Harmonic Balancer installed all the way ?
#16
Seal not leaking?
Alles gut - DFWAI. There is some "normal variation" in parts manufacture, just as there is "normal variation" in people.
#18
The wood is what saved you - you're not supposed to use impact to drive the thing on...
#19
i lubed the crap out of it and it was a tight fit. i tried pulling it down with a longer bolt, but it began to strip. so my backwoods engineering prowess took place
#20
I usually go stepwise starting with about a 3" long screw and greased washers (it does help,) and never-seez on the crankshaft snout to help the thing pass. Works well.
#23
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Visalia, California
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L
Harmonic Balancer
How can you tell that the Harmonic Balancer is going out on your Jeep. I have a 96 2WD Cherokee that shakes real bad until you give it some gas. They say it might be the Balancer, anyway I tell for sure.
Or do you think it could be something else?
Thanks for any help
Rocks
Or do you think it could be something else?
Thanks for any help
Rocks
#24
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
How can you tell that the Harmonic Balancer is going out on your Jeep. I have a 96 2WD Cherokee that shakes real bad until you give it some gas. They say it might be the Balancer, anyway I tell for sure.
Or do you think it could be something else?
Thanks for any help
Rocks
Or do you think it could be something else?
Thanks for any help
Rocks
I've done harmonic dampers a lot more than twice!
The general rule is that, if the HD hub is flush with the crankshaft snout, you're there. No point in going on any farther than that, since the heavy washer under the nose screw head will only hold it flush anyhow.
When driving the new seal into the front cover, stop when it's flush with the forward edge of the seal bore. You'll be happy to have the extra room behind it next time you change it, believe me!
When the HD starts to head West on you, the elastomer ("rubber") ring begins to fail and that allows the inertia ring to "walk off" of the hub. If it walks forwards, you simply have belt misalignment to deal with. If it walks backwards, it will wear into the timing chain cover!
Alignment of the two can be checked by trimming the protruding elastomer with a razor (which only takes a minute) and then laying a straightedge along the face of the HD - misalignment of more than 1/32" between the hub and ring indicates a need for replacement. Not more than 1/16" of rubber should be left protruding from the face of the unit.
The general rule is that, if the HD hub is flush with the crankshaft snout, you're there. No point in going on any farther than that, since the heavy washer under the nose screw head will only hold it flush anyhow.
When driving the new seal into the front cover, stop when it's flush with the forward edge of the seal bore. You'll be happy to have the extra room behind it next time you change it, believe me!
When the HD starts to head West on you, the elastomer ("rubber") ring begins to fail and that allows the inertia ring to "walk off" of the hub. If it walks forwards, you simply have belt misalignment to deal with. If it walks backwards, it will wear into the timing chain cover!
Alignment of the two can be checked by trimming the protruding elastomer with a razor (which only takes a minute) and then laying a straightedge along the face of the HD - misalignment of more than 1/32" between the hub and ring indicates a need for replacement. Not more than 1/16" of rubber should be left protruding from the face of the unit.
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