cruiser54

Sounds like a "Hint from Heloise" but it works.

1976gmc20

I was thinking: "Shaken, not stirred." [/Bond]

chrispl57

I think I found part of my problem.

#1 the radiator had a huge hole in the back.
#2 the water pump was missing the big metal tube that comes off and had this little nubby thing in its place that was halfway threaded in then siliconed to death so I cant get it off.


Anyone know what part that is and where I can get one?

cruiser54

Napa for about $12.

chrispl57

The whole system is in!

Some problems though. First is I am leaking at the temp stat so have to redo that. Leaking stopped after a bit though. Also I had coolant pourning out the rad when I was bleeding the system is that normal?

Also temp hit 210 on the gauge could be off don't have an IR to check. Hoses where HOT but never felt coolant go through them (may have missed when it did)


Gonna let it cool off top off the coolant and put the cap on and see what happens this time.

chrispl57

Small update:
Ok so I get what you meant about burping the system I squeezed the tubes. Definitely felt the coolant this time. When I turned it off and pulled the cap coolant shot out with a bulrbp noise. Running @ 220* in my driveway now witch seems high to me.

Didnt replace fan clutch and checked it, it is running at full speed.

Leaking trans fluid when running not sure where yet since its a liquid mess under the jeep. Looks to be the drivers side I am gonna check it out during the week after everything dries. Also dripping a little on top of the water pump. Cant tell if its the Tstat or waterpump. Also gonna check that out sometime soon I'm done tinkering until the end of the week. Gonna grab another bottle of coolant too need to top it off after all the spewing. Should I put some in the reservoir also?

cruiser54

Fis the thermostat housing leak. Fill the reservoir to the proper line.

How old is that cap?

chrispl57

Yea the houseing is leaking gonna have to take it off and pop annother gasket on.

The radiator cap? It's brand new

Cheddarnut

Be sure and scrape off all the old gasket material, it sounds like you've swapped a few parts and stuff is still leaking. No harm in using some RTV gasket maker to make a tight seal.

freegdr

Replace the fan clutch....

missiericker

I was slow on the uptake, studied my "hot at idle" issue on my 95 Cherokee Sport for 3 months, lucky i didn't damage my block. In the end, a simple thread on another Jeep Forum and a youtube video on testing my electric fan fixed my issue. When I tried step 1: start vehicle with A/C on and check electric fan for operation I knew I was on to it, the fan didn't turn. Step 2: Check Fan fuse, the fuse was blown, hmm Step 3: replace fuse, check fan again- fan ran wobbly and fuse popped in seconds.
The bearing was out on the fan causing it to not engage when engine reached temp or A/C compressor was running.
Fan was $85 new, $50 used at salvage yard, took me 10 minutes to undo 4 bolts, pop off plug and yank that sucker out, the new one took 5 to squeeze down in the spot and fasten in place.
All better.
It was so simple I never considered it, duh. Apparently very common though. The clutch fan kept me "OK" at running temps but idling it just can't do it alone and in traffic I had some real nervous moments of creeping into the red and listening to the boiling hiss.

chrispl57

I was sure the scrape it clean. Spent a good 30min making sure it was smooth. Waiting for a new gasket to put on.

As for the fan clutch I can't get the bugger off. Tried a screwdriver to keep it still and everything. Was able to break 2 bolts free but the other 2 are being stubborn.

As for the electric fan it's running at full speed and runs the whole time after the jeep heats up due to the high temp.

extrashaky

You can try using a box-end wrench instead of a screwdriver. If you mess around with it a bit, you can figure out how to put a box end on a bolt you're NOT trying to remove and wedge the shaft of the wrench against another bolt you're NOT trying to remove to hold everything in place. Then put cheater bars on that wrench and the wrench you're using to remove one of the stuck bolts to get more leverage. It gives you a lot more secure hold on everything than using a screwdriver.

Also, ETA:

There are really only two ways to reliably test the fan clutch. One is to remove it and replace it, and if your problem is solved, you know it had failed. The other is to remove it, move the spring 180° so that the fan clutch is locked and always turning, then put it back on. But that test is generally pointless because if you have to fight with it to remove it anyway, you might as well replace the stupid thing and be done with it. Some of them also come with epoxy on the spring, further complicating that test.

The various tests that involve turning, spinning, staring at, grabbing, listening to or tasting the fan clutch while it's on the truck are not reliable.