Hey guys,
This forum is awesome! I've been creeping since I bought my xj a few weeks ago (using search feature aggressively...like a good boy ).

I'm doing rear main seal and made a rookie mistake. I didn't mark where the studs vs bolts go on the oil pan. Does it matter?

Thanks so much! Loving the XJ AND this forum!! Thanks guys.

 

Not sure it does matter. If the pan has double reenforced plates put the studs there. Another issue might be the hole full of crud somehow keeping a screw from going "home". Studs are normally near the corners.

 

If I remember correctly the "studs" were for retainer clips that help some of the wiring up and out of the way.... Could be wrong and if there isn't anything for them to hold then I don't think it will matter.

 

thanks for the replies. I remember that most go on the driver side...but other than that, i'll just throw one in here and there for good measure. thanks again for the help. Really appreciate it.

 

They do hold wires and so forth out of the way (wires and tranny lines)

 

thanks for the reply. I'm only seeing 2 studs that actually hold brackets. The rest didn't seem to do anything other than hold the oil pan on...

I should have taken a picture before removing them though...drag!

 

I think only two of them are actually used, for holding the trans cooler lines..

 

The "studs" (not true studs, but close enough) are generally only there to hold up the transmission cooler line bracket - they're put on all engines, but if you have a manual, it don't matter.

Replacement screws are 1/4"-20x3/8" and 5/16"-18x1/2".

I have found it easier to use the 1996-up oil sump gasket (which is all most stores stock anyhow,) as it is a one-piece moulded gasket with semi-rigid rails. Also, get a set of Small Block Chevvy valve cover studs while you're at the parts house (they're threaded 1/4"-20,) and install one near each end of each side rail. You put the sump pan & gasket in place, and can hold it all up with one hand while you start the nuts on the studs with the other. Then, you don't have to worry about it moving around while you're getting all of the screws started.

I've often found it easier to simply replace the hex head screws with socket heads - since most pans come off "sprung," it's easier to see what you're trying to do and to put "downward" force on the screw and use leverage to get things in place using socket heads than using hex heads...

 

When you get done check your pvc valve and the tube to it. Might be why the seal was leaking!

 

Very helpful! Thanks for all the tips! Will def take your advise on the chevy valve cover studs. Was trying to cook up a plan for keeping the gasket in place during installation...that sounds great! thanks!

 

uhhh...are you saying i might not have had to do all this main seal replacement crap??? I'll check the pvc and tube as suggested. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

 

When i was trying to put the oil pan back in I used 4 small bolts and bolted the gasket to the pan while I maneuvered it into place. Once it was up there I could support the pan, unbolt the gasket and then lift the pan up and start a couple of the bolts.

 

I've just put a few of the pan bolts backwards through the gasket and down into the pan to hold it while maneuvering the pan into place, and I also read where a guy used dental floss to tie it down then cut it when it was in place.

 

Great ideas guys. Thanks for the help!