Gear ratio
#16
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I had 31s with 3.73 ratio. Always wished I had 4.10s.
#17
Seasoned Member
So Steve, if you can get both 4.10 axles from a junked 2.1 diesel XJ,
they would work well with the 4.0. Before you buy the axles, make sure
they are 4.10, as the other men have posted already.
Since you have a D35 now, if the new axle you get is a Chrysler 8.25, you
will perhaps need to shorten your driveshaft about 2.5 cm. Also, if you have
ABS on your Jeep now, ABS cannot work with the 8.25.
Here is a link in Italia that is very useful :
http://www.duriepuri.com/index.asp?id=187&idopen=187
,
they would work well with the 4.0. Before you buy the axles, make sure
they are 4.10, as the other men have posted already.
Since you have a D35 now, if the new axle you get is a Chrysler 8.25, you
will perhaps need to shorten your driveshaft about 2.5 cm. Also, if you have
ABS on your Jeep now, ABS cannot work with the 8.25.
Here is a link in Italia that is very useful :
http://www.duriepuri.com/index.asp?id=187&idopen=187
,
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cruiser54 (03-13-2021)
#19
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So Steve, if you can get both 4.10 axles from a junked 2.1 diesel XJ,
they would work well with the 4.0. Before you buy the axles, make sure
they are 4.10, as the other men have posted already.
Since you have a D35 now, if the new axle you get is a Chrysler 8.25, you
will perhaps need to shorten your driveshaft about 2.5 cm. Also, if you have
ABS on your Jeep now, ABS cannot work with the 8.25.
Here is a link in Italia that is very useful :
http://www.duriepuri.com/index.asp?id=187&idopen=187
,
they would work well with the 4.0. Before you buy the axles, make sure
they are 4.10, as the other men have posted already.
Since you have a D35 now, if the new axle you get is a Chrysler 8.25, you
will perhaps need to shorten your driveshaft about 2.5 cm. Also, if you have
ABS on your Jeep now, ABS cannot work with the 8.25.
Here is a link in Italia that is very useful :
http://www.duriepuri.com/index.asp?id=187&idopen=187
,
I raised my xj 3.5 inches and I haven't changed the driveshaft yet (I talked about it in another threa
), and if I found an axles chrisler my situation could improve (?).
I will carefully visit the website you indicated to me, I did not know it.
my xj '90 no longer has the abs (it had the bendix system which I eliminated, I fitted the grand cherokee brake booster and rear disc brakes).
#20
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Year: 1990
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With a 3.5 inch lift, your current driveshaft will work just fine.
#21
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
will it work fine with the chrysler 8.25, no modification needed?
because now, as you see in the photo, it's short ....
I have another doubt: all the parts I used for the rear disc brake conversion, are they bolt on on the Chrysler 8.25?
because now, as you see in the photo, it's short ....
I have another doubt: all the parts I used for the rear disc brake conversion, are they bolt on on the Chrysler 8.25?
#23
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Year: 1990
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The 8.25's input is longer than the 35. so, yes!!
#24
Seasoned Member
The brake parts will all work, except for the backing plates that hold the brakes,
you will need to enlarge the center hole diameter. Just use a grinder to remove
4mm all around.
The larger 8.25 axle tube also uses bigger u-bolts than the D35 to hold the springs.
You can buy new ones, I suppose. I just took my D35 u-bolts to a local blacksmith who
heated them and made the gap wider to fit over the 8.25 tube.
#25
CF Veteran
do you think that 31's on D35 w/Factory LSD with 3.55 is just not advised under any condition? I'm sitting on 235s now, but they are on their way out...and wanted to go a little larger, but dont want to have to mess with re-gearing to do so.
Do you really lose that much staying at that ratio on say 31s?
Do you really lose that much staying at that ratio on say 31s?
#26
CF Veteran
The 8.25 has a 3 inch axle tube, bigger than the D35 tube which is 2.75 inch.
The brake parts will all work, except for the backing plates that hold the brakes,
you will need to enlarge the center hole diameter. Just use a grinder to remove
4mm all around.
The larger 8.25 axle tube also uses bigger u-bolts than the D35 to hold the springs.
You can buy new ones, I suppose. I just took my D35 u-bolts to a local blacksmith who
heated them and made the gap wider to fit over the 8.25 tube.
The brake parts will all work, except for the backing plates that hold the brakes,
you will need to enlarge the center hole diameter. Just use a grinder to remove
4mm all around.
The larger 8.25 axle tube also uses bigger u-bolts than the D35 to hold the springs.
You can buy new ones, I suppose. I just took my D35 u-bolts to a local blacksmith who
heated them and made the gap wider to fit over the 8.25 tube.
#28
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The 8.25 has a 3 inch axle tube, bigger than the D35 tube which is 2.75 inch.
The brake parts will all work, except for the backing plates that hold the brakes,
you will need to enlarge the center hole diameter. Just use a grinder to remove
4mm all around.
The larger 8.25 axle tube also uses bigger u-bolts than the D35 to hold the springs.
You can buy new ones, I suppose. I just took my D35 u-bolts to a local blacksmith who
heated them and made the gap wider to fit over the 8.25 tube.
The brake parts will all work, except for the backing plates that hold the brakes,
you will need to enlarge the center hole diameter. Just use a grinder to remove
4mm all around.
The larger 8.25 axle tube also uses bigger u-bolts than the D35 to hold the springs.
You can buy new ones, I suppose. I just took my D35 u-bolts to a local blacksmith who
heated them and made the gap wider to fit over the 8.25 tube.
#29
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
do you think that 31's on D35 w/Factory LSD with 3.55 is just not advised under any condition? I'm sitting on 235s now, but they are on their way out...and wanted to go a little larger, but dont want to have to mess with re-gearing to do so.
Do you really lose that much staying at that ratio on say 31s?
Do you really lose that much staying at that ratio on say 31s?
#30
Seasoned Member
so I'll put them on the list to ask about.
The U-bolts I have now are long ones (brand ProComp) that I bought
maybe 10 years ago in the US. I have changed the spring pack (broken
springs, added leaves) several times, so they have been loosened and
tightened maybe six or eight times. They are holding up so far and get lots
of rough use. I have seen it written that they should be replaced every time
they are removed, but I have never seen a forum post about broken U-bolts,
so I assume that is very rare. If I ever break one, I'll have to post it. The Jeep
passes the govt inspection every year and I refuse to give the inspectors a bribe.