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- Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984 to 1996 Why are Headlights Flickering
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headlight flickering problem
#46
No, no, no! Don't stop trying. I just read through 45% of B.S. to get to the good stuff of u chickens clucking. I've gone through the wonders of owning a jeep this long without paying shop prices and I aim to keep it that way, and I owe a BIG part of it to u seasoned hens! I too have the flickering headlight issue, it's not too bad...yet. But when it rains it pours, and I got bigger jeep issues. I'm installing new headlights since the film element that focuses the light forward is depleted, a new harness sounds inevitable, and easier than chasing everything. The switch makes sence, but what runs n connects to a switch makes more sence (to me) 20 years of bumps n heavy vibrations will do stuff, plastic is plastic and rubber is rubber, it's like wearing the same pair of shoes for ten years and be baffled why your feet hurt. I just read and old post about motor mount bolts sheared off, and why n how common it is. Like others mine is the passenger side, two broken bolts using a tie down to alleviate weight for now. Thanks cruiser and 5-90 for what u wrote in the past. My jeep is going through all kinds of problems and money is tight, (little more than usual) but I still rather have my bullet riddled jeep than an H2 or Honda rice rocket with shiny plastic. So u chickens keep up the good word, cuz I ain't a mechanic, but ill wrench, bleed, curse, and hopefully laugh at the end. Thank u all who help along the way.
#47
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No, no, no! Don't stop trying. I just read through 45% of B.S. to get to the good stuff of u chickens clucking. I've gone through the wonders of owning a jeep this long without paying shop prices and I aim to keep it that way, and I owe a BIG part of it to u seasoned hens! I too have the flickering headlight issue, it's not too bad...yet. But when it rains it pours, and I got bigger jeep issues. I'm installing new headlights since the film element that focuses the light forward is depleted, a new harness sounds inevitable, and easier than chasing everything. The switch makes sence, but what runs n connects to a switch makes more sence (to me) 20 years of bumps n heavy vibrations will do stuff, plastic is plastic and rubber is rubber, it's like wearing the same pair of shoes for ten years and be baffled why your feet hurt. I just read and old post about motor mount bolts sheared off, and why n how common it is. Like others mine is the passenger side, two broken bolts using a tie down to alleviate weight for now. Thanks cruiser and 5-90 for what u wrote in the past. My jeep is going through all kinds of problems and money is tight, (little more than usual) but I still rather have my bullet riddled jeep than an H2 or Honda rice rocket with shiny plastic. So u chickens keep up the good word, cuz I ain't a mechanic, but ill wrench, bleed, curse, and hopefully laugh at the end. Thank u all who help along the way.
#50
Lmaooo
Thank you for the advice and for the lulz this morning at the firestorm I have caused.
I will assume full responsibility should my vehicle explode hahaha.
Maybe I will do a voltage drop test and confirm the problem is in the wiring, AFTER I replace the switch with a new one when I get the moneyz for it. One step at a time! Thanks again brothers
Also, considering getting a fire-extinguisher now that you say that, because all other components and wiring are older than that switch!
Seriously, thanks for the help.
Thank you for the advice and for the lulz this morning at the firestorm I have caused.
I will assume full responsibility should my vehicle explode hahaha.
Maybe I will do a voltage drop test and confirm the problem is in the wiring, AFTER I replace the switch with a new one when I get the moneyz for it. One step at a time! Thanks again brothers
Also, considering getting a fire-extinguisher now that you say that, because all other components and wiring are older than that switch!
Seriously, thanks for the help.
#52
Yeah I actually just thought about that, would make more sense to replace the wiring BEFORE the new switch. I just try to be careful about throwing parts at problems now because of past stupid mistakes! But I will take y'alls word for it
#53
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
That's a good attitude to not just throw parts at things. In this case though it's a substantial upgrade and can be done at any time. I really am surprised that these things don't have more fires.
#55
having same problem
having the same problem with my 94 cherokee 4.0 liter inline 6. found a small crack in the driverside headlight. the headlight still operates fine but cuts out after 10-15 minutes driving to the point where i have to hold the high beam selector back to drive. any ideas on the headlight being the problem?
#56
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Groveland, CA
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8 Posts
Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Having same problem. Came up about a year ago and at that time I replaced the pull switch. Problem went away. Until recently. Seems to come up when using the high beams a lot.
Two data points: fussing with the pull switch and wiring does not bring on the problem. Fussing with the steering column wiring does. Seems to point to the column mounted high/low switch. Will investigate Sunday and report findings.
First question: Cruiser54, is there a circuit breaker built into the pull switch? Or a circuit breaker located elsewhere on a 96 Sport? This could cause the cycling issue. Lights off, then lights back on. Hmm.
Conjecture: Maybe the use of modern halogen bulbs drawing more current and creating a greater load on the already limited wire harness. Especially if bulbs are at the high side, or over their spec. Bulbs vary a lot from spec. That's partly why some seem to last forever, and some die fast.
Question Two: I visited the Putco website and was unable to figure out if any of the kits work for the Wagoneer quad light header panel. Any help from you guys on that one?
Two data points: fussing with the pull switch and wiring does not bring on the problem. Fussing with the steering column wiring does. Seems to point to the column mounted high/low switch. Will investigate Sunday and report findings.
First question: Cruiser54, is there a circuit breaker built into the pull switch? Or a circuit breaker located elsewhere on a 96 Sport? This could cause the cycling issue. Lights off, then lights back on. Hmm.
Conjecture: Maybe the use of modern halogen bulbs drawing more current and creating a greater load on the already limited wire harness. Especially if bulbs are at the high side, or over their spec. Bulbs vary a lot from spec. That's partly why some seem to last forever, and some die fast.
Question Two: I visited the Putco website and was unable to figure out if any of the kits work for the Wagoneer quad light header panel. Any help from you guys on that one?
#57
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Sorry for the late update, so I never fixed the problem myself. I ended up taking it to a mechanic 5 years ago. From what I recall, he replaced the headlight switch with a better one, apparently the $16 generic one I bought and replaced myself was overheating and switching off. The problem never came back. I'm not an electrician, but the way I remember him explaining it made sense.
#58
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
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1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Having same problem. Came up about a year ago and at that time I replaced the pull switch. Problem went away. Until recently. Seems to come up when using the high beams a lot.
Two data points: fussing with the pull switch and wiring does not bring on the problem. Fussing with the steering column wiring does. Seems to point to the column mounted high/low switch. Will investigate Sunday and report findings.
First question: Cruiser54, is there a circuit breaker built into the pull switch? Or a circuit breaker located elsewhere on a 96 Sport? This could cause the cycling issue. Lights off, then lights back on. Hmm.
Conjecture: Maybe the use of modern halogen bulbs drawing more current and creating a greater load on the already limited wire harness. Especially if bulbs are at the high side, or over their spec. Bulbs vary a lot from spec. That's partly why some seem to last forever, and some die fast.
Question Two: I visited the Putco website and was unable to figure out if any of the kits work for the Wagoneer quad light header panel. Any help from you guys on that one?
Two data points: fussing with the pull switch and wiring does not bring on the problem. Fussing with the steering column wiring does. Seems to point to the column mounted high/low switch. Will investigate Sunday and report findings.
First question: Cruiser54, is there a circuit breaker built into the pull switch? Or a circuit breaker located elsewhere on a 96 Sport? This could cause the cycling issue. Lights off, then lights back on. Hmm.
Conjecture: Maybe the use of modern halogen bulbs drawing more current and creating a greater load on the already limited wire harness. Especially if bulbs are at the high side, or over their spec. Bulbs vary a lot from spec. That's partly why some seem to last forever, and some die fast.
Question Two: I visited the Putco website and was unable to figure out if any of the kits work for the Wagoneer quad light header panel. Any help from you guys on that one?
#59
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Groveland, CA
Posts: 426
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Received 8 Likes
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8 Posts
Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Additional idea:
Will going to LED's on the side marker and parking light bulbs lighten the load through the circuit breaker? I don't know if the pathway for those lights goes through that breaker.
Same thing regarding all the rear running lights. Do they get fed through that same breaker?
Also, if I replaced the high and low beam wires from the connector under the air box to the bulb sockets with heavier gauge wire will that be a helpful work-around in the absence of a suitable Putco harness?
Will going to LED's on the side marker and parking light bulbs lighten the load through the circuit breaker? I don't know if the pathway for those lights goes through that breaker.
Same thing regarding all the rear running lights. Do they get fed through that same breaker?
Also, if I replaced the high and low beam wires from the connector under the air box to the bulb sockets with heavier gauge wire will that be a helpful work-around in the absence of a suitable Putco harness?
#60
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Additional idea:
Will going to LED's on the side marker and parking light bulbs lighten the load through the circuit breaker? I don't know if the pathway for those lights goes through that breaker.
Same thing regarding all the rear running lights. Do they get fed through that same breaker?
Also, if I replaced the high and low beam wires from the connector under the air box to the bulb sockets with heavier gauge wire will that be a helpful work-around in the absence of a suitable Putco harness?
Will going to LED's on the side marker and parking light bulbs lighten the load through the circuit breaker? I don't know if the pathway for those lights goes through that breaker.
Same thing regarding all the rear running lights. Do they get fed through that same breaker?
Also, if I replaced the high and low beam wires from the connector under the air box to the bulb sockets with heavier gauge wire will that be a helpful work-around in the absence of a suitable Putco harness?