Has anyone successfully installed an external check valve on their Jeep with in tank fuel pump? My pump is leaking fuel back into the tank causing me to have to turn key on twice and I was hoping to find a solution instead of repacing the pump.
http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1163391.html

 

A common problem on XJ's. Grab a BMW inline checkvalve from your favorite parts store, they work perfectly.

 

Is there a specific part number? I did a little search and the BMW check valve is p/n 16149068988, but is no longer available. Are you saying that I can go to Autozone and ask for a BMW check valve?

 

I found a bunch of them on eBay. There is anice aluminum one that comes in three sizes: OD 3/8, 5/16, or 1/4. Where would you recommend installing it...I'm assuming as far back and close to the FP as possible. Does anyone know the size of the hose in the undercarriage right in front of the fuel tank?

 

I am also curious as to where a check valve can be placed, my fuel pump works fine I just need to install a check valve. BUT WHERE?

 

As close to the pump as possible so the fuel line stays full.

 

If I'm not mistaken the link is 3/8 ID

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys. Im sure this thread will help others too.

 

So how do you hook one of these up? Are there certain wires or something?

 

The check valve is not electric.

 

See this thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/inl...acement-87950/

 

It may just be the 2000-2001 but I think some aren't able to use the check valve. My buddie (01limited) says he hasn't been able to use it on his truck. Don't remember why.

 

For those who might find this thread. Using the BMW check valve in my 98. PDO put a GC fuel rail in it. Worked great until the fuel pressure blew out the O-ring in the fuel damper on the rail. Didn't know it until it was too late, took the 02 Sensor with it.

Bought a fuel rail without the damper to get rid of that issue, but the problem is after the engine gets good and hot, there is nothing to bleed off pressure because that check valve holds... all of it. After shutdown, believe it or not, pressure spikes to over 100 PSI. Didn't catch it right after installing it because the engine wasn't hot. First time I took a trip (supposed to be wheeling at Roktoberfest with NAXJA), the O-ring blew. See the pic. The bad part of the Oring is at the bottom.

Maybe someone with an 00/01 XJ can confirm there is a fuel damper on the rail or not. The upper O-rings at the injector /rail junction can probably hold better, the interference between the injector and rail with the O-ring is greater. Also does not push against a rubber seal like it does at the damper.

I am also thinking this is why the cheap fuel pump assemblies go out fast - first they are cheap, second, probably not designed to hold the pressures the lines see after shut down and something has to give.

I had an airtex. The check valve in that lasted about 500 miles or so. Bought a spectra. That was even worse. Had enough so I tried the BMW check valve. I will say the fuel gauge works better with the spectra. Still a POS tho.

 

The check valve fix will not work on your 98, where the fuel system has no return line.

Some have had success with using the check valve on earlier (95 and earlier where you have a fuel pressure regulator under the hood and a return line), but I personally would not try it on your 98. It has actually been linked to starting a fire on a couple of later model XJs. Search the NAXJA forum for information on this check valve and where it can work and where it CANNOT work.

As mentioned, you can replace the regulator if you want, but as long as you have the gas tank down, I usually replace the entire fuel pump assembly as when one component on that assembly is failing, the filter or pump may not be far behind. I'm not fond of doing things twice.

Do NOT use an Airtex pump! IMHO, their reliability issues are off the charts. I specifically seek out BOSCH fuel pump products; best in the business.

 

We're putting a carter (made in the USA) in. Spectra is crap too.