Grinding noise from rear brakes when I start driving
#1
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My drums are in great condition, I rebuilt both of them a few months ago, and inspected them again recently. But they still make a grinding noise the first few times I brake after I start driving. Could this be from a bad adjustment? I tried to readjust them today but it didn't fix it. It's driving me a little crazy. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated
#3
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Year: 1990
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What method did you use to adjust the brake shoes?
#4
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Are the drums new?
If not, were they de-ridged or turned?
Are the drums warped?
Is it one or both?
Is there a visible point of contact?
Did you leave the adjustment tool in there?
If not, were they de-ridged or turned?
Are the drums warped?
Is it one or both?
Is there a visible point of contact?
Did you leave the adjustment tool in there?
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#6
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I elevated both wheels, took wheels off on both side, and then only had the drum on the side I was adjusting. Then I slowly moved the adjuster until I could hear a low scrape when I put the drum on and I turned it. Is there a tool I can use?
#7
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They are older, they may have been replaced by a shop a few years ago but I think they only did the shoes. I am not sure if they are deridged or turned, what is that? It's hard to tell if it is one or both. There is a normal visible point of contact on the drums, the pads are brand new so it is hard to tell on them, but I checked again on nothing is scraping or wearing that shouldn't be. And what is the adjustment tool? I've been doing it by ear
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#8
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The wheels need to be on. Tighten the adjusters tight to seat the shoes, then loosen until the drum just clears the shoes while turning the wheel. You may need to hold the locking tab for the star open with a thin screwdriver. Use an official brake adjuster. Some are better than others.
#9
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"Turning" the drum entails machining the drum to make it true. There is a limit to how much it can be turned (including wear) it'll be tamped on the drum. The cost of turning isn't as competitive as it used to be.
A ridge develops on the outside of the inner drum where the shoes are not in contact. It's what makes it hard to get the drum off. It's mostly rust. I just carefully remove it with a right angle grinder. Close enough for government work.
A ridge develops on the outside of the inner drum where the shoes are not in contact. It's what makes it hard to get the drum off. It's mostly rust. I just carefully remove it with a right angle grinder. Close enough for government work.
#10
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"Turning" the drum entails machining the drum to make it true. There is a limit to how much it can be turned (including wear) it'll be tamped on the drum. The cost of turning isn't as competitive as it used to be.
A ridge develops on the outside of the inner drum where the shoes are not in contact. It's what makes it hard to get the drum off. It's mostly rust. I just carefully remove it with a right angle grinder. Close enough for government work.
A ridge develops on the outside of the inner drum where the shoes are not in contact. It's what makes it hard to get the drum off. It's mostly rust. I just carefully remove it with a right angle grinder. Close enough for government work.
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