front drive shaft from xj in the rear without any sye.
10-21-2013, 02:50 PM
#16
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Here, take a look at this picture:
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
Notice the mount for the front driveshaft.
Now look at this picture:
Thats a picture of a SYE. So despite what some have told you it will probably mount up ok. The real problem may be that you will now have two slip joints, one in the t-case and one on the driveshaft. You would have to eliminate the one on the t-case and that could be done easily by drill and tapping it and bolt in into the shaft of the t-case. Like a hack-n-tap without the hack. After you did that then you'd still have to see if the drive shaft is still too long. As the suspension travels up the driveshaft will compress, and if your driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.
I think the question is, why do you want to do this on a non-lifted Jeep? Or is it lifted? Don't forget you'll need degreed shims.
Oh, and this is what you have currently on your Jeep:
The U-joints are the same, so it's just a little differnt mounting then on the front output of the t-case
10-21-2013, 02:58 PM
#17
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
No. It just won't work. It's not a matter of having 2 slip joints... It's a matter of the ***** just won't bolt up. It's not possible. In any universe.
It's either replace it with a factory rear shaft or buy an SYE.
It's a shame they don't still make those little ***** for kids to learn which hole the square peg fits in.
It's either replace it with a factory rear shaft or buy an SYE.
It's a shame they don't still make those little ***** for kids to learn which hole the square peg fits in.
10-21-2013, 03:03 PM
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Sorry to dissapoint you, but I've done it. I don't have any pictures of it though because it was many years ago. So when you're not 100% sure of something next time don't act so childish. Try to restrain your temper and move on. It's okay when your wrong once and a while.
You put a stock front cv driveshaft on the rear of your XJ without a SYE?
10-21-2013, 03:04 PM
#19
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Sorry to dissapoint you, but I've done it. I don't have any pictures of it though because it was many years ago. So when you're not 100% sure of something next time don't act so childish. Try to restrain your temper and move on. It's okay when your wrong once and a while.
Lets see a picture please.
10-21-2013, 03:07 PM
#20
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
If I'm reading right he is saying he bolted the slip yoke off of a rear shaft onto a FRONT shaft then used the frankenshaft on the rear. Why? I have no idea. I'd like to see a pic...
10-21-2013, 03:14 PM
#21
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Then the bolts that thread into the shaft are too big to fit through the axle yoke without drilling.
10-21-2013, 03:34 PM
#24
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sorry to dissapoint you, but I've done it. I don't have any pictures of it though because it was many years ago. So when you're not 100% sure of something next time don't act so childish. Try to restrain your temper and move on. It's okay when your wrong once and a while.
10-21-2013, 03:48 PM
#25
Junior Member
Sorry to dissapoint you, but I've done it. I don't have any pictures of it though because it was many years ago. So when you're not 100% sure of something next time don't act so childish. Try to restrain your temper and move on. It's okay when your wrong once and a while.
Perhaps you zip tied it up there?
10-21-2013, 03:51 PM
#26
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I think he might be full of crap too, but given the amount of mod I had to do to make my rear SYE work I'd say anything is possible.
Long NP242 + removed cone + DID NOT cut output shaft + SYE = made it work. If I just said that a few people would call BS on me too. Check my sig, there's pictures.
Long NP242 + removed cone + DID NOT cut output shaft + SYE = made it work. If I just said that a few people would call BS on me too. Check my sig, there's pictures.
10-21-2013, 03:51 PM
#27
Junior Member
Perhaps this ******* pulled the double cardan joint apart and put a slip yoke on in it's place.
****ing idiotic.
Here's a picture for the OP to use as comparison.
Also, OP, please don't listen to this individual doing stupid ****.
****ing idiotic.
Here's a picture for the OP to use as comparison.
Also, OP, please don't listen to this individual doing stupid ****.
10-21-2013, 03:59 PM
#30
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I'm gonna pull mine, paint them black, then add a red swirl stripe to them so they are cool.
My rear housing is so beat up lol
My rear housing is so beat up lol