Go to affordable non performance header?
#18
CF Veteran
You'll probaby have to cut the flange bolts, and the bolt on the front you can heat it up and hammer a 12 point socket on it.
#20
Senior Member
Hey guys, I'm in the middle of taking off my header but well, here's a picture of what I'm having an issue with. The front most bolt I think is stripped and I'm not sure how to approach getting it off and I have no idea how to get the 4 bolts off the flange as indicated by the pictures. None of my sockets fit!
If you get the studs out replace them with new ones. Chrysler has them for about $4 each. You can find them elsewhere but get one that is Mopar OE. Manifold to collector pipe bolts are also available.
On the manifold to collector flange nuts try to hold the flange with a vice grip. Clean up threads with a wire brush. Some heat or a day of soaking with penetrating fluid should help.
#21
Junior Member
Thanks for that. I have been using pb blaster on them all. Im sure I'll be able to get the manifold stud out. What do I do with I guess its called the collector flange bolts? Didn't look like any socket I had fit at all. I have Visa grips but just not sure what I need to get those off. Everything came off rather easily up to this point
#22
Senior Member
Thanks for that. I have been using pb blaster on them all. Im sure I'll be able to get the manifold stud out. What do I do with I guess its called the collector flange bolts? Didn't look like any socket I had fit at all. I have Visa grips but just not sure what I need to get those off. Everything came off rather easily up to this point
An E8 (external Torx) socket fits the head of the two studs at each end. Mine came out very easily. I think the nut that goes on the stud is ½” but I can’t be certain now. Chrysler part number for new studs is 6036193AA. Again I highly recommend replacing the studs.
For the manifold bolts use 14mm or 9/16". They are SAE bolts but select the best fit.
Regarding your photo: If you have not already done so I suggest carefully cleaning out leading edges of the intake ports and then placing rags in each to keep debris out while you do the other work.
You really should torque the manifold bolts down to spec to ensure a proper seal. It is almost impossible to get a torque wrench with socket straight onto all of the bolts. If you need suggestions on how to properly do this let me know.
Last edited by third coast; 11-30-2018 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Added 9/16" to manifold bolt head size. Bolts are SAE
#23
Junior Member
Thanks for this and I have a 2000.
Ok, Ill heed your advice for the manifold part and everything but regarding the flange.... I need to come from the bottom for the flange bolts and not from the top... use the vise grip to stop from spinning...
I would love to hear your suggestions on how to properly seal the manifold. Dont wanna have to do this anytime soon again!
Ok, Ill heed your advice for the manifold part and everything but regarding the flange.... I need to come from the bottom for the flange bolts and not from the top... use the vise grip to stop from spinning...
I would love to hear your suggestions on how to properly seal the manifold. Dont wanna have to do this anytime soon again!
#24
Senior Member
Thanks for this and I have a 2000.
Ok, Ill heed your advice for the manifold part and everything but regarding the flange.... I need to come from the bottom for the flange bolts and not from the top... use the vise grip to stop from spinning...
I would love to hear your suggestions on how to properly seal the manifold. Dont wanna have to do this anytime soon again!
Ok, Ill heed your advice for the manifold part and everything but regarding the flange.... I need to come from the bottom for the flange bolts and not from the top... use the vise grip to stop from spinning...
I would love to hear your suggestions on how to properly seal the manifold. Dont wanna have to do this anytime soon again!
Yes, you don't want to do this more than once. Could you include a photo of the new gasket you have? I believe the best gaskets are similar to what is on there now. I used a Mahle gasket that is like the original. It should be a multilayer metal gasket with sealing material outlining ports. NOTE: I did mine when the head was being replaced so I was able to torque all the fasteners off the vehicle - much easier. To do it right you will need a torque wrench and a special 9/16" and possibly a 1/2" (for nuts on the studs - verify the size) torque adapter. I used the following: Proto J5118 9/16" 12 pt x 3/8 drive x 2" L torque wrench adapter. 1/2" adapter if needed is Proto J5116. They are about $13 each and are a very high quality made in USA tool. I ordered these from Zoro.com. More info on the torque procedure later.
#25
Senior Member
One more important item: Keep track of the original dished washers used between manifold bolt heads and the manifold. These are critical in maintaining the proper load on bolts to keep the manifolds tight to the head. You need to reuse them even if you have new washers with your kit, which I expect are not dished. I could not find replacement dished washers anywhere, including from Chrysler.
#26
Senior Member
Link below should take you to a previous post I did for manifold bolt torque procedure. You will probalby have a few questions - let me know.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...2/#post3470832
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...2/#post3470832
#27
Senior Member
Prior info I posted on those manifold washers. Hope this helps.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...3/#post3471401
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...3/#post3471401
Last edited by third coast; 12-01-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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