front drive shaft from xj in the rear without any sye.
10-21-2013, 09:39 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
front drive shaft from xj in the rear without any sye.
I was wonderibg if I could run a front driveshaft from a Cherokee in the rear without any slip yoke eliminator because my drive shaft seriously has about an inch left in the tc and I need a quick cheap fox.
Trending Topics
10-21-2013, 12:29 PM
#11
Junior Member
You need to find different friends.
Either that or your comprehension skills suck.
Either that or your comprehension skills suck.
Last edited by Lowrange2; 10-21-2013 at 12:38 PM.
10-21-2013, 01:19 PM
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Williamsport, Pa
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Here, take a look at this picture:
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
Last edited by Cherockee; 10-21-2013 at 01:26 PM.
10-21-2013, 01:37 PM
#15
Junior Member
Here, take a look at this picture:
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
It's either replace it with a factory rear shaft or buy an SYE.
It's a shame they don't still make those little ***** for kids to learn which hole the square peg fits in.