cwcorrea

As I have been contemplating trying to get on top of the engine to get those ground wires pulled out of the plastic and fix the burnt end, I noticed in this picture a tube along the back firewall. It is coming up from sort of behind the engine. Comes up and makes a turn to the right or the driver side/ top of engine, about engine head or little less in height. The tube feels like metal or hard plastic. (Or hardened). Below the top it appears there is a clamp with a ring in it. White, plastic. But I can not get on top of the engine yet until I plan for this, so I cant see anything except from a slight distance. The coolant hoses and wiring slightly in the way. These are the best pictures I can get stretched. Step stool did not help. I might take the hood off so I can lay across the cowling. Getting too old for this! But I don't know what that tube is (no, not the dipstick).
First two pics are looking from the firewall down. Firewall is bottom of picture. The last is from the front.

I replaced the fusible link and added some extra wire (not fusible. So that repair is complete.

Saudade

If you're referring to the smooth one with the elbow, that's for the evap system. It connects the evap canister to the air cleaner box.

I have that (sorta) white clamp thingy but there's nothing in it.

cwcorrea

Just to clarify, that should have a rubber hose to it then to the canister?
oh my bad, I need to learn to read.

That is coming from the canister and there is a tube that takes it to the airbox?

Saudade

Yes, short hose to connect the hard line to the canister. The hard line then runs along the firewall to the driver side inner fender behind the washer bottle. Then around the front of washer bottle and connects with a curved hose to the air tube on the air box.




If any section is missing or broken, you can use normal hose instead of the plastic tubing. As part of the evap system, this simply routes fuel vapors from the fuel tank back into the intake. There is a plastic venturi inside the air box cover where the curved hose is attached. This provides a mild vacuum to draw the fumes into the intake.

cwcorrea

Hi Saudade,

No, the pictures I posted I was not referring the larger smooth line. I was referring to the short, small, gray tube that seems disconnected. (It is the small curved one next to the wire wrap with that white zip tie piece). It comes from the bottom as if coming from in between the engine and firewall but low and comes up and curves to the driver side and then there is no connection. Connected to it lower is that white clamp or hose holder with nothing in it.

I have to better look at it which means I need to figure out how to lay on the engine bay and free my hands. But as I have been thinking, could that be a broken brake line?
I am looking at your top picture you sent, I don't see ti but I don't wee far enough back and down. By the way, nice clean bay.

Saudade

Sorry I misread. It's hard to tell from your pics. I'm also unsure what hose/line you're asking about.

The one that appears to not connect to anything could be the vent tube for the front diff.

Phydeaux33

I believe it is the vent from the transmission, when I deleted my CAD the vent line ran with the vac lines to that location and ended the same way.

cwcorrea

So you believe it is a vent from transmission. But where did it go? I am not clear where it is supposed to connect? The canister? Or is it supposed to be like it is, attached to a bolt on the back somewhere.

Phydeaux33

Mine just ends there although it has a breather on the end of the line..

Phydeaux33

The blue circle is the breather cap the blue dots are the line going back to transmission. Sorry photo is so large this is the first time I uploaded anything, I'll need to work on that in the future.

Phydeaux33

Only the first 2 blue dots are the line the last 2 disregard, guess I should have blown the picture up when I was marking it.

cwcorrea

So the 2 dots on the right appear to be the same line and the 2 dots on the left with the breather. Cap are attached but basically the line just ends where it's at?? If this is it, then it is. It. no, I'm satis fight and maybe in the future. I'll make sure it might be ziptied in place. But I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't something else. That was falling apart.

Now I am back to that broken gri'm wire That leads into that entire bundle. That's connected to the bolt on the engine block. that will be this weekend's task on trying to figure out how to get on top of the engine Bay and work with 2 hands. I'm home I'm hoping this will solve. Possibly the electrical issue or short, but we never finished that diagnostic. I'm also hoping maybe it's related to the gauge cluster inside and possibly there is a way my radio. Went out and why my fuel gauge is pegged sideways. They repair to the fusible link. Should allow me to get the engine started again.

Apologize coming back to this so late. the last 2 days I've been installing faucet on my kitchen sink and my first adventure at doing any plumbing. of course, the water lines are completely different than theInlet lines. That were installed back in probably the 1930s. I doubt they went that far but probably last thirty to forty years.
thank you for the pics

cwcorrea

Happy holidays and Merry Christmas Eve. I finally fixed the ground wire that was broken, which was a very thin possibly 20 gauge, red and black wire. I fixed that and cleaned everything and bolted it back to the block.

I also added a little too much new wire plus about the same length. 20 gauge fusible link wire there and hooked it back up to the starter, so relay relay. Cleaned everything on the relay as best I could that's that good. I also replaced the resistor for the fuel pump with another brand new resistor.

So after thinking the fuel pump fusible link burnout was the issue, I put the battery in and turn the key. And there's a little clicking with the relays which I cannot determine, since I'm flying solo. I'm assuming it's the Fuel pump relay. I've swap those back-and-forth with new ones and old ones and the same result. the fuel pump will not prime.. I'm back to square one with either trying to find if there is a short or if it's the fuel pump that went bad. Or maybe the starter relay? I'm back to being lost and ready to put a brand new fuel pump in which I already have one ready to go, I don't know where to start. Oh I did take a wire and put it in. Both plugs on the fuel pump resistor and still no prime.

Merry Christmas guys. And I hope you have wonderful time with your family. I hope to try to get the new fuel pump in tomorrow.. Or at least sometime this week.

New connector on ground with a new spice or extra wire and cleaned and bolted back up

New wire, may be way too much wire, and new fusible. And everything hooked back up

Older photo with broken wire.

cwcorrea

Hi guys,

I finished my wire work. Replaced the fusible link for the fuel pump, new connector on a thin black/red ground that broke on the bundle on the engine bolt. Cleaned all that. took out the fuel pump and hooked the new one. Battery and turned the key, the pump primes or goes on. SO the issue of not starting was the pump. Still dont know what burned up the other new pump and shorted that fusible link. Just waiting for a lock ring. My lock ring is a little twisted and banged up.

One question on the pump. The new pump came with two size ringings. One is the standard round diameter ring. The other is a thicker, square diameter o ring. What is the thicker one for?

This week when I get the new lock collar, I will let you know if I get the gauge back.
Thanks

3Dog

Good progress. You are persistant.