Alright, here's the deal. I've got a 98 XJ that is having issues and the gauges are not working. The illumination works, the turn signals light up, and so does the indicator for the high beams but that's it. Whenever I open the door, the noise indicating that I've left my lights on chimes whether the car is on or off (really annoying). And every once in awhile if I'm driving it above like 35mph the tac will start to flutter a little like it wants to start working. I have tried every fix I can find on these forums and still have yet to find a solution. Today I went out and spent 30 bucks on a brand new C2 harness and still no luck. Any ideas as to what I could try or what it could be are appreciated.

Here is a list of everything I've tried:

-Checked fuse
-Dialectric Grease to connectors
-Beef up connections inside connectors
-Wire in new connectors
-Wire in new ground wire
-Disconnect circuit board in overhead lamp (someone on another forum said it worked for them and i don't have the keyless entry fob so i went for it)
-Wired in brand new C2 connector

Also, yes my radio still works, the fuse hasn't blown.

 

Have you checked fuse F9 in the JB?

 

98 JB:

 

Yes, the fuse is good and secure. What is the likelihood that the problem is in the dash cluster itself and not the connectors? I'm not really sure what else to try other than just picking up another cluster unit altogether and plugging that in.

 

There is a possibility that the instrument cluster is bad, but first try this:


Unplug the CPS connector and turn the ignition switch to RUN, then see if the voltmeter and the fuel quantity gauge work.

 

Few questions/comments (inserted in your post).

 

Have you tried the Instrument Cluster Actuator Test?




Instrument Cluster Actuator Test



(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.


(2) Depress the trip odometer reset button.


(3) While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On (RUN) position, but do not start the engine.


(4) Release the trip odometer reset button.


(5) The gauges should cycle through their ranges, stopping at intermediate readings, going up and going down, at two second intervals. The indicator lamps should cycle on and off.


(6) The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.

 

I tried dialelectric grease because it was recommended on the forums and seemed to be a solution for many people. I beefed up the connections by taking a few small pieces of copper wire, bundling them up, and placing those in the connector as a way to try and increase contact with the pins (specifically the ground on connector c2). I tried running a new ground to where I had grounded my subs (way back when) in a effort to ensure that it wasn't an issue with the g108 ground as I was up at school and did not have a multimeter with me. Also, when you say CPS do you mean the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor? I've had people use the same acronym for both. I also just went through and checked all of my wiring/voltages to rule out any possibility of error on my part while installing the harnesses.

 

Yes I tried the instrument cluster actuator test, but nothing happened.

 

Just unplugged the crankshaft position sensor (i assume thats what you're referring to) and got nothing on the voltmeter or fuel gauge.

 

Have you had times where you have had a lot of moisture in the cab, like in and out with mud/snow on your feet, etc...? Strange question, I know, but I had a 94 XJ and it had all sorts of electrical problems, the cluster being one of them. I ended up taking the entire fuse panel out and the back was horribly corroded.

I gave it a solvent bath and used brushes to clean it up. Was pretty time consuming but I put it back together and never had another problem with electronics, on its account.

 

Yeah (I live in Michigan so we get pretty humid summers and freezing winters) and originally when this started happening it would happen when it rained or I had snow sitting on the car that would then melt. However it didn't always do that and now it's become a permanent issue where I haven't had gauges for a few months. I have voltage (not sure what it should be reading but it was pretty solid) at the connectors so I don't think it would be an issue with the fuse panel. If I can't figure anything else out then maybe I'll try it as a last resort kind of thing but judging by the fact that I have power going to the gauges I wouldn't think that would be it.

 

Replace the instrument cluster.


Minus the dielectric grease and the beef up wires.