Has anyone successfully cut lower control arm bots? Which Tool?
09-26-2010, 07:39 PM
#32
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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I cut mine off this summer with an electric cuttoff wheel. i went through a couple 5 inch wheels. I almost took my finger off too lol
Last edited by Andyman395; 09-26-2010 at 07:43 PM.
09-26-2010, 09:11 PM
#33
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Year: 2000
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Engine: i-6 4.0
dont wanna read all the posts, and im sure someone mentioned same thing as im about to.
i had the exact same problem, that was the only bolt that was rusted into the bushing sleeve. I tried mapp gas, impact, lots and lots of pb blaster with no success.
I ended up using a sawzall with just a normal blade made for metal, cant remember how many TPI, but that doesnt really matter and you gotta cut the bolt on both sides so the arm drops down. I nicked the bracket a little, but nothing that will cause it to loose strength.
i had the exact same problem, that was the only bolt that was rusted into the bushing sleeve. I tried mapp gas, impact, lots and lots of pb blaster with no success.
I ended up using a sawzall with just a normal blade made for metal, cant remember how many TPI, but that doesnt really matter and you gotta cut the bolt on both sides so the arm drops down. I nicked the bracket a little, but nothing that will cause it to loose strength.
09-26-2010, 09:52 PM
#34
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L I6
I've got some cut-off wheels too, but only had the "adaptor" to use them with drill. Tried that , and, well , I figure this will not work here, as I would crack that wheel at a slight hand shake.
which would not be so >>>
09-26-2010, 09:57 PM
#35
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Year: 1996
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....bolt that was rusted into the bushing sleeve. I tried mapp gas, impact, lots and lots of pb blaster with no success.
I ended up using a sawzall with just a normal blade made for metal, cant remember how many TPI, but that doesnt really matter and you gotta cut the bolt on both sides so the arm drops down. I nicked the bracket a little, but nothing that will cause it to loose strength.
I ended up using a sawzall with just a normal blade made for metal, cant remember how many TPI, but that doesnt really matter and you gotta cut the bolt on both sides so the arm drops down. I nicked the bracket a little, but nothing that will cause it to loose strength.
Also at inner side I actually had to cut through the bushing sleeve before I got to the bolt. Made it even more pain in the rear. Now I have the same picture on the driver side. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr
************
speking of pictures, got them ready and will post in the next few mins. It's will take some time, got bunch of them .....
09-26-2010, 10:05 PM
#36
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
OK, so this are some pics and comments about how I installed the arm and Energy Suspension thrust washers.
First of all the parts.
I have here Crown arms (from quadratec.com).
The rubber bushings there are not something that can be easylly removed, actually they can't be afaik, only can be fried to smoke ...and I've decided - "forget that!"
The thrust washers for lower control arms from the Energy Suspension Poly bushings kit parts ### are 3116 and 3138.
The following picture will show the positions of the washers too.
Here are the parts first:
First of all the parts.
I have here Crown arms (from quadratec.com).
The rubber bushings there are not something that can be easylly removed, actually they can't be afaik, only can be fried to smoke ...and I've decided - "forget that!"
The thrust washers for lower control arms from the Energy Suspension Poly bushings kit parts ### are 3116 and 3138.
The following picture will show the positions of the washers too.
Here are the parts first:
09-26-2010, 10:17 PM
#39
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
now, here's a related incident.
As I was removing the caster adjustment shoe I broke on of the pressed in bolt, so had to "fix" it by cutting off the remains on both sides, then drilling out the rest and inserting a new bolt there. The difference is, now, to tight it I'll have to use a pair of wrenches:
As I was removing the caster adjustment shoe I broke on of the pressed in bolt, so had to "fix" it by cutting off the remains on both sides, then drilling out the rest and inserting a new bolt there. The difference is, now, to tight it I'll have to use a pair of wrenches:
09-26-2010, 10:25 PM
#41
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L I6
To replace the original bolts I am using the bolts that I happen to have from Fat Bob's Garage lift kit, those were for rea shackels.
I have no idea if there's a place where to get replacement bots. I don't see them at quadratec.
When I was replacing leaf springs I had to replace all four bolts as they were rusted crap, and I had to order them from local Jeep dealership, they were like 10 bucks each and nuts were 6 bux each ...arghhhh, plus tax, of course .... heh heh
I have no idea if there's a place where to get replacement bots. I don't see them at quadratec.
When I was replacing leaf springs I had to replace all four bolts as they were rusted crap, and I had to order them from local Jeep dealership, they were like 10 bucks each and nuts were 6 bux each ...arghhhh, plus tax, of course .... heh heh
09-26-2010, 10:34 PM
#44
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Year: 1996
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that's it for now. more cutting ahead.... there'll be no movie though ...heh heh
I'll post some updates when I am all done with this "three step" project and after I take it for a test ride
<<<< we'll be back >>>
09-30-2010, 03:12 AM
#45
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Hi guys...
had two rainy days over here .... today got some sunshine (that is yesterday as it's 3:50am
...
So, just wanted to add couple things here.
First of all, as I could not move the arm under the driver side even a bit down as I did on the other one, I had no choice but to cut the arm, because I could not place the blade as the arm was on its way ...
Well, cutting the arm WAS like a butter ..heh heh, and I did it with pleasure
That would not be too cool of cource if I was planing on just replacing the bushings.
The other thing I wanted to mention and This is just from my experience here. I've tried few different kinds of blades and found that the best for this specific job are 6" 14TPI blades (see pic). These blades seem to cut faster and last longer when cutting those bolts.
Also, if you need to cut one bolt (that is two cuts) then get at least one 5-pack blades. If you need to cut the sleeve also before getting to the bolt (as I had on one side of the bolt in both cases) than it may take even more blades.
OK, so , tomorrow after POR-15 get cured I'll be installing the second arm.
Geeeeee, I may even take a ride after a week of repair ....
had two rainy days over here .... today got some sunshine (that is yesterday as it's 3:50am
...So, just wanted to add couple things here.
First of all, as I could not move the arm under the driver side even a bit down as I did on the other one, I had no choice but to cut the arm, because I could not place the blade as the arm was on its way ...
Well, cutting the arm WAS like a butter ..heh heh, and I did it with pleasure
That would not be too cool of cource if I was planing on just replacing the bushings.
The other thing I wanted to mention and This is just from my experience here. I've tried few different kinds of blades and found that the best for this specific job are 6" 14TPI blades (see pic). These blades seem to cut faster and last longer when cutting those bolts.
Also, if you need to cut one bolt (that is two cuts) then get at least one 5-pack blades. If you need to cut the sleeve also before getting to the bolt (as I had on one side of the bolt in both cases) than it may take even more blades.
OK, so , tomorrow after POR-15 get cured I'll be installing the second arm.
Geeeeee, I may even take a ride after a week of repair ....