After a winter of solid service by my XJ, I decided to finally attempt the front shocks job now that the weather is nice again. Since internet forum braggarts estimate for this job clock in at 20 mins, I got up at 5:30am, and set aside 14 full hours to do this job, and I have all of tomorrow set aside also, just in case.

The top stock bolt is pretty rusty, and it's safe to assume these are the original shocks. So, like almost every other DIY on this XJ, I could not get past the very first step. When I attempt to turn the 15mm bolt, the top sleeve of the shock just turns. I tried to hold the shock in place with my other hand, but this proved to be very awkward.

How do I remove this top bolt? Yes, I have been PB Blasting it for a week.

I read another post suggesting using "channel locks" to hold the top shock sleeve in place. I do not own a pair of channel locks, as I've never come across a situation that required them. Is this job possible without the use of this tool? If this tool is indeed required, how exactly do I use it to hold the shock in place? Do I hold it while turning the bolt? I just don't see getting the right leverage this way. Are the front shocks a 2 man job? Or do I wedge it against something?

Even if I can somehow immobilize the rotating sleeve, I have a serious feeling I am going to strip the top bolt. Is this common?

I do not have a professional grade garage or lift, and I do not have access to electricity, so pro tools like dremels & angle grinders and OXY torches are not an option.
I just have $1000 worth of simple hand tools that are supposedly enough to work on XJs (LOL!)

Also, are there any tips for the bottom bolts of the front shocks?
Do I just turn the bolt with a hand wrench (socket head won't fit),
or do I need to somehow need to secure the nut underneath, as well?

 

Its really really really easy.

Cut the stuff off and use new hardware if you have to.

 

Channel locks are cheap, you should have a set. If it were me I'd soak the bolts in blaster for a day or two, hold the channel locks tight gripping the top of the shock and hold them there between my knees.

This is a seriously easy job. I cannot stress that enough. Just get in there and make it happen.

Yes, it really is that easy.

 

If it were easy, I wouldn't be posting, would I ?
(And mechanics wouldn't charge $300 to do a 15 min job, would they?)
Sorry, but nothing about working on cars is easy. *

So, I basically have to have channel locks to do this job?
Great, wish someone told me that before I took a day off.
What size channel locks do I need? The shock is a little over 2" wide.
Yet, all the channel locks I see are like 9" or 12" What is that? The handle length?

Also, how on earth do you hold the channel locks b/w your knees, and also turn the bolt under the hood?
Are you like 9 feet tall? Or, is this a 2 man job?

 

I used a pair of vice grip against the tip of stud. A wrecked the thread but that's ok. When the nut reaches the damaged threads, I put the vice grips under the nut and forced it over. Of course I was not intending of reusing the shock.

 

Its easy. You must just be "that guy" that either can't turn a wrench or is too afraid to.

 

1.) if you have a garage, get some amperage running out there, man!
2.) once you do that, fear no more of auto repair jobs.
3.) Just wait till you get to the rear shocks, those are real fun.
4.) I'd think that vice grip pliers hooked on there tight enough should do the trick. If you have $1,000 worth of hand tools and don't have those, then that would be unwise!

Good luck.

 

Vice grip around the thread above the plastic sleeve. Tighten up and lock it into place using the wheel well as your "leverage". You may need to move some stuff on the driver's side to get a wrench solid up top. You're right it's easier with two people but definitely possible with one. Good luck.

 

You said you have plenty of time, take 20 minutes and run to the hardware store and pick some up
He already did... you must have missed all the threads and weeks of him scared

 

I borrowed a massive 18 inch channel lock from a professional plumber. I was able to get the nut loose!

Man, It's going to take me an hour just to remove that bolt, 1/8 turn at a time!

• Do people usually remove the air box to get at that top bolt more easily?
• Does the car need to be jacked in the air to do this job? I don't know if there needs to be "slack" on the shock. Will it come out if it's compressed down, when on the ground?
• Also, does the tire need to be removed? I assumed I could do it with the tire still on.

Also, please don't answer with "It's easy". That doesn't actually make anything easier, nor does it answer any of my actual questions. Thank you.
And no, I don't have mechanic tools like air compressors, so the dealer is going to to the rear shocks.

 

Here we go. There is plenty of advice here. Its just going to take finding what works for holding the stem of the shock so you can get the nut off. Use an air compressor if you have one, it might just break it for you. The drivers side will be the hardest for you since the master cylinder is in the way. Please dont let this take 14 hours.

Well I'll edit my post then lol. Yes take the tires off and just set the axle on jack stands while you work. It doesnt have to be drooped to remove the stock shocks. You'll be able to pull the shocks out.

 

Tire off makes it easier but isn't required. It doesn't need slack just undo the bolts and pull it out

 

Also, are there any tips for the bottom bolts of the front shocks?
Do I just turn the bolt with a hand wrench (socket head won't fit),
or do I need to somehow need to secure the nut underneath, as well?

 

Put a wrench of the bolt head up top and use a deep well (should be 13mm) socket to loosen the nut underneath.

With all the rust i see, you should be replacing the hardware. Hopefully you have some, if so, just break it all so it'll come off.

 

Here's what I use.. Makes it easy!!