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Help! I think my alternator died!!!

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Old 04-08-2014, 01:23 PM
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Just remove the damn battery tray - 3 bolts and its out. Makes pulling the alternator out alot easier. If you dont have some sort of penetrating oil (WD40, PB Blaster, Seafoam Deep Creep), you should buy some because it is probably the most important tool in working on your jeep. WD40 professional and Seafoam Deep Creep both stand up to heating with a blowtorch which is sometimes the ONLY way to remove a bolt without breaking it.

Google each of these steps. All are super easy:

Loosen and remove belt, remove alternator electrical connections, unbolt alternator, use a big pry bar and a hammer or something to get the old alternator loose from the brackets (mine was glued on there with mud and dirt).

Reverse steps to install the new one. Its very simple, I have done it in a parking lot and it still only took me ~30 mins before I was back on the road.

You will want to clean all electrical connections as well. Starter terminals, alternator and battery terminals, engine ground cable, etc. Use sandpaper if they are very corroded (I use a little coca-cola as well if they are rusty)

Last edited by investinwaffles; 04-08-2014 at 01:26 PM.
Old 04-08-2014, 01:25 PM
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The WD-40 is working on the bolts now.
Old 04-08-2014, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
Just remove the damn battery tray - 3 bolts and its out. Makes pulling the alternator out alot easier. If you dont have some sort of penetrating oil (WD40, PB Blaster, Seafoam Deep Creep), you should buy some because it is probably the most important tool in working on your jeep. WD40 professional and Seafoam Deep Creep both stand up to heating with a blowtorch which is sometimes the ONLY way to remove a bolt without breaking it. Google each of these steps. All are super easy: Loosen and remove belt, remove alternator electrical connections, unbolt alternator, use a big pry bar and a hammer or something to get the old alternator loose from the brackets (mine was glued on there with mud and dirt). Reverse steps to install the new one. Its very simple, I have done it in a parking lot and it still only took me ~30 mins before I was back on the road. You will want to clean all electrical connections as well. Starter terminals, alternator and battery terminals, engine ground cable, etc. Use sandpaper if they are very corroded (I use a little coca-cola as well if they are rusty)
Thanks, I'm working on this now. I am going from underneath because that durn battery tray won't come out. Wd-40 and all!
Old 04-08-2014, 03:27 PM
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Why are you pulling the alternator before checking the battery for around 13volts before pulling the alternator?

Are you sure it's even charged it? Unless you know yourself then no point tearing crap apart. You never did post that you checked it.

My 94 cherokee had a bad ground at the battery. Everything including the radio would work but the jeep would not start. You should have cleaned up the grounds and connections first.

Seems like you are rushing things because you are stuck on one major thing. Start off with diagnosing before you tear things apart. It will save you some time and $$$.
Old 04-08-2014, 04:49 PM
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Not to pile on but I am an automotive instructor in a high school. One of the most important things I teach is diagnose before disassembly. The reason is disassembly and reassembled can mask the true problem as removing and reinstalling electrical connectors sometimes gets them working again. Usually however they only work for a short time and then you are back at square one.

In the case you have described, you charged the battery and the car still wouldn't start, my educated guess without seeing or touching the car and assuming the battery is good is high resistance at a battery terminal or a battery cable that is corroded internally. Both of these are rather common issues on jeeps.

A bad connection at a battery terminal would also limit how well the alternator could charge the battery.

If you really want to learn how to work on your own jeep in addition to listening and heeding the great advice I have seen offered here. I would recommend looking up Real Fixes Real Fast on Youtube as he does a great job explaining electrical testing.

In the case you have described a volt meter would have allowed you to do a voltage drop test on the battery connections and cables which would allow you to eliminate components as the problem. It also might alleviate the need to remove rusted bolts and other complicated parts that are not the problem.
Remember never assume, never be a parts thrower. Be a diagnostician it is cheaper and much more satisfying... And it's what you pay the big bucks to a good automotive tech for!
Old 04-08-2014, 05:07 PM
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I cleaned all the cables and connectors before doing anything but they were all pretty clean because I cleaned them 3 mos. ago. I usually check the little things first. But my gut is telling me it's the alternator. I'm going with my gut with this one fellas. Stay tuned…
Old 04-08-2014, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by autosurgeon
Not to pile on but I am an automotive instructor in a high school. One of the most important things I teach is diagnose before disassembly. The reason is disassembly and reassembled can mask the true problem as removing and reinstalling electrical connectors sometimes gets them working again. Usually however they only work for a short time and then you are back at square one. In the case you have described, you charged the battery and the car still wouldn't start, my educated guess without seeing or touching the car and assuming the battery is good is high resistance at a battery terminal or a battery cable that is corroded internally. Both of these are rather common issues on jeeps. A bad connection at a battery terminal would also limit how well the alternator could charge the battery. If you really want to learn how to work on your own jeep in addition to listening and heeding the great advice I have seen offered here. I would recommend looking up Real Fixes Real Fast on Youtube as he does a great job explaining electrical testing. In the case you have described a volt meter would have allowed you to do a voltage drop test on the battery connections and cables which would allow you to eliminate components as the problem. It also might alleviate the need to remove rusted bolts and other complicated parts that are not the problem. Remember never assume, never be a parts thrower. Be a diagnostician it is cheaper and much more satisfying... And it's what you pay the big bucks to a good automotive tech for!
I really do need my own volt meter but I had a ride this morning and while they charged my battery I bought the alternator. My car is a 1994 and the alternator has never been changed having a tough time getting it out.
Old 04-08-2014, 05:34 PM
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Everything I found says battery tray needs to come out. Dont think it will come out the bottom like older models. Wd 40s not gonna loosen the nutts like pb blast. Wd a lube where Pb is a penetrate .
Old 04-08-2014, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Everything I found says battery tray needs to come out. Dont think it will come out the bottom like older models. Wd 40s not gonna loosen the nutts like pb blast. Wd a lube where Pb is a penetrate .
Hey Buddy! I knew you would show up!!! I finally got that tray out. Those bolts hadn't been removed. Ever! Just putting everything back together.
Old 04-08-2014, 09:31 PM
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Wow,this is wild,your putting a non stock alternator in,did you turn in your old one because stock is much better quality than parts house alternator.If you have someone rebuild it's only 60 or 70 bucks and is still very close to stock if done by a good shop.Hope it doesn't turn out you didn't scrape your battery terminals good enough.
Old 04-08-2014, 09:36 PM
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It should have still tried to turn over with the battery charged whether the alternator is bad or not. >.>
Old 04-08-2014, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MonacaYankee
It should have still tried to turn over with the battery charged whether the alternator is bad or not. >.>
It did try but didn't succeed.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MonacaYankee
It should have still tried to turn over with the battery charged whether the alternator is bad or not. >.>

Exactly - the alternator doesn't come into play until after the engine is running...then it charges the battery. In one of your pics I think I can see the word "ECONOMY" on the battery. That's where I would start looking for my problem.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:22 PM
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I know I am still trying to figure out the logic of the diagnostic procedure being followed by the OP. However I think it is more a case of not enough tools in the toolbox meaning a lack of training. I was once just this unknowing about these things... But that was in 1990 or so...

Anyway while I hope this works out I suspect based on the symptoms she will be replacing the battery and possibly the cables... Could even have a bad starter.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:33 PM
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a bad/dead battery can turn the engine over and not allow it to start as well... even with jumper cables...

Im curious to know what happens next?


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