cwcorrea

Hi, I have been working on a Cherokee That sat for 25 years and replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator, just about every sensor and every other item that can be unbolted with new items. I even went into the tailgate and redid the clips on the ground wires and brushed up the metal that's behind the spare tire. I have no modifications this is completely Stock. the Jeep runs really good and I'm getting ready to smog it here in California. but my fuel gauge does not move. it was working after I installed the new fuel pump and showed a relatively correct fuel amount. But then it stopped working and is laying horizontal pass the full mark. Someone suggested a better ground and I T-bone The ground wire to the fuel pump and ran a second wire over to the frame. But that did not resolve anything.I'm stumped and I don't know what the next item should be. I replaced the relays and checked all the fuses. So that's where i'm at right now. I appreciate any suggestions or past experience.
thank you.

cruiser54

Being pegged like that leads me to think the wire to the gauge is shorted to ground.

You could check the ohms reading at the sender connector.

cwcorrea

I am able to do basic work like brakes, suspension, replacement, obvious things. But I have never have gotten into electrical. Where are we talking about. The sender connector?
Thank you

cruiser54

Unplug the fuel pump/sender connector. What does the dash gauge do with the key On?

cwcorrea

I will check as soon as I get back home. but I did take a wire from the bumpstop mount which had the cleanest connection to the frame and made sure that the mount were brushed down to expose as much metal as possible. And I ran a wire from the frame and split it into the groundwire at that pump side to fortify the ground connection. But it did not do anything.

lawsoncl

Being slammed to the full reading would point to feed to the fuel level sensor being broken. Does that wire run through the cabin and poke through the floor behind the front seat, like it does on the MJ?

cwcorrea

I unplugged the connector at the fuel tank and turned on the key and the gauge is still showing a flat needle completely horizontal pass the full.

I now have a new issue. My jeep sat for twenty five years under a tree and my windows were completely stuck as
the channel liners, we're hardened and caked. So I pulled the doors apart and was able to replace all the scrapers and channels and outside rubber. I have 2 doors up front now that work perfectly. but during this time I made the mistake of leaving the key on. And I had a battery charger keep the battery charged. So when I went to start the vehicle today, after finishing the last door I turned the key and did not hear the fuel pumped kick in. I tried starting but all I would do is start for a moment and then flutter and die. after that I could not get it to start. I put gas in it just in case. But the same thing it would not start.I keep turning the key but I do not hear the pump anymore. I replaced the relay with a new relay and swap them around just in case but no fuel pump kicking In.

Do you think I burned up that fuel pump? If so I will immediately replace the pump and hopefully maybe eliminate the fuel gauge issue. I'm getting up in my age. And I'm flipping out because I was supposed to take my truck in to get a new muffler and then smogged and hoping to start driving a little.

I appreciate you guys being here. Cause I get some wonderful advice or ideas.

cruiser54

That indicates to me that the grounding wire to the gauge is shorted further up in the harness.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ

You didn’t leave the fuel pump connector unplugged did you.

cwcorrea

I attached this additional ground and checked it. Same horizontal needle on guage. See pic.

No i tried starting it plugged. Then when the no start issue happened I then unplugged the second ground but no pump priming.

So before when I put the new pump, When you turn the key, you can hear A humming and it would start. Now there's no noise, no, hum, no nothing.

Saudade

So the FSM says if you disconnect the the fuel gauge sender connector and the gauge reads full, the gauge is OK.

It then says to reconnect the sender and disconnect the instrument cluster. Check resistance across pins 15 and ground, or pin 17 and ground. You should see 88 ohms or less (according to Cruiser's chart).

Perhaps something slipped off the fuel sender inside the tank?

cwcorrea

I will go ahead to take off the dash panel and try to get to the gauges. I have not done this before but I know I can remove the paneling I can get to the gauge cluster and hopefully go from there. Probably next few days. I can only do this in the evenings and I am old!!. Also I will be replacing the fuel pump to make sure. Right now I am turning the key with no pump going on. So I think the pump is gone (brand new, less than a few hours and no mileage on it). Bought cheap on eBay. Thank you for the help.

cwcorrea

As I am waiting for a new field pump. I'm probably gonna take the - apart and see if there's any connection issues to the fuel gauge. but I did wanna talk about my now. Lack of fuel pump. As I stated previously I had the truck in the shop. What the electrical on while? I was replacing all the scrapers and window seals and runners. So I can get the windows working again. I noticed that when I finally decided to start it. I did not hear the fuel pump kick in and it will not run. so my question is while I'm waiting. I have one of the idiot light testers. And I would like to see if I have power at the connector going to the fuel pump. but I do not know anything about electricity and how to test things. So this will be my first step. Can someone just walk me through if it's as simple as?Hitting the ground and touchin one of the leads? I appreciate the help and Sorry for the misspellings i'm speaking into my phone.

dmoe69

Before swapping out another fuel pump, try swapping relays - like the A/C clutch and the fuel pump relay and see if you hear it prime when you turn the key on.

cwcorrea

I have bought universal relays in a 4 pack and I have swapped the new ones in and also the old ones from what I believe are working ones. So I have apparently done that. I will do again. What I want to do is check the electrical connector and I have a basic light tester. I have not used it. I guess I would just connect to a ground source and test the positive holes or terminals of the end connector and if ti lights up, I know I have power?????