Guess I'm in the market for a new vehicle...
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 958
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Guess I'm in the market for a new vehicle...
Stick a fork in it, it's done.
Looking for the source of a rattle from the rear, didn't take long at all to find it. This is the right side frame rail just above the axle.
Looking for the source of a rattle from the rear, didn't take long at all to find it. This is the right side frame rail just above the axle.
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 35
From: Colorado
Year: 1991 2-Door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Rotten
Yeah time to go shipping! Good luck on your search.
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#8
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 958
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You guys are tempting me. I do NOT like the idea of being without a Cherokee.
But the question is... where else is it that bad?
But the question is... where else is it that bad?
#9
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 777
Likes: 5
From: Nolensville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm relatively new here so I don't really know much about your rig, but if you've put a lot of work into it then I'd say full frame stiffeners and keep it. But if it's more of a daily then just get another one and part this one out.
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Count the bad spots, and see if you want to save it.
Assuming you remove any seats, carpet, insulation above the area(time=labor=money) before bringing it in, if I was doing it at our shop, that spot in the pic would be about a $350 repair.
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
This is good, but you HAVE to fix the problem first. Rust is cancer, remove it ALL, or it just keeps spreading.
#14
I really can't believe how thin the uni-body frame rails are in the first place. When I cut away the entire floor to make my camper. Seeing just how thin the material is, I realized how important frame stiffeners are for us who want to do any of the more difficult trails.
The great thing about uni-body construction is that it allows you to achieve a relatively high strength and stiffness chassis with thin-walled structural sections. Which allows you great weight savings. They will never be as stiff as fully boxed frames, but then again a fully boxed frame will never achieve the weight savings that a uni-body does. As with all vehicle designs, it's a balance of tradeoffs.
The fact that XJs were produced for 17 years and are still popular 15 years after production ended speaks well to the good design decisions made. Overall the XJ is an excellent balance of design and performance tradeoffs.
Unfortunately for OP, one of the weaknesses of the XJ uni-body is rust. Rust kills thin walled structures. I hope after assessing the situation, OP can indeed get the rust out and frame welded back up.
#15
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 958
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Good observation. I have wondered about that myself. The other side is headed down the same road, but it's nowhere near as far gone. It seems to have started at the bump stop mounts, judging by what I see on the other side.
Driver's side rear wheelwell.
I do have a bit of rocker panel rust, but it's minor. Yes, I know it needs to be dealth with. I mention that because the rust distribution on this Jeep is really weird. The tow hitch is just shot.
This tow hitch is done!
Up front, there isn't any rust. It's all in the back.