Head bolt/studs
01-10-2011, 07:33 PM
#47
Do you hear banjos?
I may be simple, but wouldn't wasting money on useless equipment be against the whole Jeeper's montra!!
Anyone know where I can find a 20,000 lb winch for my XJ??
GeeOhDee, let it go, really!! WOW...
Anyone know where I can find a 20,000 lb winch for my XJ??
GeeOhDee, let it go, really!! WOW...
01-11-2011, 12:18 AM
#48
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
You are correct, and I never disagreed with the fact that the OEM style bolts are more than adequate. Notice before any of our discussion started I even suggested that the information you included about the reuse of the original studs a second time was good to know. And I wasn't joking.
However I still say better equipment used isn't going to hurt anything at all if you can budget for it.
I consider myself average, matybe a bit above, although I've never rebuilt the top end of these 4.0s. I'm at a disadvantage from that standpoint, but I'm not new to wrenching alltogether. I'd still be more than happy using studs.
As for having to install the studs then drop the head on top, why not line the head up with the studs that aren't blocked by the firewall, then install the rears in the same fasion as a bolt? Again, I've never done a top end on these motors, but I see no reason that this would not work. Maybe you can help with that?
I am also still waiting to hear how the studs are bad, though. They provide better clamping on the head and are made of better quailty. Maybe its more difficult to install some of the studs, but I still don't see what my suggestion could hurt.
However I still say better equipment used isn't going to hurt anything at all if you can budget for it.
I consider myself average, matybe a bit above, although I've never rebuilt the top end of these 4.0s. I'm at a disadvantage from that standpoint, but I'm not new to wrenching alltogether. I'd still be more than happy using studs.
As for having to install the studs then drop the head on top, why not line the head up with the studs that aren't blocked by the firewall, then install the rears in the same fasion as a bolt? Again, I've never done a top end on these motors, but I see no reason that this would not work. Maybe you can help with that?
I am also still waiting to hear how the studs are bad, though. They provide better clamping on the head and are made of better quailty. Maybe its more difficult to install some of the studs, but I still don't see what my suggestion could hurt.
With the engine in place, this means that the firewall "lip" would have to be removed in that area - and that the firewall itself may need to be modified (notice the "kick-out" there...)
01-11-2011, 03:53 PM
#49
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Year: 1987
Engine: Check
The technical point isn't that the studs would be sticking up in the rear - but that the studs would be sticking up all over - and therefore require that the head be dropped straight down.
With the engine in place, this means that the firewall "lip" would have to be removed in that area - and that the firewall itself may need to be modified (notice the "kick-out" there...)
With the engine in place, this means that the firewall "lip" would have to be removed in that area - and that the firewall itself may need to be modified (notice the "kick-out" there...)
01-11-2011, 05:29 PM
#51
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I've made shorter alignment dowels out of 1/2"-13 threaded rod. They're about 4" long, the gasket drops on, the head drops on, then the rods get unscrewed (I cut a slot in the end) and picked out with a magnet-on-a-stick. 4", threaded about 1/2" or so into the block, the effective length of 3-1/2" or so seems to be about right.
01-13-2011, 12:54 PM
#52
Do you hear banjos?
11-19-2013, 07:11 AM
#53
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO from a 91 Comanche.
Ok, sorry to keep this alive, but I've got a question, and I know this is somewhat irrelevant to some of your arguments. I have a 4.0 that's bored out .030", is getting a .040" MLS gasket, a '99 intake, 85mm throttle, a fairly agressive cam, and a m90 eaton that I plan to push 16 psi with. I am controlling the fuel/spark with a mega squirt, and I think I need head studs before I drop the supercharger on, anyone agree? the engine is coming out to be resealed, install head gasket, cam, and timing kit, so that isn't an issue.
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