Help with Cracked head 2000 XJ
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Help with Cracked head 2000 XJ
Hello,
I'm afraid I'm effected by the dreaded cracked head. I have a 2000 XJ with about 174k miles. I'm losing coolant and my oil pressure is around 10psi when hot at idle. I also find milky oil on my cap today. I'm wondering if it's even worth replacing the head at this point? I've been reading a lot of people saying the camshaft bearings could be shot at this point?
I've noticed coolant missing for awhile but, have not found the milky oil until today. The engine has not overheated yet.
Any recommendations?
I'm afraid I'm effected by the dreaded cracked head. I have a 2000 XJ with about 174k miles. I'm losing coolant and my oil pressure is around 10psi when hot at idle. I also find milky oil on my cap today. I'm wondering if it's even worth replacing the head at this point? I've been reading a lot of people saying the camshaft bearings could be shot at this point?
I've noticed coolant missing for awhile but, have not found the milky oil until today. The engine has not overheated yet.
Any recommendations?
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IS that 10 PSI according to the dash? If so, verify that with a mechanical gauge. I have a 2000 XJ that had a cracked head with 184K. I replaced it and now I sit around 17 PSI (mech gauge) at a hot idle and just shy of 50 while driving.
Do you plan on keeping your Jeep for awhile? If so, you can replace the head and run it till it needs a rebuild or just rebuild with a new head right away. This is expensive, of course.
If you're not in love with your XJ, it maybe time for you to move on.
Do you plan on keeping your Jeep for awhile? If so, you can replace the head and run it till it needs a rebuild or just rebuild with a new head right away. This is expensive, of course.
If you're not in love with your XJ, it maybe time for you to move on.
#3
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IS that 10 PSI according to the dash? If so, verify that with a mechanical gauge. I have a 2000 XJ that had a cracked head with 184K. I replaced it and now I sit around 17 PSI (mech gauge) at a hot idle and just shy of 50 while driving.
Do you plan on keeping your Jeep for awhile? If so, you can replace the head and run it till it needs a rebuild or just rebuild with a new head right away. This is expensive, of course.
If you're not in love with your XJ, it maybe time for you to move on.
Do you plan on keeping your Jeep for awhile? If so, you can replace the head and run it till it needs a rebuild or just rebuild with a new head right away. This is expensive, of course.
If you're not in love with your XJ, it maybe time for you to move on.
Thanks for the advice.
#4
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre I6
Hello,
I'm afraid I'm effected by the dreaded cracked head. I have a 2000 XJ with about 174k miles. I'm losing coolant and my oil pressure is around 10psi when hot at idle. I also find milky oil on my cap today. I'm wondering if it's even worth replacing the head at this point? I've been reading a lot of people saying the camshaft bearings could be shot at this point?
I've noticed coolant missing for awhile but, have not found the milky oil until today. The engine has not overheated yet.
Any recommendations?
I'm afraid I'm effected by the dreaded cracked head. I have a 2000 XJ with about 174k miles. I'm losing coolant and my oil pressure is around 10psi when hot at idle. I also find milky oil on my cap today. I'm wondering if it's even worth replacing the head at this point? I've been reading a lot of people saying the camshaft bearings could be shot at this point?
I've noticed coolant missing for awhile but, have not found the milky oil until today. The engine has not overheated yet.
Any recommendations?
#5
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My oil wasn't milky and I had an external coolant leak, so I couldn't tell from that either. I had to send a sample into Blackstone Labs to confirm. With only 500 miles on my oil, it had coolant in it.
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Year: 2001
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Used these for my water pump and t-stat surfaces. Good stuff! If you don't have a angle die grinder and air. You can load them in the chuck of a drill.
Pro tip: cheap knock offs available at harbor freight.
#13
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Year: 1998
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And yes, remember to plug your cylinders or whatever you may be working on with a rag or something equivalent. You can blow the cylinders out with a little shop air if you're overly concerned but some gasket dust won't hurt anything.