Help me diagnose dead alt?
#31
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 17
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Remember, if you submerge that splash plate, anything that goes above it will stay up there. You'd be better off fabbing a somewhat encased metal shell for the alt itself. But with that also, if it wasn't fully encased, it would let things in. And they'd stay there up against it.
You cannot encase the alternator with a shell - it puts off WAY too much heat - needs to be a free-air design to keep it from burning up. Best thing to do is relocate it up top in place of the A/C compressor if you're that worried about it.
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch Co.
Year: 1985 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1996 6 cylinder Briggs & Stratton
#33
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Wenatchee, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Okay I cleaned out my alt as well as I could with water and then went nuts with WD40 on it and it revived it for about 20 minutes and then kind of stopped putting out again. ah...
#35
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Wenatchee, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Woo. Got it running and took it down to the hand wash and put the high pressure spray thing down on top of the alt and blasted it and my friend said the voltage immediately rose and I haven't had any issues with it in the past day! Happy New Year
#36
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
great its working again try and find a spare in the junk yard just incase our alternators re kinda costly with the economy the way it is it stings to shell out that big a chunk a change at least it does for me jm2cw...and happy new year to you to...
#37
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 319
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From: Wenatchee, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Yes definitely will be searchin the yards around here for a spare alty
#38
If you cleaned it out with water I would pull it, disassemble, and hose all the parts down with electric parts cleaner, then reassemble. Not sure whether the thing uses sealed bearings or bushings (alts that I've worked on typically have a bearing on the drive end and a bushing on the other end) if a bushing is present I would put some lube on that sucker to keep it nice, there's often a piece of felt behind it to hold oil and you might have washed it all out. Also I'm thinking maybe the brush holders are gunked up and you want to make sure they're nice and dry so they don't rust and seize up again. Besides, you always wanted to see what the inside of an alternator looks like, didn't you?
You'll need an impact wrench to get the pulley off, more likely. I've managed to get some apart with hand tools, but it usually involves, um, questionable procedures.
I'd be tempted to replace the drive end bearing at this point. Even though it's "sealed" it's already been wet a couple times. Check with your FLAPS and see if they sell the bearing separately, or a "rebuild kit" which is usually bearings, brushes, rectifier etc. and should not be that expensive.
I am not a big fan of parts store reman alternators and starters. I've had better luck fixing the OEM stuff myself, and if something is really hosed beyond my ability to fix, I would prefer to spend more money and take it to a real auto electric shop that will rebuild the stuff in house for you. (some of the vehicles I've had that's been my only option anyway, but I digress... you priced a starter for a Porsche lately?)
You'll need an impact wrench to get the pulley off, more likely. I've managed to get some apart with hand tools, but it usually involves, um, questionable procedures.
I'd be tempted to replace the drive end bearing at this point. Even though it's "sealed" it's already been wet a couple times. Check with your FLAPS and see if they sell the bearing separately, or a "rebuild kit" which is usually bearings, brushes, rectifier etc. and should not be that expensive.
I am not a big fan of parts store reman alternators and starters. I've had better luck fixing the OEM stuff myself, and if something is really hosed beyond my ability to fix, I would prefer to spend more money and take it to a real auto electric shop that will rebuild the stuff in house for you. (some of the vehicles I've had that's been my only option anyway, but I digress... you priced a starter for a Porsche lately?)
Last edited by N8N; 01-01-2012 at 10:02 AM.
#39
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Wenatchee, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
If you cleaned it out with water I would pull it, disassemble, and hose all the parts down with electric parts cleaner, then reassemble. Not sure whether the thing uses sealed bearings or bushings (alts that I've worked on typically have a bearing on the drive end and a bushing on the other end) if a bushing is present I would put some lube on that sucker to keep it nice, there's often a piece of felt behind it to hold oil and you might have washed it all out. Also I'm thinking maybe the brush holders are gunked up and you want to make sure they're nice and dry so they don't rust and seize up again. Besides, you always wanted to see what the inside of an alternator looks like, didn't you?
You'll need an impact wrench to get the pulley off, more likely. I've managed to get some apart with hand tools, but it usually involves, um, questionable procedures.
I'd be tempted to replace the drive end bearing at this point. Even though it's "sealed" it's already been wet a couple times. Check with your FLAPS and see if they sell the bearing separately, or a "rebuild kit" which is usually bearings, brushes, rectifier etc. and should not be that expensive.
I am not a big fan of parts store reman alternators and starters. I've had better luck fixing the OEM stuff myself, and if something is really hosed beyond my ability to fix, I would prefer to spend more money and take it to a real auto electric shop that will rebuild the stuff in house for you. (some of the vehicles I've had that's been my only option anyway, but I digress... you priced a starter for a Porsche lately?)
You'll need an impact wrench to get the pulley off, more likely. I've managed to get some apart with hand tools, but it usually involves, um, questionable procedures.
I'd be tempted to replace the drive end bearing at this point. Even though it's "sealed" it's already been wet a couple times. Check with your FLAPS and see if they sell the bearing separately, or a "rebuild kit" which is usually bearings, brushes, rectifier etc. and should not be that expensive.
I am not a big fan of parts store reman alternators and starters. I've had better luck fixing the OEM stuff myself, and if something is really hosed beyond my ability to fix, I would prefer to spend more money and take it to a real auto electric shop that will rebuild the stuff in house for you. (some of the vehicles I've had that's been my only option anyway, but I digress... you priced a starter for a Porsche lately?)
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