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Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor Questions

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Old 01-09-2020, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by aa7kn
I agree it is your balast resistor. the resistor is bypassed during start up so the pump gets full 12 volts. after the engine starts, the balast resister is now in the curcuit and drops the voltage down to something less than 12 Volts so as to make the pump last longer and not be so loud running full forse. when the balast resister goes bad it can either open up, causing your enging to stop running, or the resistance will decrease causing the pump to have full 12 volts. so I would suggest changing the ballast resister, they are cheap and available on E-Bay or a auto parts store. I'm sure that will solve your problem.
I just changed it today. The sound is still there. Should I try changing the spade connectors that attach to the ballast? Because those were corroded also.
Old 01-09-2020, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by AlSpeciale
I just changed it today. The sound is still there. Should I try changing the spade connectors that attach to the ballast? Because those were corroded also.
If you have new connectors then certainly change the old corroded ones to fresh new ones. This shouldn't make anything quieter though as you're only improving the voltage to the pump by using clean connections.
Old 01-11-2020, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aa7kn
best way to avoid the connector corrosion at the balast resister is to put heat shrink tubing over the wires, then solder the wires to the tabs on the balast resister,. then slide the heat shrink tubing over the tabs and shrink the tubing with a lighter, it makes a nice tight seal that lasts longer then you'll own the car.
I replaced the ballast and the noise is still there at the same volume. Will be replacing the connectors next.
Old 01-11-2020, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by boxburn
If you have new connectors then certainly change the old corroded ones to fresh new ones. This shouldn't make anything quieter though as you're only improving the voltage to the pump by using clean connections.
so should I try replacing the fuel pump assembly?
Old 01-12-2020, 03:23 AM
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Disconnect the wires from the ballast resistor and connect them together. Start the motor and if you still hear the same sound with it disconnected, either your ballast resistor is no good and passing all 12 volts to the pump, or you have a noisy pump. Hope this helps.
Old 01-12-2020, 05:33 AM
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It is starting to sound like that is the only step left to take.
Old 01-12-2020, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by aa7kn
Disconnect the wires from the ballast resistor and connect them together. Start the motor and if you still hear the same sound with it disconnected, either your ballast resistor is no good and passing all 12 volts to the pump, or you have a noisy pump. Hope this helps.
I've never seen a ballast resistor short internally. Typically they crack and fail open, resulting in no voltage to the fuel pump and the engine dying once the key goes back to the run position after starting. Or someone replaced it with one of the wrong resistance and the fuel pump isn't getting enough juice.

The ballast resistor makes a great place to check if the fuel pump is getting current, btw. I measured mine recently while troubleshooting a no-start to check if the fuel pump was running. The voltage at the resistor drop to zero a few seconds after key-on and no voltage while cranking - which meant the computer wasn't seeing the cranking which led me to the CPS sensor. Once running, I had 13.5 volts on one wire, and 9.5 volts on the other (I think the resistance is somewhere around 1.2 ohms, so that makes it about 3 amps).
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Old 01-13-2020, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
Once running, I had 13.5 volts on one wire, and 9.5 volts on the other (I think the resistance is somewhere around 1.2 ohms, so that makes it about 3 amps).
Is not the formula ohms gazinta volts = amps?
Old 01-13-2020, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Is not the formula ohms gazinta volts = amps?
(4 volt drop across the resistor) / (1.2 ohms) = 3.3 amps
Old 01-13-2020, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
(4 volt drop across the resistor) / (1.2 ohms) = 3.3 amps
OIC.
Old 06-30-2020, 04:49 PM
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I've replaced a few fuel pumps in the XJ over the last 23 years. Never replaced the Ballast. I installed one fuel pump that was terribly loud all the time. It lasted about 4 years. I Installed another fuel pump two years ago and it is quiet. The only thing I hear is the initial fuel line prime when turning the key to the on position.
Here's a tip: turn the key to on position, wait for the fuel prime, then turn the key to the start position. That technique will cut out the couple extra seconds on the front end of the engine cranking over.
Old 06-30-2020, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AVjeeper
I've replaced a few fuel pumps in the XJ over the last 23 years. Never replaced the Ballast. I installed one fuel pump that was terribly loud all the time. It lasted about 4 years. I Installed another fuel pump two years ago and it is quiet. The only thing I hear is the initial fuel line prime when turning the key to the on position.
Here's a tip: turn the key to on position, wait for the fuel prime, then turn the key to the start position. That technique will cut out the couple extra seconds on the front end of the engine cranking over.
I eneded up replacing the fuel pump. The noise is gone. Makes sense now because the pump that came out was the original from the factory in 1992!!
Old 06-30-2020, 05:00 PM
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I'm guessing it was wearing out then. What once was made to tight tollerances had become a loose mess. A buzzing loose mess at that.
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