Had the dealer replace my rear main seal, now oil pressure sucks. what to look 4
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Had the dealer replace my rear main seal, now oil pressure sucks. what to look 4
So a week ago, I had the dealer replace my rear main...now my oil pressure is like 20 down the freeway and sometimes a 0 at a stop light! Valve clatter has happened too. I'm taking it back but they say "I dont see the relation between the rear main seal and your oil pressure going bad..."
Ideas?
Ideas?
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
put a mech gauge on it... and see if your guage is faulty.... or they put thinner oil in it... most chrysler cars take 5-20 now...
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#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
update;
Ran some sea foam then changed the oil and filter this morning. Put my usual 10w40 in it. Oil pressure was great!! It was great until I drove 20 miles then creeap creap down to under 40psi while going 75 mph on fwy. Got off fwy to go to bank, barely above 0psi at light. Accelerating from a stop and clack clack clack, my valve train sounded like a diesel....crap.
What could the dealer have done?
Is this symptoms of a bad oil pump?
Related to something they could have done changing the rear main??
?????????????
Should I drive it until it blows or is there hope?
Ran some sea foam then changed the oil and filter this morning. Put my usual 10w40 in it. Oil pressure was great!! It was great until I drove 20 miles then creeap creap down to under 40psi while going 75 mph on fwy. Got off fwy to go to bank, barely above 0psi at light. Accelerating from a stop and clack clack clack, my valve train sounded like a diesel....crap.
What could the dealer have done?
Is this symptoms of a bad oil pump?
Related to something they could have done changing the rear main??
?????????????
Should I drive it until it blows or is there hope?
#9
Well, one way of removing the oil pan involves removing the oil pump.
From the factory service manual:
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
What if it wasn't reinstalled correctly?
From the factory service manual:
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
What if it wasn't reinstalled correctly?
#12
I recommend you take it back to them and have them fix it. You paid good money to get it done, they are responsible. Who knows what the dealer did correct/incorrect. You shouldn't be responsible for their screw-ups. Good luck man.
I too run 10w-40 in everything I drive. The lower viscosity junk is 'greenie' lower emission garbage.
I too run 10w-40 in everything I drive. The lower viscosity junk is 'greenie' lower emission garbage.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 719
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From: Bel Air, Maryland 21015
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Don't drive it anywhere .... have it towed to the dealer.
Talk to the dealer OWNER and not just the guys in Service.
The guys in service are gonna cover the guys in service.
I recall reading that in order to drop the oil pan, you have to drop the oil pump because the pan interferes with the pump if removing the pan with the motor in the vehicle. ( this info was from either a Chilton or a Haynes book )
Talk to the dealer OWNER and not just the guys in Service.
The guys in service are gonna cover the guys in service.
I recall reading that in order to drop the oil pan, you have to drop the oil pump because the pan interferes with the pump if removing the pan with the motor in the vehicle. ( this info was from either a Chilton or a Haynes book )
Last edited by KD3NE; 02-20-2011 at 11:35 AM.
#14
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would go straight into the Service Managers office, be nice but explain you had no issues until this repair. see where it goes from there. most if not all dealers have a customer service Representative, they would also be a good person to contact.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: West Texas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
reading your post and follow ups by other members, seems to me like the following occured;
when the service department put things back together, the oil pick-up tube was not properly secured.
4 years ago I replaced my RMS myself, the job was not all that difficult other than breaking loose the oil pain from the motor when it was 29 degrees out in Florida.(brrrrr) and no garage. regardless,,,, I had gotten teh old seal out and the new one back in, cleaned out the oil pan real well (thank goodness there was no gunk or gook buildup! Valvoline baby!)......well, getting the pickup tube and strainer back on the oil pump assy was a bit of a trick as one cannot attach this unless you have the pan in place ready to bolt up etc etc...so when I attached the pickup assy I apparently did not secure it tight enough as a few mile down the road oil pressure went really low like you are experiencing. Knowing I had not removed anything else, I got back under it, drained oil, removed pan and sure enough one side of the pickup tube was loose and it was kinda wobbling in place. At least the bolts holding it on had not worked all the way out. sooooo,, I took them out cleaned them very well and put some loctite on them and torqued them down about 5 ft lbs more than required and let them sit for half a day before putting the pan back on. After that, no leak and my oil pressure is A-OK.....
just my experience sir, but me thinks the bolts are loose and the pump is getting air.
hope it helps!
cpnwrench
This is a dealer problem as was pointed out by other members here, and you should by all means get it back to them for fix.
when the service department put things back together, the oil pick-up tube was not properly secured.
4 years ago I replaced my RMS myself, the job was not all that difficult other than breaking loose the oil pain from the motor when it was 29 degrees out in Florida.(brrrrr) and no garage. regardless,,,, I had gotten teh old seal out and the new one back in, cleaned out the oil pan real well (thank goodness there was no gunk or gook buildup! Valvoline baby!)......well, getting the pickup tube and strainer back on the oil pump assy was a bit of a trick as one cannot attach this unless you have the pan in place ready to bolt up etc etc...so when I attached the pickup assy I apparently did not secure it tight enough as a few mile down the road oil pressure went really low like you are experiencing. Knowing I had not removed anything else, I got back under it, drained oil, removed pan and sure enough one side of the pickup tube was loose and it was kinda wobbling in place. At least the bolts holding it on had not worked all the way out. sooooo,, I took them out cleaned them very well and put some loctite on them and torqued them down about 5 ft lbs more than required and let them sit for half a day before putting the pan back on. After that, no leak and my oil pressure is A-OK.....
just my experience sir, but me thinks the bolts are loose and the pump is getting air.
hope it helps!
cpnwrench
This is a dealer problem as was pointed out by other members here, and you should by all means get it back to them for fix.