turn the wheel too.
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Old 06-08-2018, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dzywicki
If you plan to keep it for awhile, this is a great project to start with. Calipers are cheap and while you are at it, replace the flexible lines too. The flexible lines will we swell and cause caliper problems. If you do replace the lines and calipers, get a set of flare wrenches for brake lines. Those will make the job a lot easier.
To finish everything, you'll need something to bleed the brakes with. A mityvac works great. If you have a compressor, get a vacuum bleeder from harbor freight.
that sounds really complicated, but I dont really have much choice. I’ll check everything out once inhave all the proper tooling
Old 06-09-2018, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabegnzlz


I don’t know what those are, but I’ll check them out when I find out where to find them. This to me seems the most plausable only because it happens when I turn the wheel too.
Referring to what the ends of brake pads sit on. Part of the steering knuckle, the pads slide on this piece and over time will wear indents into the slide. Then the pads get stuck in the indents and will not release. Indents should be filed smooth if they are shallow. Filled with weld and filed flat if deep.

Did you use a diagram to properly install rear shoes, make sure shoes are correctly oriented (fore and aft shoes are different)?

For diagnosing which brake is dragging, an infra-red temperature gun works very well.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dzywicki
while you are at it, replace the flexible lines too. The flexible lines will we swell and cause caliper problems. If you do replace the lines and calipers, get a set of flare wrenches for brake lines. Those will make the job a lot easier.
Agreed! Just went through this with my family car. Old brake lines = toasted brakes.
Old 06-09-2018, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Referring to what the ends of brake pads sit on. Part of the steering knuckle, the pads slide on this piece and over time will wear indents into the slide. Then the pads get stuck in the indents and will not release. Indents should be filed smooth if they are shallow. Filled with weld and filed flat if deep.

Did you use a diagram to properly install rear shoes, make sure shoes are correctly oriented (fore and aft shoes are different)?

For diagnosing which brake is dragging, an infra-red temperature gun works very well.
it’s definitely the front brakes because I can visibily see the discoloration on the disks from being getting too hot and a bit of chafing. I’ll do what I can right now, but I also have very limited resources. Thank you! I made sure to take pictures of everything before ripping it all apart. It was a little confusing at first, but once I got one side done, the other side was a lot easier
Old 03-13-2021, 12:02 AM
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I see nobody has tried helping with the brake pull issue.
Your brakes pull to one side as one side is working and the other isn't.
The brake systems on these 20+ year-old vehicles are pretty simple.

My guess based on experience, is one of the calipers is hung up and not closing the pads together as it should.
Check how evenly all 4 pads on an axle are wearing, that should tell you a lot.

If its a caliper, change them both.
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:50 PM
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My vote is bad caliper. Equally as important as changing them in pairs is changing the break fluid every few years.


Old 03-13-2021, 01:02 PM
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I'm voting the OP solved this about 3-year ago.
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