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help! leaking fuel from fuel line quick disconnects
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: el paso tx
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
help! leaking fuel from fuel line quick disconnects
they are both old and dont seal and o rings are worn out. decided to order both pieces. any special way to install them? any lube i should use on the orings? pic of part bellow. i have a 89 loredo..these quick disconnects are pluged into the fuel rail...
thanks.
eddie
thanks.
eddie
#2
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 207
Likes: 5
From: South Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
Check here on pages 10-11 for instructions:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-se....swf#toolbar=0
There's no mention of lubing the o-rings, and I don't remember using any on mine, either. Never had any leaks...
One thing I don't see mentioned, but I'll suggest. After installing them, turn your key on and off a couple of times to pressurize the fuel system. Check your new fittings for leaks, then, if there aren't any, start your engine.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-se....swf#toolbar=0
There's no mention of lubing the o-rings, and I don't remember using any on mine, either. Never had any leaks...
One thing I don't see mentioned, but I'll suggest. After installing them, turn your key on and off a couple of times to pressurize the fuel system. Check your new fittings for leaks, then, if there aren't any, start your engine.
#3
Having the same issue with mine expect I can't find the correct o-rings to put back in and I'm having leakage on the inbound fuel line. anyway I can bypass these disconnects and just use fuel line and hose clamps? I've always had carbed vehicles and this fuel injection is madness for me.
#5
The order should be o-ring, spacer, o-ring, lock clip. The o-ring/spacers go in the fuel lines (not on the rail). I use regular old vaseline (petroleum jelly) to lubricate the seals and the nipple on the fuel rail, they slip on much easier and it prevents damaging the new o-rings.
Longhorn, I found that the variety pack of Viton o-rings at my local auto parts store (sold under the "HELP!" brand) has enough of the correct size o-ring for the job but I only replaced one side (the return side) so you might have to purchase two packs to have enough to do both the supply and return lines. The plastic lock clips, if anyone needs to know, are 5/16ths and sold in a 5 pack (I think) for around $5.
Longhorn, I found that the variety pack of Viton o-rings at my local auto parts store (sold under the "HELP!" brand) has enough of the correct size o-ring for the job but I only replaced one side (the return side) so you might have to purchase two packs to have enough to do both the supply and return lines. The plastic lock clips, if anyone needs to know, are 5/16ths and sold in a 5 pack (I think) for around $5.
#6
They look like two different sizes to me. Here are links to two different kits that I'm looking at.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83504447.html
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83502745.html
These also mention that there should be two o-rings seperated by a spacer. Either they fell out the first time I was messing with it or the PO messed it up which wouldn't be surprising
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83504447.html
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83502745.html
These also mention that there should be two o-rings seperated by a spacer. Either they fell out the first time I was messing with it or the PO messed it up which wouldn't be surprising
#7
Fixed this with a permanent solution. I will post pics later but what I did was on the return or pressure regulator side. I cut the aluminum tube and took out the S curve the bolts to the motor and glued a piece of the aluminum into the regulator with care not to get it into the regulator too much. I attached a fuel line to both sides of the aluminum tubing with hose clamps.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.
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#8
Fixed this with a permanent solution. I will post pics later but what I did was on the return or pressure regulator side. I cut the aluminum tube and took out the S curve the bolts to the motor and glued a piece of the aluminum into the regulator with care not to get it into the regulator too much. I attached a fuel line to both sides of the aluminum tubing with hose clamps.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.
Wait, why didn't you just get new o-rings and quick disconnects again? Super simple. It takes like 5 minutes and it's the correct way to do it. I'm all for creative solutions but kluging together pressurized fuel lines/adapters/couplers in the engine compartment isn't the best time to experiment. When that rubber/epoxy gets soft due to fuel contact or heat, it's going to spray fuel all over your engine compartment.
Ugh.
#9
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ATTENTION EVERYONE!: DON'T DO THIS^^^
Wait, why didn't you just get new o-rings and quick disconnects again? Super simple. It takes like 5 minutes and it's the correct way to do it. I'm all for creative solutions but kluging together pressurized fuel lines/adapters/couplers in the engine compartment isn't the best time to experiment. When that rubber/epoxy gets soft due to fuel contact or heat, it's going to spray fuel all over your engine compartment.
Ugh.
Wait, why didn't you just get new o-rings and quick disconnects again? Super simple. It takes like 5 minutes and it's the correct way to do it. I'm all for creative solutions but kluging together pressurized fuel lines/adapters/couplers in the engine compartment isn't the best time to experiment. When that rubber/epoxy gets soft due to fuel contact or heat, it's going to spray fuel all over your engine compartment.
Ugh.
A fire wait to happen as soon as the fuel eat the epoxy you put it back together with. Also you don't want to put hose clap on high pressure. I at least hope you put the high pressure hose on there and not just the regular fuel line or you can also have the hose pop ar the hose clamps come off.
#10
My shoelace broke last month. I've been thinking about getting a replacement shoelace but just can't seem to motivate myself so to keep my shoe from falling off, I epoxied it to my foot. I walked around the house a couple times, I even ran a little... so far, no problems!
#11
aren't y'all just peaches. No I tried several times to make the disconnects work and even got new ones online but they wouldn't work right and as mentioned I had fuel all over the engine bay. I'm not some idiot and don't appreciate sarcasm for something I thought long and hard about and did with care. I didn't superglue the sucker together with weedeater gas line. @$$hole. No I used the STOCK incoming fuel line the "HIGH PRESSURE" one. I know this isn't the best solution and I tried to do it the proper way and posted on here for help to no avail.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
#12
aren't y'all just peaches. No I tried several times to make the disconnects work and even got new ones online but they wouldn't work right and as mentioned I had fuel all over the engine bay. I'm not some idiot and don't appreciate sarcasm for something I thought long and hard about and did with care. I didn't superglue the sucker together with weedeater gas line. @$$hole. No I used the STOCK incoming fuel line the "HIGH PRESSURE" one. I know this isn't the best solution and I tried to do it the proper way and posted on here for help to no avail.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
I still don't recommend your solution because if the forum reader doesn't devote the time and attention you say you did to doing it "right" (and they will NOT) then, at the very least, they're going to burn their Jeep down... maybe their house, maybe their neighbor's house, too.
Last edited by F1Addict; 06-17-2012 at 03:40 PM.
#13
They look like two different sizes to me. Here are links to two different kits that I'm looking at.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83504447.html
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83502745.html
These also mention that there should be two o-rings separated by a spacer. Either they fell out the first time I was messing with it or the PO messed it up which wouldn't be surprising
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83504447.html
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oi...-83502745.html
These also mention that there should be two o-rings separated by a spacer. Either they fell out the first time I was messing with it or the PO messed it up which wouldn't be surprising
What's worse, is that on my jeep there's a 3/8 type (black) on one side, and a 5/16 (white) type on the other. I'm going with two of the white 5/16's. I also found some of the old o-rings deep in my fuel line connector. I wonder what kind of problems those pieces might have caused other's jeeps over time.
Dylan
Last edited by BobF; 06-17-2012 at 04:36 PM.
#14
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
aren't y'all just peaches. No I tried several times to make the disconnects work and even got new ones online but they wouldn't work right and as mentioned I had fuel all over the engine bay. I'm not some idiot and don't appreciate sarcasm for something I thought long and hard about and did with care. I didn't superglue the sucker together with weedeater gas line. @$$hole. No I used the STOCK incoming fuel line the "HIGH PRESSURE" one. I know this isn't the best solution and I tried to do it the proper way and posted on here for help to no avail.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
So unless you're gonna drive over here and fix it for me for free. why don't you go pick on someone else. These forums are here for us to help each other not drag each other done. If I wanted that I'd go find some middle schoolers.
People come on where asking what they think and when they give there opinion the original poster starts crying about it! All we are doing is possibly saving or life and maybe the lives of your loved ones.
If you don't want an honest opinion don't ask!!
Last edited by RTorrez1; 06-17-2012 at 05:01 PM.
#15
Fixed this with a permanent solution. I will post pics later but what I did was on the return or pressure regulator side. I cut the aluminum tube and took out the S curve the bolts to the motor and glued a piece of the aluminum into the regulator with care not to get it into the regulator too much. I attached a fuel line to both sides of the aluminum tubing with hose clamps.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.
On the incoming fuel line side of the fuel rail I glued the metal coupler on the fuel line to the fuel rail and did not make a disconnect inline yet but when I need to remove the fuel rail I will need to do is cut the fuel hose insert a tube as a coupler and secure with hose clamps. as is this setup has run under high rpm and while driving around the block without leaking.
In case you're wondering what "glue" I used. It was a automotive rated epoxy.