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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
As the fluid thins with heat, I would expect the pressures to drop a little and be less firm. Not more firm.
I know, it really doesn’t make a lot of sense. Further detailed:
- If I’m accelerating lightly in traffic, just softly pressing the gas pedal, I get the annoying bump and jerk from 1st to 2nd at around 1800/1900 rpm.
- if i floor the accelerator until 2300/2500 rpm and let the go of the gas, the car shifts and it’s much much smoother.
- if i floor the gas and drive it like I stole it the bump is so intense it feels you’re gonna break the tranny.
Are you sure you don't have a motor/trans mount issue?
The motor mount bracket bolts on the passenger side of the engine can break. And the engine mounts can wear on both sides.
The trans mount can fail. And, the bolts holding the trans mount to the aluminum housing above it can loosen up and fall out.
Are you sure you don't have a motor/trans mount issue?
The motor mount bracket bolts on the passenger side of the engine can break. And the engine mounts can wear on both sides.
The trans mount can fail. And, the bolts holding the trans mount to the aluminum housing above it can loosen up and fall out.
No, definitely not related to that. It’s something to do with the pressure/ timing of the transmission when it shifts from 1st to second, as I said when the oil is cool it’s hardly noticeable and then it becomes super harsh once the tranny oil is up to running temps.
Driving me and my wallet crazy, I even opened the thing at the shop to look at the gears and all is looking good according to the shop.
If you have watched all the cable actions, including the big plastic clamp alongside the trans, and its all smooth and not jerky, would that not suggest some internal trans problem, possibly the valve body ?
I would have a look at the fault finding chart in the FSM or download an AW4 manual (same)
Maybe not, I had some fun years ago taking apart valve bodies, very tricky, that is where the fault was in mine, a sticky piston in bore/weak spring...nasty
an expert trans guy told me back in the day, they swapped out valve bodies on that model, which twigged me, he would be retired now
You can fit a pressure gauge as well, that is what I did $5 fitting, $5 for 0-300psi gauge, $20 for 6ft of HP hydraulic hose, drive around with gauge inside cabin
If you have watched all the cable actions, including the big plastic clamp alongside the trans, and its all smooth and not jerky, would that not suggest some internal trans problem, possibly the valve body ?
I would have a look at the fault finding chart in the FSM or download an AW4 manual (same)
Maybe not, I had some fun years ago taking apart valve bodies, very tricky, that is where the fault was in mine, a sticky piston in bore/weak spring...nasty
an expert trans guy told me back in the day, they swapped out valve bodies on that model, which twigged me, he would be retired now
You can fit a pressure gauge as well, that is what I did $5 fitting, $5 for 0-300psi gauge, $20 for 6ft of HP hydraulic hose, drive around with gauge inside cabin
Yes. Like the throttle valve sticking for some reason.
After months at the shop problem has been solved: faulty valve body. Out with the old, in with the new (second hand from the junkyard). Smooth as butter.
01-28-2024, 09:17 PM
