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Heat soak? Issues when when temps are 80+ out.
#91
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
he's still ignoring the fact that i actually use the fuel pressure gauge.
i even have it mounted on the windshield when diagnosing these.
pressure never drops below spec during the missfires and stumbling after the hotsoak on 4.0's that come in with these symptoms/CEL's
i even have it mounted on the windshield when diagnosing these.
pressure never drops below spec during the missfires and stumbling after the hotsoak on 4.0's that come in with these symptoms/CEL's
#93
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just "adding" fuel pressure is not going to sudddendly contract all of the molecules in the fuel that have been heated to the point of being vaporized.
they need to cool down or be pushed out by the injectors while running, once they've reashed that point.
or... as we've said many times, sheilded from the heat so that the vaporizing doesnt occur.
they need to cool down or be pushed out by the injectors while running, once they've reashed that point.
or... as we've said many times, sheilded from the heat so that the vaporizing doesnt occur.
Last edited by N20jeep; 06-29-2012 at 11:11 AM.
#95
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Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
""""just "adding" fuel pressure is not going to sudddendly contract all of the molecules in the fuel that have been heated to the point of being vaporized.""""
Once the pressure is above the vaporization point, ALL the vapor goes back to liquid. Look in your science books 101. The 4.0's are right on that ragged edge.
A weak component makes it worse.
It's no wonder dealers are known as "stealerships" - the employees fix things with gum wrappers.
The hardest thing a shop faces - independent or dealership - is finding employees that use intelligence - even a little bit of intelligence.
I found out of 50, only 1 or 2 were worth keeping - but they needed to be herded around. Using a fuel pressure gauge is not complicated or difficult.
Just the fact that an infrared thermometer is considered 'fancy" and "too expensive" and has to be borrowed shows the pay scale of a "pretend mechanic." He knows what he's worth.
But this whole thread is a good example that it's not possible to teach pigs to sing.
For some reason - a simple suggestion seems to bring out stupidity.
Go ahead - show your ignorance!
I no longer care!
Once the pressure is above the vaporization point, ALL the vapor goes back to liquid. Look in your science books 101. The 4.0's are right on that ragged edge.
A weak component makes it worse.
It's no wonder dealers are known as "stealerships" - the employees fix things with gum wrappers.
The hardest thing a shop faces - independent or dealership - is finding employees that use intelligence - even a little bit of intelligence.
I found out of 50, only 1 or 2 were worth keeping - but they needed to be herded around. Using a fuel pressure gauge is not complicated or difficult.
Just the fact that an infrared thermometer is considered 'fancy" and "too expensive" and has to be borrowed shows the pay scale of a "pretend mechanic." He knows what he's worth.
But this whole thread is a good example that it's not possible to teach pigs to sing.
For some reason - a simple suggestion seems to bring out stupidity.
Go ahead - show your ignorance!
I no longer care!
#96
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Location: Northwest Indiana
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Year: 2000.5
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Go to the dealer and tell them you want your pcm reflashed... The new programming will run your aux fan when the intake 120 degrees.. it works perfect and was well worth the $80 to take it in...
If you need more info I can see what I can dig up...
If you need more info I can see what I can dig up...
#97
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
AGAIN...you ignore that i actually use a pressure gauge and get readings well within spec. and continue to try an insult people in this thread.
if the fuel is vaporized, you will not be doing any good by cramming MORE hot fuel ontop with more than factory pressure
if the fuel is vaporized, you will not be doing any good by cramming MORE hot fuel ontop with more than factory pressure
#98
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I can't help but adding, of course insulation will keep heat in, as well as out, but my Jeep seems to have plenty of (cooler), fuel running through there. I would think running, weather it's a reflector or something else, the injector would be cooler when it's protected from radiant heat.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-29-2012 at 04:23 PM. Reason: share
#100
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
THAT is. The problem might not be. Not having had that problem, and not have "done my homework", on these bullion's and stuff, I find this stuff can get pretty "squirrelly". Maybe the heat changing the shape of something in the TPS is an issue. Idk!
#101
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like how he calls the dealers "stealerships". In my case the insulator has solved my problem and since putting it on myself saved some money. If I were to take it to him to fix he'd be telling me I had other bigger problems which would cost me more than it actually did to cure my problem. I suppose the next arguement would be that it's going to catch up with me and give me trouble later.Well you can't live on maybe's. Maybe a tree will fall on it, maybe someone will run a red light and total it,maybe I'll win the lottery and get something else it is after all 11 years old
#102
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Year: 1996 & 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 Litre
I have changed out the fuel pump due to a psi of ~28.
I STILL have the vapor issue and have yet to wrap the intake, I even have CAI and hood vents.
After reading this whole thread today I am going with go-jeeps idea of wrapping the entire intake system to keep out most of the heat, hopefully the amount that HAS caused vapor to occur and when released flow for a few minutes from the shrader valve.
Sure a pump was PART of the problem but the major part IS the over heated fuel, at many times too hot to touch the fuel rail.
I'll poke my infrared/lazer temp reader under there too.
Dad always told me to "wrap it!"
I STILL have the vapor issue and have yet to wrap the intake, I even have CAI and hood vents.
After reading this whole thread today I am going with go-jeeps idea of wrapping the entire intake system to keep out most of the heat, hopefully the amount that HAS caused vapor to occur and when released flow for a few minutes from the shrader valve.
Sure a pump was PART of the problem but the major part IS the over heated fuel, at many times too hot to touch the fuel rail.
I'll poke my infrared/lazer temp reader under there too.
Dad always told me to "wrap it!"
#103
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like how he calls the dealers "stealerships". In my case the insulator has solved my problem and since putting it on myself saved some money. If I were to take it to him to fix he'd be telling me I had other bigger problems which would cost me more than it actually did to cure my problem.
rrich: "Welcome back from vacation, sir, we got your flat tire taken care of for you while you were gone. That'll be... let's see here... oh, about $28,900.
customer: "...uh, what? Are you joking? How did you get to $28,000 for a flat tire???"
rrich: "Well the lesser educated grease monkies would just plug the hole with bubble gum but that's just a band-aid for the real problem."
customer: "what's the real problem?"
rrich: "something caused your tire to go flat."
customer: "...I know, I ran over a nail."
rrich: "unlikely. The nail was put in there to stop the leak, I'm sure."
customer: "Explain to me how that came to 28 grand."
rrich: Well first I put the tire on the road force balancer to make sure it was within tolerance. It was. So then i put the car on the alignment rack to make sure they weren't scrubbing from bad alignment. That checked out, so the next thing I did was drive 100 miles, stopping every 10 miles to check the temperature of the tire tread, and monitor the temperature of the air inside the tire. All that was good, so finally I decided to investigate this 'nail' theory."
I took out the nail and cross-referenced it at the local hardware store to find the exact brand and size. With that information, I back traced the last 12 months of sales of that particular type of nail, and tracked down the customers. I inspected their projects and counted the nails used, then compared that to the number of nails left in the box."
customer: "..."
rrich: "There were nails unaccounted for in almost every case. So then i studied your route to and from work and watched which construction companies traveled that same route. I inspected each of their trucks and the hardware compartments for loose hardware."
customer: "where are you going with this?"
rrich: "Ok i can see you're not following, I didn't expect as much because the quality of education these days is just **** poor compared to when I was in school. So to make a long story short, I found the problem."
customer: "And what is it?"
rrich: "The ruggedness of your off road vehicle gave you the impression it was ok to drive through pot holes. You poked a hole in your tire and plugged it with a nail. So to stop that from happening again, I bought you an Accord.
customer: "...just plug my f#$%#$g tire so I can go home."
Last edited by 77olds; 06-30-2012 at 04:18 PM.
#104
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Year: 90,84
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You know, it's almost imposable to accurately measure the pressure in that tire. As you push the gauge on there air escapes!. YOUR NUMBERS ARE WORTHLESS!!! If you had the sense god gave a turnip, you would know the PRESSURE you actually saw on the gauge, is Different, COMPLETELY! then the pressure it had before You changed it!. Can't you see you let air out, AS YOU TESTED IT!!!!