ducter

I still havent ruled that out, just waiting till I get some cash flow. I have kinda changed gears in the mean time where I have been getting it ready for paint and started to cut and tuck the fenders on it. Its actually kinda nice that it doest run as I can take my time with stuff and do things right without having to have it ready to run come Monday morning.

On a side note, does anyone have a bumper bracket template for the front and rear?

I did a search on here and found a thread started by 96_xj which in turn lead me to reading more about his bumper then I clicked on his name to pm him and found out what happened...had me pretty upset about the whole thing and I couldnt find the sense in what he did. He seemed to have so much going for him and was very active on the forums...I just dont get it and hate that he felt it came to that, a real tragic loss of life. After reading what happened I went and searched posts by him and read pages of them just trying to get to know him and he seemed like a real genuine, honest, sincere guy, really puts things into perspective.

thanks again.

freegdr

have you went and compaired your bearing to a new one yet,

freegdr

i am on a nother forum where there was a member with same issuei have pm him asking what he did to resolve issue

ducter

No, I havent as I thought looking at it there was no way it could be off that much and still appear intact, is that assumption incorrect?


Thats great to hear, I look forward to hearing back from him..eerr, you lol. Trust me if I can figure out a cheaper way to get it working I would love too.

thanks

freegdr

That was has every one watching this stumped how could there be that much play ...

Cherockee

My thoughts about this are if the crank surface looks okay, then some quick measurements could indicate what size bearing to put in there to correctly position the crank and stop the movement. Even if it's not perfect it'll get you driving the Jeep again and may last years.

ducter

Alright, this is a bit over my head on how to do it but if one of you will kinda guide me on what to do I will pull the pan on my next day off and settle this once and for all. I really dont want to have to replace the motor especially where it seems to run so good...except for the obvious that is.

I appreciate all you helping me the way you are and with some guidance I know it can be fixed. I dont have any tools to measure anything, but I will buy them just let me know what to get...cant hurt and may be nice to have around in the future.

thanks again all.

kps

for a thrust to wear excessively, is usually caused by clutch pressure. from standard shift, engines previous life it may have been behind a stick shift, did you replace both the top & bottom bearings for the thrust? I have tried reading all, but might have missed something.

get me up to speed, & I will see if I have any ideas, I have never been into a Jeep engine, but have built hundreds of automobile engines, Harley engines, but only a few within the last 8 years.

DFlintstone

Hi kps. I think all that has been changed is the harmonic balancer. There are videos in his previous posts....

I would think the width if the machined surfaces for the thrust bearing on your crank would be something you would want to know. It does look like when they turned your crank down .010, they may have taken some of "that".

There is a device used with a micrometer. "they" come in different lengths to measure different ID's. (interior diameter). You put it in the space, loosen the deal and it springs out to contact both sides. You then lock it. Now it can be removed and measured with the micrometer, to read that interior distance. It's used to measure spaces where a standard micrometer would never fit. There are also special micrometers for that.

Knowing that would potentially give you the numbers you would need get an oversized bearing. All a bit more involved than anything I have done. I've had blocks bored, cranks turned, but for me it all fit. I'm not familiar with what's involved in an oversized thrust bearing. It seems there aught to be an avenue though. It's been a while, I think a Chevy had shims.

A Vernier Caliper is just a tad too crude for reliable bearing clearances, but for that thrust clearance though I might conciser it viable. Also weather or not one will even fit in to measure the crank thrust surfaces, I don't know. With the weights up, maybe.

What say you Cherokee forum?

DFlintstone

Post #92 on page 7 is the video.

kps

thanks I had watched the video, but was unsure if had changed the main bearings? or the thrust.

makes you wish it was an old air cooled VW, lol, thrust was adjustable with shims under flywheel. oh well......

there is a backyard un-recomended way.......... to tighten thrust up, IF a new bearing wont remove enough play, definately not recomended, lol... using a round dowel, with bearing inner surfare resting on crank, tap the larger dowel into bearing back to widenen it, by trying 1 gentle tap, then retry, & or re-tap as needed until play is close to spec, & do that for each shell half, then replace, & keep fingers crossed.... this could crack the bearing shell, or weaken it, but it is a backyard way to make it run, sometimes a person has to do what they have to do to be able to drive when money or resources are not there. I am not aproving this & dont flame it, but offering an inexpensive solution to make it run, that isnt recomended.

DFlintstone

Clever! Peen it wider. Or, if their wasn't an over-sized bearing available I'd consider taking it to my machine shop guru, see if maybe it could be brazed up and machined to spec.

I might plastigauge a few rods and a couple other mains next though. Get an idea if it's condition.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-TELESCOP...item3371963efb

Some might want to click on "how it works", at the bottom. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

Cherockee

I would have never thought you put it all back together...

But anyways, the first thing I would do is call around and see if anyone has the thrust bearing in stock. If they do I would take mine out and go and compare your old bearing to a new one. At this point you would just be looking at overall width.

If a new bearing is noticably different (wider) then a new bearing should be installed. But before you buy you need to get some measurements, the hardest one being the crank. Might want to be-friend a machine shop that could help provide you with the tools and knowledge about measuring for a new bearing. Explain to them it's not pratical to pull the motor and bring it to them just to replace one bearing.

If you have a plan to start taking this apart and want "the forum" to be standing by if you have questions while you're doing it, let us know when you plan to tear into it. PM me if you like- I check the forums everyday so if you give me a day's notice I should be able to make myself availble (except this weekend- leaving Friday to see my son)

ducter

Lotta useful info. Thanks. I wont be able to do anything till my tax returns come in, suppose to be the 14th. I know it didnt make sense to put it all back together but was almost going to drive it as is till I really thought about it.

I did find a motor for 600, 101k miles they said. Thats a good bit cheaper then 2k, yet it wouldnt be new. I can buy a hoist for 150 if I could do it myself that wouldnt be to bad. Still trying to talk to the wife about it, see what she thinks.

kps

get a measurement to know where we are at, if you cant really afford tools, lets talk backyard ways, use a "compass" that will be able to set width, & then lay against a measuring instrument, more accurate than a ruler, this will give you a ball park idea.

I doubt you can braze to bearings to make the thrust surface thicker, really old school, bearings were poured & machined in block, you could adjust as needed, & shim where necessary, or actually you did shim, & then, remove shims as engine wear to compensate instead of replacing bearings, today they are called "insert bearings" but in old days they were Babbit, & poured into the block.

if the bearing is "peened" dont expect any long life, but maybe a patch job that will get a few thousand miles. maybe more.

the crank surface could be built up, but crank would have to be removed first. I have seen 1 built up with braze. but paying a machinist to do the work would cost more than a crank could be scored for. especially if could find a good used one. hopefully were not talking about backyard brazing & cutting to make work? I grew up around many poor folks & saw way too much done to keep engines running growing up, even seen worn out cam lobes rebuilt with barzing rod just so didnt have to buy a cam, as long as it would last 10,000 or so miles. a wood template was made from best lobe & rest were built up to match as best as could by hand. engine ran fine, & no it wasnt my engine.

crank technically can be pulled in car, but why? way too much work upside down, but I did it once, when I didnt have an engine lift.

lets address this another way, this is for people knowledgeable about this particular engine, can it be converted to old style vintage V-belt? they would not be running off, the crank would still move, but might be an easier, cheaper solution until he can plan for an engine soon. anyone remember seeing how bad of wobble in a worn out water pump, alternator, or badly bent crank pulley, & they wouldnt throw a belt, unless extreme high RPM.

feel free to pm me if you want, & if your in the states, I can talk you through it if necessary. if you want or need backyard type advice. to make it run, even if for a little while.