bamablocker

Ok so I have watched a few videos and read an awesome thread on here to help me remove and install a harmonic balancer. I have the pulley on with the installer still attached to it. I turned the big bolt until the crankshaft started turning as well. Well....I was able to keep turning without the crankshaft moving and I heard what kind of sounded like a compression hissing sound. It wasn't loud though, just with every turn of the wrench it kinda had a compression sound. Then as I continued tightening the big bolt from the installer it suddenly started turning way too easily. The big threaded drive bolt that came with the installer became loose as well. Have I stripped something? I tried to tighten the 14mm bolt that goes on the end of the big threaded drive bolt but it gets to a point where it feels like it's going to tighten, then gets loose again.

Cjjcalhoun

take everything off and start over. Check the threads on the installer bolt. If they are good tap the hole in your crankshaft. Your pully probably wasnt straight. If all else fails get a longer bolt for the installer tool or push your harmonic balancer on a little bit farther.

bamablocker

the first time it happened i went ahead and removed everything. i took off the adapter and the threads on the adapter looked good, but there were 1 or 2 small shavings that looked like the threads from the crankshaft. It did look a little crooked from under the hood but i couldn't tell if it was because of my angle or something. i'm just freaking out that i may have stripped the threads in the crankshaft

Cjjcalhoun

You probably did strip the threads in the crankshaft. just have to figure out how deep. How far was the installation bolt threaded into the crank? Keep in mind that there is about a half in of no threads at the begining of the hole.

If you went deep you can always put a helicoil in there and then have new threads. This may not be the ideal fix for this but, you wont have to replace the crankshaft.

bamablocker

the 14mm bolt that goes into the threaded driving screw or adapter that goes into the crankshaft? the 14mm long bolt was tight until it started getting lose and the adapter was threaded all the way to the smooth surface.

looking at the gap between the pulley to the edge of the crankshaft is about 1/4"

Cjjcalhoun

Your threads were probably messed up before you started. Try using the origional harmonic balance bolt to put it the rest of the way on. the pully opening should be flush with the end of the crank when it is seated all the way. If the bolt wont bring it the rest of the way in then you will have to drill and tap the hole. If you want you can use a helicoil to bring it back to the orgional size or you can buy a bolt that will fit the new size. You might want to remove your front bumper so you can fit your drill in there and keep it straight.

This position you are in sucks but you can get out of it without loosing too much time and money. If you dont have the drill or tap to fit it you can buy a kit that has it all at an auto parts store for $20-$40.

bamablocker

yea i thought about just trying to go ahead and use the bolt to screw it in but i didn't know if that would make matters worse. it's close to the same distance as when i took it out. i just got this 98 XJ 2 weeks ago and it has 153k miles on it. so i figured it's probably been the same balancer that's been on it forever. it was wobbling pretty bad so i hope it didn't bend anything in the shaft. i'm basically trying to avoid taking off the bumber and radiator at all costs lol. looks like i'm not going to have a choice now..

Cjjcalhoun

Even if you were a 450lb body builder that could benchpress 500lbs (and you might be) i seriously doubt that you could bend yourcrankshaft with a harmonic balancer installation tool.



The bumper isn't all that bad to get off, if it is stock.You should be able to get it off in about 20 minutes. If you have air tools it will take less time. Every jeep is different but your radiator shouldn't be inthe way of your balancer.

md21722

I would not use the harmonic balancer bolt to try to bring it all the way on at this point. Remove the tool and break it down and try to thread it in again. Do not use force. Make sure the tool was assembled correctly. The one I rented had an assortment of adapters and then a long bolt that was fastened to the adapter with a jam nut. A bearing and a 1-1/4" nut were used to pull the balancer on. The 9/16 end of the large bolt was used to keep the crank from turning. Keep in mind that everything that bolts directly to the block or head of the 4.0 is U.S. Standard thread (not metric). The harmonic balancer to crankshaft bolt is 1/2-20 if I remember correctly.

bamablocker

i'll take pics when i get back home to show where i'm at in the process and i'll take pics of the threads as best i can. but the long bolt that goes into the big threaded bolt that screws into the adapter is definitely a 14mm.....it even says on the box. it may have 9/16 on there as well.

when you say don't use force, what shouldn't i put force on?

bamablocker

noob question time......when you say bumper, are you just talking about the actual bumper? like the black bumper or the whole grill?

and i don't have any air tools :/

diskman

Probably too late for this..

Find something to cover the crank bolt hole BEFORE you use the puller. Maybe a smaller bolt/washer combo.

The puller I used (rented) managed to really hose up the threads on the crank snout. Just the first few was all it took to mess up the original bolt too. I swear the crank and bolt are made out of a really soft metal once you get past the hardened steel layer.

Ended up buying a NEW bolt at the hardware store AND a thread chaser to fix the threads.

Cjjcalhoun

Just the bumper. I did not catch the 14mm part. Md21722 is right, it is a standard bolt for sure and a half inch sounds correct. That could be the cause to your entire problem.

bamablocker

the adapter that is definitely US and not metric, but the long bolt that screws into the adapter has a 14mm head on it

Cjjcalhoun

I was referring to the actual bolt size, not the bolt head size. When he said that the correct size was a 1/2 x 20 bolt it means that the bolt itself is 1/2 in diameter and it has 20 threads per inch. The threads per inch can be counted by putting a ruler on the threads and counting how many are in an inch. Keep in mind that they dont make a 1/2 x 21 or a 1/2 x 19.