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grinding down distributor to adjust timing???

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Old 11-24-2010 | 09:41 PM
  #16  
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slot the holes the screws go through that hold the cap to the dizzy so you can twist it seperatly
Old 11-24-2010 | 09:47 PM
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I just want my 4.0 to perform as best as it can right now.

Its stock right now but im going to uprage to tje newer style intake mani. And i have 703's injectors on it right now. What junkyard parts will help me for this??? Im 16 so i dont have alot of mony.
Old 11-24-2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Desert Rat
Trust me, that post was not useless.
I didn't mean to start a , I was just trying to help a guy out, its a valid question that I asked a while back. I agree though, some people still think you can just crank the dizzy around to adjust timing. It took me about two nights of searching and reading to put all the pieces together on how the cam postion sensor, CPS, ECU, knock sensor and dizzy affect timing.

Originally Posted by alloutperform
the shaft that connects the rotor to the drive gear is solid and floats in the body of the dizzy (as it is known across the pond) that is fixed to the cap if you turn the body it is doing the same thing
That will adjust the timing for maybe a few seconds, but once the ECU processes that the timing isn't where IT wants it to be, it will either retard or advance it to stock settings. Its not a normal dizzy, I had to put aside everything I knew about timing when learning how this system works.
Old 11-24-2010 | 09:57 PM
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You can not advance or retard the timeing on a 4.0 by moveing the dizzy,its all computer controled,in short the timeing is fixed.
Old 11-24-2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by EVcherokee
I didn't mean to start a , I was just trying to help a guy out, its a valid question that I asked a while back. I agree though, some people still think you can just crank the dizzy around to adjust timing. It took me about two nights of searching and reading to put all the pieces together on how the cam postion sensor, CPS, ECU, knock sensor and dizzy affect timing.



That will adjust the timing for maybe a few seconds, but once the ECU processes that the timing isn't where IT wants it to be, it will either retard or advance it to stock settings. Its not a normal dizzy, I had to put aside everything I knew about timing when learning how this system works.
No worries, I probably should have tried sharing some info before I chose to act like a dick. My apologies.
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:03 PM
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Perhaps I'm failing to think outside of the box, but, would'nt manipulating the distributor cap not just be a means of bypassing a problem rather than actually fixing the underlying problem? It's my understanding that timing is controlled by the ecu. By modifying the cap you would be doing nothing more than masking the real problem would'nt you?
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jeepsnhondas
ok thanks but how do i slot the cap?? just let me know what to do. thanks
Slotting the cap willn't do anything either. period.

If you want better performance and your on a budget, do a search for "budget XJ upgrades" Theres a ton out there. Also theres tons of JY mods you can do too. Everything from suspension lifts, to cooling and electric fan upgrades, to injector upgrades to name a few. googles your friend. We're more than willing to help you out, just look for the answers first.
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:12 PM
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read into it...to save some face i apologize.. my theory was correct but i did not realize it would adjust to the extent it does...
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:13 PM
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.
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:13 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Desert Rat
Perhaps I'm failing to think outside of the box, but, would'nt manipulating the distributor cap not just be a means of bypassing a problem rather than actually fixing the underlying problem? It's my understanding that timing is controlled by the ecu. By modifying the cap you would be doing nothing more than masking the real problem would'nt you?
Yeah your not masking the problem just creating a couple.

The ECU is still going to fire the spark when it wants to, so if the cap is turn forward or back, its just going to make the spark jump further reducing its effectiveness at the plug due to a weak spark. You also run into the possibility of cross fires due to ionization in the cap(spark scatter). Thats why caps have a vent, but when the spark is exposed to more air, the more ionization occurs. Not to mention, how many caps is the average joe gonna f-up in the process of slotting the holes..
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:18 PM
  #26  
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instead of creating a spark through grounding through the plugs it fires if its ready or not and will just jump to its shortest distance to ground.. correct?
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
read into it...to save some face i apologize.. my theory was correct but i did not realize it would adjust to the extent it does...
No worries, like I said, I was beating my head on the keyboard for two nights trying to make heads and tails on how this system works. In the end I realized its really really stubborn and really set in it ways. Thats why I'm getting rid of it.
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
instead of creating a spark through grounding through the plugs it fires if its ready or not and will just jump to its shortest distance to ground.. correct?
Possibly, but I don't think the stock system put out enough volts to jump to the dizzy body...another reason why I'm going to a duraspark setup...the 65K volt upgrade!
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:25 PM
  #29  
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see this is class now... i get a coil pack type ignition and an electronic distributor type ignition as well dare i say points...this seems to be somewhere between
Old 11-24-2010 | 10:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
see this is class now... i get a coil pack type ignition and an electronic distributor type ignition as well dare i say points...this seems to be somewhere between
Ya lost me


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