Be gone, oil leaks!!
12-14-2011, 08:07 PM
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0
Be gone, oil leaks!!
How tough is it to rebuild the oil sending unit? I'm gonna be doing my rear main seal, valve cover seal, and possibly the sending unit this Christmas break. TIA
12-14-2011, 09:35 PM
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Before you charge into that rear main you want to make sure hardened O rings on the oil filter mount aren't letting oil blow back and drip off the bell-housing, mimicking a bad rear main. Also make sure that rear CCV on the valve cover is sucking. 
/\ Oil filter mount.
/\ Oil filter mount.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-14-2011 at 09:40 PM.
12-14-2011, 11:12 PM
#6
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Year: 1990
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Before you charge into that rear main you want to make sure hardened O rings on the oil filter mount aren't letting oil blow back and drip off the bell-housing, mimicking a bad rear main. Also make sure that rear CCV on the valve cover is sucking.
/\ Oil filter mount.
/\ Oil filter mount.
12-15-2011, 12:14 AM
#7
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Year: 90,84
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Wish I'd have seen this before I did mine; (adapter)
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/mo...er-renix-1385/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/mo...er-renix-1385/
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12-15-2011, 12:27 PM
#8
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Laredo
"How tough is it to rebuild the oil sending unit?"
If you mean the oil pump, it's very simple.. oil pump rebuild kits are fairly cheap. I did mine on a '93 GC Laredo and the gauge actually showed higher oil pressure. You might not need all the parts in the kit, i.e. there was a piece that required pulling off the sump tube to replace if I recall right.. I didn't do that part. Also, there was an o-ring for where the pump attached to the bottom of the engine.. Mine didn't have one originally, so I didn't use that either. or did I?
2 piece rear main seal? What a piece of cake! After reading all the "how awful it is to change them" articles here & there, I was pretty worried.. Turned out to be the easiest part of the whole job.. Wigglin' the oil pan out (ended up removing the oil pump to get the pan out) lining up the gasket on the pan while trying to re-install the pump with about 3" of space to do it.. blah blah.. Look at me, what am I doin' here writin' a book?
Just have fun with it!
If you mean the oil pump, it's very simple.. oil pump rebuild kits are fairly cheap. I did mine on a '93 GC Laredo and the gauge actually showed higher oil pressure. You might not need all the parts in the kit, i.e. there was a piece that required pulling off the sump tube to replace if I recall right.. I didn't do that part. Also, there was an o-ring for where the pump attached to the bottom of the engine.. Mine didn't have one originally, so I didn't use that either. or did I?
2 piece rear main seal? What a piece of cake! After reading all the "how awful it is to change them" articles here & there, I was pretty worried.. Turned out to be the easiest part of the whole job.. Wigglin' the oil pan out (ended up removing the oil pump to get the pan out) lining up the gasket on the pan while trying to re-install the pump with about 3" of space to do it.. blah blah.. Look at me, what am I doin' here writin' a book?
Just have fun with it!
12-15-2011, 04:03 PM
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do the repairs on all the other oil leaks before doing the RMS. I wouldn't be surprised if the RMS is in fact not leaking as Flintstone suggests.
12-15-2011, 07:05 PM
#11
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Also, Do I need to get the engine up to temp for the VC bolts to come off? I tried torquing one to 55in-lbs and it snapped right off!
But to my surprise I'm not leaking oil and it's NOT empty! 
12-15-2011, 08:19 PM
#12
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Year: 1990
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What about the oil filter adapter seals?
Valve cover bolts don't care if they're hot or cold, just not over-tightened.
Valve cover bolts don't care if they're hot or cold, just not over-tightened.
