So I was leaving my friend’s house, and as I get in and turned my headlights on, whoopty doo they don’t work. I did some research and found that the headlight switch melting wires is a common problem, but I just wanted to post my symptoms here for confirmation before I do anything.

So here’s my symptoms:
- Headlights and high beams are nonfunctional
- Dash lights still work
- Taillights still work
- Blinkers still work

I will also add that on my way to my friend’s house I did smell a new smell in my XJ that I couldn’t quite put my finger on. Looking back, it probably was the wiring frying itself.

Anyways, just coming here hoping to confirm my suspicions and maybe get solutions. Thanks!

- LostInTheWoods

 

It happened to mine, and someone else’s that I worked on, so I’d say probably common.

On the other person’s, it was a melted high beam wire, so I repaired it and moved on. This was like 15-20 years ago, long before I had a Jeep. She didn’t keep it long enough to go bad again. But had I known then what I know now, I’d have put in a relay harness.

On mine, the switch and wiring tested functional, and wiring was not melted. It must have been the switch starting to go weak, not able to carry enough to turn the lights on. I also have 6054HO bulbs in mine, which was extra strain on the switch.

So I put a headlight relay harness in it. $20 something off eBay. No problem since, and surprised how much brighter the lights were too! Only thing was a year later I had to go clean up corroded terminals on the whole kit. So definitely pack all terminals with dielectric grease from the start. Still works great 3-4 years later.

So after fixing any bad wiring or bad switch, I’d recommend a relay harness for yours too.

 

Update;

So I tore into the dash and got a good look. The harness was fine, amazingly. None of the wires were melted and even the plastic clip looked in good shape.

The only thing wrong was the amount of shmoo (that’s what I call electrical corrosion) came falling out of the switch. With that, I decided to replace the switch and see if it solves the issue. I’ll test it tonight and see if that’s my problem, but I got a good feeling.

As for the relay harness, I’m definitely considering the addition. I’ve had my eyes on a set of Holley Retrobrights and it might be a good idea to buy that too if I get them.

 

If you didn't buy the switch yet i replaced mine with an ADVANCED AUTO PARTS one a year or two ago with no issues. I think there was a trick getting the **** off, can't remember but there was one stupid quirk just cant remember

 

It’s pretty much just like the GM switches. Theres a metal spring loaded button on the switch, that allows the **** and shaft to pull out of the switch. That’s how you get it in and out of the dash. To reassemble just stick it back in until it clicks.

 

Yes, that was probably it...the **** and shaft are removed as 1...thanks

 

Update:
So I replaced the switch and it seems to have done the trick. I recreated the scenario that happened before they went out; driving on the highway with the radio and heat on. Then I let it sit for a few hours before testing them again, and I'm happy to say they work perfectly.
Thanks for the help and suggestions guys!

-LostInTheWoods