I know there are numerous threads about this on here but they all seem to head down the same path and I can't exactly discern my issue from it though I think it may be my starter. Here is where I am at:

1. Brand new battery showing 12.86V with a meter
2. New Big 7 battery cables
3. Clean contacts everywhere
4 Vehicle ran prior to new battery but I noticed that it became increasingly sluggish to turn over so I replace the battery. Though I had the battery tested twice and it passed, I still didn't like it. It was a marine battery with a severely faded top and I had no idea of its age. It was obvious it spent time in a boat probably powering a trolling motor.
5. I have a parasitic draw which I believe is a USB charging port that is lit and is on all the time so if I let the vehicle sit for a week, it will drain the battery somewhat and I thought maybe it was just a weak battery so I stuck my tender on there and got it back to full charge. I will check for parasitic draw later but disconnect the USB charger for now. This is a different issue but wanted to include it here.
6. I put the key in the "on" position and tried to jump the starter solenoid. Still no crank. I checked voltage at the starter and it's there.
7. I tried jiggling the shift lever and start from the neutral position, no change.

My thoughts are that the starter was "dying" evident by the slow turn over that appeared as a weak battery and now it has finally given up the ghost completely.

But I would like to hear your thoughts. Vehicle info in my signature line.

Oh, a bit of history: I have been working on this Jeep for over a year, basically rebuilding it. That includes the engine leaking oil out of most every orifice, lol. I have replaced the rear main seal, oil pan, valve cover and all the oil filter adaptor parts. Yes, the starter was soaked with oil when I removed it. I did clean the starter, but I didn't take it apart at the time since it appeared to work then.

 

you said you checked the contacts.. did you check the wires everywhere? my no crank, no starts are ALWAYS wire related.. refer to my best no start thread as exhibit recent lol

I lived in Indiana for a while, one time I tried to move out I got a job as a hotshot driver in an old ford diesel cargo van that had 750k miles on it. It had an intermittent no crank situation. I was warned about it, went through numerous batteries thinking that was the problem, and a couple starters. Well.. one day in Florida, I made my delivery and went to the walmart, came back out and no start. I didn't own the thing so we went to pep boys.. 5 mechanics - not an exaggeration- tested the battery and starter and got nothin. they took them off and tested them and they were perfect. They suggested new battery cables. we didn't purchase it and went on our way. Picked up my next load and headed to Michigan. At the company lounge, one of my coworkers and I was talking about it. He was really a mechanic and just working long enough to get a tow truck. He decided to look under the hood and grabbed some speaker wire.. the wire from the starter to the ignition went bad. never had a problem starting it again after that. exhibit first I was actually involved to the extent I was..

Shortly after exhibit recent, I took the silly Mercury to the hospital where my hubby is at. Everything seemed fine on the way there. I kind of bumped the parking block but it didn't die or act weird.. When I came back out, no crank. I got a patient visitor to give me a jump (that had been an ongoing issue) who told me to send it to the scrap yard. I called AAA and instead of a tow truck they sent me an old guy mechanic. He noticed a wire just hanging around doing nothin. Seems the starter wire is hooked up directly to the positive terminal of the battery... just not very well. Mr Mecchanic could not touch it, so I put it back on a simple area and she fired right up. the next day I wired it on better so it would not fall off again. she also has an externally mounted voltage regulator.. that goes bad all the time. check youtube for an alternative one if that becomes the problem, I saw a video.

so.. check the actual wires.. everywhere. from the starter to wherever they go.. plug wires.. etc. in that van the wire was burnt up in the harness..

 

Thanks. I can check again, but I redid all the wiring on this vehicle for the most part. I unwrapped the wire bundles during my rebuild, checked wires for cracks/breaks, cleaned them and re-wrapped them in wire loom and Tesa tape. I unplugged connectors, cleaned them with CO Contact cleaner and in some I added some dielectric grease for additional protection.

It has been sitting outside for about a month now. I'll look to see if any rodents have been in there chewing but in my examination yesterday I didn't see anything and my thoughts were if I have voltage at the starter, it shouldn't be wiring. But electrical is not a strong suit for me. Thanks again.

 

So this first part should be simple.

You said you checked voltage at the starter. The small terminal comes from the starter relay. It should have 12v with the key turned to START (trans in PARK) and zero when you release the key (RUN position). If it does, repeat START-RUN-START-RUN. If you get 12v in START consistently, you can rule out everything else in the circuit including the Ign switch, Starter Relay, NSS, associated fuses and wires.

You also said you jumped the solenoid and no crank. Does the solenoid engage when you turn the key or jump it (big CLICK!) or is it silent?

Then triple check your grounds (battery, engine block, body), your B+ (again battery and Starter). The starter itself grounds though the starter body and engine block. You may want to take the starter off to make sure the mating surface is clean (since you said it was covered in oil). Before you take it off, you can try the old "hit it with a hammer" trick. Not bash it but a few taps around the body of the starter and a couple on the solenoid. Sometimes the brushes get stuck or the arm that drives out the bendix. A few raps can sometimes jar them loose. In any event, does sound like a bad starter to me.

 

Solenoid does not move(click)

Oil is long gone from the engine (except inside where it belongs) I removed the starter when I was working on everything underneath. I did tap the solenoid and starter a few times. Didn't do anything.

I'll need a helper for the test you described above. I'll get my wife to help me this evening.

 

Ah, one more thing. The ignition wire attached to the solenoid should be in a connector that clips onto the mating connector on the solenoid itself. Make sure that connector is also clean inside and out.

There have been so many folks recently with starter issues, it's hard to keep track. One of them, after running though the whole diagnostic, discovered the connector itself was bad.

 

Good idea. I do know it's loose. Mine has the part that the wire connector attaches to screwed onto the metal "tab" on the solenoid.

 

wiring?

 

Some additional info: I just yanked the starter and tested the solenoid off the starter. It shows it's getting 12+ volts but it won't energize. I suspect that is bad if my testing methodology is correct.

Then I took the nose cone off the starter and there is a rubber seal that was in three pieces so I took the windings out. They armature and field coils are full of rust.

I think at this point, it has to be the starter. Thoughts?

 

Yeah, I think your starter (or at least the solenoid) is toast.

 

 

there are 4 conductors in metal slots, pushed by springs (brushes), one can be seen in your first pic

withdraw the armature and see if any are stuck in the holders, or worn out (99% likely)

freeing them will probably get the starter going again, with a bit of other work, but 100% I would install a new starter

When I did, the motor turns over much faster, worn starters draw more current, but put out less torque

Its tricky to get the armature back in with 4 brushes being pushed by the springs, use little bits of wood like matchsticks to relieve the springs

 

Stuck a new starter in last night. Fired right up. Has never started so good since I bought it. I checked the alternator and it's putting about approx. 14.2 volts. I'll now get back to driving it and see what comes up next.

I think the USB charge port is enough to drain the battery if I'm not daily driving it. Though it's a low draw, after a week or two it's probably enough to significantly drain the battery. I may hook it back up if I commence to driving it everyday.

Thanks everyone for your input!

 

Well done!

You can connect the USB to a switched B+ so it only powers with the key in RUN or Accessory. You can tap off the cigar lighter.