Has anyone on the internet showed how to jack the front of the XJ?
#16
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Hmm if you do manage to break them free, Either drilling the stud out or what (had to drill studs and they arent fun) then put on some anti seize to the studs and torque down to 85 pounds to 100 mine i used 90 and havent had issues since and eachtime i rotate and balance mine i ask for them to apply some anti seize to them. You overtighten these lugnuts and basically youre done for because they will strip out into a big mess.
I believe all 4 wheels were last installed by a shop due to a tire change.
My electric impact says 300 ft/lbs, and could not remove a single lug.
I am sure the monkeys went nuts with the impact, even though I always tell them to hand torque.
This was the last straw.
I am shopping for a different car that regular people can actually work on.
Either a Subaru or BMW.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 08-15-2018 at 04:02 PM.
#17
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.o
You should never put Anti seize on the studs or the flange. this effects the clamping force that they put on the rim and can cause a loose wheel situation. Just make sure that all the surfaces are clean and rust/ debris free. Use proper torque and re check after 50-60 km.
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
If you want an Asian car, go with Toyota or Honda.
I have no idea about BMW, but I'd love to have a chance to find out - I just don't have that kind of money.
#20
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yea, I always hand torque to 90 lbs.
I believe all 4 wheels were last installed by a shop due to a tire change.
My electric impact says 300 ft/lbs, and could not remove a single lug.
I am sure the monkeys went nuts with the impact, even though I always tell them to hand torque.
This was the last straw.
I am shopping for a different car that regular people can actually work on.
Either a Subaru or BMW.
I believe all 4 wheels were last installed by a shop due to a tire change.
My electric impact says 300 ft/lbs, and could not remove a single lug.
I am sure the monkeys went nuts with the impact, even though I always tell them to hand torque.
This was the last straw.
I am shopping for a different car that regular people can actually work on.
Either a Subaru or BMW.
#21
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Did you try heat? If you take a MAP torch to the nuts and get them heated up a bit, use a nice long breaker bar with a cheater (aka a section of pipe or a hollow handle that fits as tight as possible around the end of the breaker bar so you have a longer torque arm) and see if that gets them free.
Another option is to take a dremel with a cut-off wheel and carefully cut the lug nut as much as possible - then take a crowbar or big chisel and try to split the nut apart.
Another option is to take a dremel with a cut-off wheel and carefully cut the lug nut as much as possible - then take a crowbar or big chisel and try to split the nut apart.
#22
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Well not for nothing, but...
If the BMW or Subaru you buy next is also a steaming rustbucket, it wont be any more fun to work on.
The XJ is insanely easy to work on. A rusty ANYTHING is not easy to work on.
If the BMW or Subaru you buy next is also a steaming rustbucket, it wont be any more fun to work on.
The XJ is insanely easy to work on. A rusty ANYTHING is not easy to work on.
#23
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You should never put Anti seize on the studs or the flange. this effects the clamping force that they put on the rim and can cause a loose wheel situation. Just make sure that all the surfaces are clean and rust/ debris free. Use proper torque and re check after 50-60 km.
Really? Honestly i never had an issue with this happening plus many other tire shops do this on certain vehicles to prevent the issue happening again. Plus i retorque them every month with no change in torque.
#24
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
jack on pumpkin, axle tube,or front suspension mounts,, stands on axle tube
my white Jeep had wheelnuts @150ftlb....a couple of them started to deform upon removal
I arrive at the tire joint with my Torque wrench and re-do them in the carpark
One way to get bad wheel nuts off...weld the socket on (using the welder u bought to fix the caliper groove)..the heat loosen the nut.
In addition, the "candle" trick works like a miracle...let hot candle wax drip on the thread/nut junction...it wicks in as good or better than any penetrant
I always personally use anti-sieze on the wheel stud threads, acorn nut taper, and wheel rim where it mounts, but VERY sparingly, and add 20% torque
Never had a wheel nut come loose, or get stuck since doing this
#26
CF Veteran
I dont think u really want me to do that ....:
jack on pumpkin, axle tube,or front suspension mounts,, stands on axle tube
my white Jeep had wheelnuts @150ftlb....a couple of them started to deform upon removal
I arrive at the tire joint with my Torque wrench and re-do them in the carpark
One way to get bad wheel nuts off...weld the socket on (using the welder u bought to fix the caliper groove)..the heat loosen the nut.
In addition, the "candle" trick works like a miracle...let hot candle wax drip on the thread/nut junction...it wicks in as good or better than any penetrant
I always personally use anti-sieze on the wheel stud threads, acorn nut taper, and wheel rim where it mounts, but VERY sparingly, and add 20% torque
Never had a wheel nut come loose, or get stuck since doing this
jack on pumpkin, axle tube,or front suspension mounts,, stands on axle tube
my white Jeep had wheelnuts @150ftlb....a couple of them started to deform upon removal
I arrive at the tire joint with my Torque wrench and re-do them in the carpark
One way to get bad wheel nuts off...weld the socket on (using the welder u bought to fix the caliper groove)..the heat loosen the nut.
In addition, the "candle" trick works like a miracle...let hot candle wax drip on the thread/nut junction...it wicks in as good or better than any penetrant
I always personally use anti-sieze on the wheel stud threads, acorn nut taper, and wheel rim where it mounts, but VERY sparingly, and add 20% torque
Never had a wheel nut come loose, or get stuck since doing this
Also i honestly heard so little about the candle wax trick does it really work as people say?
Also 150 pounds!?!?!? thats like big diesel truck with 8 lug hub territory!!!!
#27
CF Veteran
Yea, I always hand torque to 90 lbs.
I believe all 4 wheels were last installed by a shop due to a tire change.
My electric impact says 300 ft/lbs, and could not remove a single lug.
I am sure the monkeys went nuts with the impact, even though I always tell them to hand torque.
This was the last straw.
I am shopping for a different car that regular people can actually work on.
Either a Subaru or BMW.
I believe all 4 wheels were last installed by a shop due to a tire change.
My electric impact says 300 ft/lbs, and could not remove a single lug.
I am sure the monkeys went nuts with the impact, even though I always tell them to hand torque.
This was the last straw.
I am shopping for a different car that regular people can actually work on.
Either a Subaru or BMW.
#30
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
I love jeeps. Ive loved all my jeeps, even the sad looking '92 I'm currently rejuvenating. But i have a BMW because its also nice having a quick, comfortable, reliable car that NEVER leaves me on the side of the road.
My 18 year old BMW.
With 240K miles.
That everything still works on, even the heated seats.
That still avgs 30mpg.
And will boil the tires right off the wheels.
...
On the rare occasion i do work on it, its easy to work on, & the parts are dirt cheap.
I wouldn't hesitate to hop in this car tomorrow and drive it clear across the country.