downs

Threres' no picture that I can see.

Saygoodbye41

00t444e

You'll probaby have to cut the flange bolts, and the bolt on the front you can heat it up and hammer a 12 point socket on it.

Saygoodbye41

Kk. Ty! Also... I think the kit it came with came with new bolts for it? It was the headers, gasket and I'm assuming the bolts and nuts were for this?

third coast

You want to be very careful on that front stud. There is one near the firewall that is similar. An External Torx socket is the proper tool that fits the stud head, I don't recall what size. They can be a bit hard to find but get a quality set. The nut I believe is 1/2". If you break the stud you will regret starting this project and you may have to pull the head off to repair it. Don’t expect the manifold to seal without the studs and corresponding nut properly torqued to spec. Very carefully try taking the stud out. The threads in the block are less prone to rusting in place than the nut. Put some penetrating oil on it a few times over 24 hours. Don't use an impact on the stud. Using only moderate force try alternately tightening and loosening the stud a very little bit at a time till it turns easily. If the stud will not break free try the nut again after wire brushing the exposed stud threads and soaking in penetrating fluid. Use a 6 point socket to have more griping surface on the nut. If the nut is in really bad shape you might try tapping a 12 mm six point metric socket onto the nut. That is the closest smaller size socket typically available. File a bit off the flats if necessary.

If you get the studs out replace them with new ones. Chrysler has them for about $4 each. You can find them elsewhere but get one that is Mopar OE. Manifold to collector pipe bolts are also available.

On the manifold to collector flange nuts try to hold the flange with a vice grip. Clean up threads with a wire brush. Some heat or a day of soaking with penetrating fluid should help.

Saygoodbye41

Thanks for that. I have been using pb blaster on them all. Im sure I'll be able to get the manifold stud out. What do I do with I guess its called the collector flange bolts? Didn't look like any socket I had fit at all. I have Visa grips but just not sure what I need to get those off. Everything came off rather easily up to this point

third coast

I didn't see in your profile what year your Jeep is. On my 2000 the manifold to collector bolt heads are 15mm - just checked an old one that I know was original. I suggest getting new Chrysler bolts as the heads appear taller than standard bolts which helps keep a socket on the head as you are working underneath at an odd angle. The other end has a reduced diameter lead in which is also helpful in blind applications. New bolts are Chrysler P/N 6505754AA. Yours looks to be a CA emissions setup but it should use the same bolt. I could not find the nuts with the flange that helps keep the nut from spinning so try to salvage the existing. That flange is where you would clamp it down with a small vice grip if it wants to spin on removal.

An E8 (external Torx) socket fits the head of the two studs at each end. Mine came out very easily. I think the nut that goes on the stud is ½” but I can’t be certain now. Chrysler part number for new studs is 6036193AA. Again I highly recommend replacing the studs.

For the manifold bolts use 14mm or 9/16". They are SAE bolts but select the best fit.

Regarding your photo: If you have not already done so I suggest carefully cleaning out leading edges of the intake ports and then placing rags in each to keep debris out while you do the other work.

You really should torque the manifold bolts down to spec to ensure a proper seal. It is almost impossible to get a torque wrench with socket straight onto all of the bolts. If you need suggestions on how to properly do this let me know.

Saygoodbye41

Thanks for this and I have a 2000.
Ok, Ill heed your advice for the manifold part and everything but regarding the flange.... I need to come from the bottom for the flange bolts and not from the top... use the vise grip to stop from spinning...

I would love to hear your suggestions on how to properly seal the manifold. Dont wanna have to do this anytime soon again!

third coast

Yes, put the wrench on the nut or clamp the nut flange with a vice grip on the top to keep nut from spinning. Use a 15mm socket (deep socket may work best) from the bottom with a couple of long extensions. Work the bolt cockwise and counterclockwise a bit at a time until it is off.

Yes, you don't want to do this more than once. Could you include a photo of the new gasket you have? I believe the best gaskets are similar to what is on there now. I used a Mahle gasket that is like the original. It should be a multilayer metal gasket with sealing material outlining ports. NOTE: I did mine when the head was being replaced so I was able to torque all the fasteners off the vehicle - much easier. To do it right you will need a torque wrench and a special 9/16" and possibly a 1/2" (for nuts on the studs - verify the size) torque adapter. I used the following: Proto J5118 9/16" 12 pt x 3/8 drive x 2" L torque wrench adapter. 1/2" adapter if needed is Proto J5116. They are about $13 each and are a very high quality made in USA tool. I ordered these from Zoro.com. More info on the torque procedure later.

third coast

One more important item: Keep track of the original dished washers used between manifold bolt heads and the manifold. These are critical in maintaining the proper load on bolts to keep the manifolds tight to the head. You need to reuse them even if you have new washers with your kit, which I expect are not dished. I could not find replacement dished washers anywhere, including from Chrysler.

third coast

Link below should take you to a previous post I did for manifold bolt torque procedure. You will probalby have a few questions - let me know.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...2/#post3470832

third coast

Prior info I posted on those manifold washers. Hope this helps.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...3/#post3471401