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hard to start after it warms up

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Old 05-08-2016 | 07:07 PM
  #16  
97grand4.0's Avatar
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by hbracing13
I was going to say cam sensor also that's what it sounds like. But it would also try to die while driving also.
Try is on a cold start get a heat gun or blow dryer and heat up that area like a normal drive then try to start it. If it it that it shouldn't start till it cools off. If it does start let it warm up and shut if off or drive it like a normal day, check rail pressure again and spark at each plug for spark.
Disagree on it would try to die while driving,... mine would drive ok, just not restart when warmed up. Cam sensor.aka distributor switchplate, aka pickup coil. And there is a reason the OE mopar costs 110. at the dealer. Because it's the only one the pcm will actually work right with. Went through this 4 days ago, after a month of misguesses.
Old 05-08-2016 | 09:13 PM
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Year: 1999 Classic
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Disagree on it would try to die while driving,... mine would drive ok, just not restart when warmed up. Cam sensor.aka distributor switchplate, aka pickup coil. And there is a reason the OE mopar costs 110. at the dealer. Because it's the only one the pcm will actually work right with. Went through this 4 days ago, after a month of misguesses.

Did you have to press the gas pedal down to start yours?
Old 05-09-2016 | 07:25 AM
  #18  
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
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If I let it just crank over without touching the pedal, it would set a code 54 (check engine light) after about a dozen cranks. As it got worse, variously I would try giving a little pedal and sometimes it would help.
If you turn the key on then quickly off and on3 times and let it stay on without cranking it should read the codes out on the speedometer and by flashing the CEL. You could see if the code is set.
I would add I had already replaced the Crank sensor, not to be confused with the cam sensor.
Old 05-09-2016 | 09:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
If I let it just crank over without touching the pedal, it would set a code 54 (check engine light) after about a dozen cranks. As it got worse, variously I would try giving a little pedal and sometimes it would help.
If you turn the key on then quickly off and on3 times and let it stay on without cranking it should read the codes out on the speedometer and by flashing the CEL. You could see if the code is set.
I would add I had already replaced the Crank sensor, not to be confused with the cam sensor.
I have zero codes, no CEL. If I don't press the pedal it just cranks.
Old 05-09-2016 | 10:42 AM
  #20  
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TPS? Only sensor that moves with the gas pedal. Unless it's a flooding issue but your FP holds pressure...hmm....
TPS and cam sensor won't always set a code. Hope that helps. Sure sounds more like TPs now.
Being a 99 I'm not too sure I'll admit.

Last edited by 97grand4.0; 05-09-2016 at 10:47 AM.
Old 05-11-2016 | 01:17 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Disagree on it would try to die while driving,... mine would drive ok, just not restart when warmed up. Cam sensor.aka distributor switchplate, aka pickup coil. And there is a reason the OE mopar costs 110. at the dealer. Because it's the only one the pcm will actually work right with. Went through this 4 days ago, after a month of misguesses.
The cam sensor aka pick up coil did the same on a ford I was working on, would run fine when cold then all of a sudden die out even while running when hot. Would have to get cool down in order for it to start again. Testing each pin would show good just one set of test would just be out of range. But would start up all the time expect when hot.
Old 05-11-2016 | 07:32 AM
  #22  
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
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Originally Posted by hbracing13
The cam sensor aka pick up coil did the same on a ford I was working on, would run fine when cold then all of a sudden die out even while running when hot. Would have to get cool down in order for it to start again. Testing each pin would show good just one set of test would just be out of range. But would start up all the time expect when hot.
Yep same here. I ohm tested the 2 failed sensors and got wildly different readings between the two. They would run but I could tell it wanted to stall when I came to a stop, only reason it didn't was probably the new IAC. But my original , 200k miles sensor is back in and working ok. Not a single missed start in a week and half now. Idles like new.
Old 05-30-2016 | 10:10 PM
  #23  
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Year: 1999 Classic
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Default update

I ordered a new TPS, a factory Mopar unit. I installed it and have taken a few test runs. So far so good. I turn it off, and it starts right up. No more mashing the gas pedal. If anything changes, I'll let you peeps know.
Old 08-05-2016 | 05:53 PM
  #24  
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Default tps fixed it

Still working. Since replacing the TPS a few months ago, with a new factory Mopar unit, I have not had a hot start issue. Just wanted to update, in case anybody else experiences this type of problem
Old 08-05-2016 | 07:45 PM
  #25  
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
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Originally Posted by t-cell
Still working. Since replacing the TPS a few months ago, with a new factory Mopar unit, I have not had a hot start issue. Just wanted to update, in case anybody else experiences this type of problem
Cool yeah it almost had to be. Be sure to click 'approve' so I can get paid. lol.
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