He doesn't have electricity apparently.

I'd have ground off the top nut myself. Eff the bolt.

Again, this is easy.






Its easy.

 

I used a pipe wrench on the body of the shock and ratcheting wrench on the nut. it wasn't bad at all. I had less than an hr in changing mine including wheel removal.

 

My job takes me away from home during the week and I live in an appartment building with an underground parking. There is no power within 100 feet of my jeep. Doing projects without access to power sucks. Took all the seats out once just to clean them in the appartment.

 

I did the fronts myself in my garage. I had to use my Dremel with a cutting wheel to get the drivers side off but installing the new ones was easy. I took one look at the rears and the rusted nuts and drove to Sears and paid $115.

 

I never let anybody else work on my jeep.....ever

 

I played the apartment game for awhile. I went to a buddies place.


Anyway, I agree with the guy who suggested:

 

We are all real interested in such a compelling point. Could you please tell us more...hopefully before the weekend starts? You must be a true leader of men.

 

Your post made me chuckle, just like your username.

 

I have no idea how you can get vice grips onto the top of that stud. I tried the Vice grip trick, and there's no way you can get it on tight enough to not slip. You must recall I have a truly special POS '98 XJ that has rust on every single bolt that requires a mechanic torch for even the simplest stuff. And there is just not enough room to work 2 wrenches in that spot.

This top bolt is actually getting HARDER to turn as I slowly get it off. I'm now stuck again. The channel locks are starting to slip off the shock sleeve, and I am starting to mangle the sleeve itself, since I need to regrip the locks after every 1/8 turn I can manage. Should I tighten it back down, and wire brush the threads again? Do you think rusted metal shavings got caught inside the nut?

Before going further, I made sure the bottom bolts can even be removed. There is no way you can leave the tires on to do this. You need two wrenches, one on the nut and bolt. The front lower bolt is going to be extra fun, very tight fit.

This will easily be an 8 hour job. So far, I am ahead of schedule, for a change!

 

If I did have electricity, how would I use a dremel to cut the bolt? Where EXACTLY do you cut? The bolt is seated flush. You can not get under the nut without loosening it first. But that is the entire point. Do you cut up and down into the bolt itself and somehow cut a bolt off? Is there a video showing how to dremel off a nut? Do you cut the nut only? OR do you cut across the stud/bolt itself? Or both?

 

I think I hammered on a 18mm ( or something) wrench on the bottom and used vice grips on the top. Take out the airbox. There is space. It's a pain in the rear but It can be done!

 

If you had electricity you would want to cut the stud itself, just below the bolt.

Then pull down on the top of the shock body, and it'll drop.

 

How do you get under the bolt when it's flush and seated down tight?

 

I am stuck. I was able to turn this mother****er one little bit at a time. It literally took all my strength just to make it rotate 1/16 of a turn. I am actually grunting out loud like I am doing squats at the gym or something. Should a bolt be THIS hard to turn? I am starting to think this job might need to be punted to a pro. I just can't spin the bolt any further, and the shock sleeve is starting to disintegrate.

 

Just get a really long extension cord to the nearest outlet, borrow or buy a Dremel (like 30 bucks), and cut that **** out. Sounds like your best option at this point--and that will still be cheaper than having a shop do it. Just get mad at it.