help please...harmonic balancer keyway fell in
#151
Lotta useful info. Thanks. I wont be able to do anything till my tax returns come in, suppose to be the 14th. I know it didnt make sense to put it all back together but was almost going to drive it as is till I really thought about it.
I did find a motor for 600, 101k miles they said. Thats a good bit cheaper then 2k, yet it wouldnt be new. I can buy a hoist for 150 if I could do it myself that wouldnt be to bad. Still trying to talk to the wife about it, see what she thinks.
I did find a motor for 600, 101k miles they said. Thats a good bit cheaper then 2k, yet it wouldnt be new. I can buy a hoist for 150 if I could do it myself that wouldnt be to bad. Still trying to talk to the wife about it, see what she thinks.
#153
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Thanks for the offer guys, I might reach out when the times here. I think that whatever route I go I would want to do it right so as to not have to eventually do it again, or replace the motor at that point in time.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
#154
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Thanks for the offer guys, I might reach out when the times here. I think that whatever route I go I would want to do it right so as to not have to eventually do it again, or replace the motor at that point in time.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
#155
Thanks for the offer guys, I might reach out when the times here. I think that whatever route I go I would want to do it right so as to not have to eventually do it again, or replace the motor at that point in time.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.
I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.
what part of NC do you reside? over in VA near Stuart, Martinsville area.
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Yeah I looked on Google maps, didn't look to far. Its pretty cool how you can get on a forum and end up talking to someone not far from you.
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
does you xj have three or four bolts holding the throttle body to the manifold renix has three Ho has four im lookking up the difference between the crank shafts between them?
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I will go look, pretty sure its the HO though, least that's what it was sold as lol. Let me go have a peak.
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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what im trying to find out is there a difference between the journal/counter weights sizes between the two motors where the beariong rides...
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#164
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Well, I did talk to my machinist/welder friend. (He makes his own gears and takes a shot at the Piston Driven Land Speed Record now and then). He agrees that 1/8 of an inch sounds like more than wear. (course it's not imposable). Is it a manual? Do you ride the clutch?
He brought up that in some applications a motor set up for a truck might have a heavier thrust bearing than another. So Yea, like freedgr suggests. Maybe checking for differences in part numbers might be an avenue? Maybe there is a casting # on the crank? The bearing fits the block. Is the crank suppose to fit the bearing?
Anyway, of course you can't actually braze a lead alloy, but I thought he might have some idea. Well he did. There is some sort of spraying process where you can layer it thicker. But it's spendy specialized stuff, not for us mere mortals! (I did get a # for a shop specializing in crank work in Redding, CA.)
I might do a wet/dry compression test to get an idea if I even want to save the thing. Also as soon as the pan was off I'd probably plastigauge a few other bearings to get a further picture of the overall condition. Still, even with less than "steller" readings, if I could just stick in the proper bearing......of course that would be sweet.
Just had a thought. You could put a shim under the crank pulley to at least keep the belt on.
He brought up that in some applications a motor set up for a truck might have a heavier thrust bearing than another. So Yea, like freedgr suggests. Maybe checking for differences in part numbers might be an avenue? Maybe there is a casting # on the crank? The bearing fits the block. Is the crank suppose to fit the bearing?
Anyway, of course you can't actually braze a lead alloy, but I thought he might have some idea. Well he did. There is some sort of spraying process where you can layer it thicker. But it's spendy specialized stuff, not for us mere mortals! (I did get a # for a shop specializing in crank work in Redding, CA.)
I might do a wet/dry compression test to get an idea if I even want to save the thing. Also as soon as the pan was off I'd probably plastigauge a few other bearings to get a further picture of the overall condition. Still, even with less than "steller" readings, if I could just stick in the proper bearing......of course that would be sweet.
Just had a thought. You could put a shim under the crank pulley to at least keep the belt on.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-08-2012 at 10:34 PM.
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Block Casting Numbers
Year............Casting No. ...........................Part No.
1987...........53005535 (8933002665)....83503400
1988-90.....53005535 (8933002665)....83505110
1991...........53008405........................... ...4626155
1992...........53008405........................... ...4638959
1993...........53008405........................... ...4728988
1994-95......53008405.............................47788 82
1996-99......53020569.............................48830 25
2000-01......53010449AA.......................5013166AB
Crankshaft Casting Numbers
The stock Jeep 4.0 crankshaft is nodular iron, has 8 counterweights, and weighs 55lb.
Year............Casting No.........Part No.
1987-90......3003453..........83503409
1991............3003453..........83507107
1992............3003453...........4638952
1993-95......3003453...........4728882
1996............53020767.........4728882
1997-99......53020767.........4864726
2000-01......53010411.........4864726AB
Year............Casting No. ...........................Part No.
1987...........53005535 (8933002665)....83503400
1988-90.....53005535 (8933002665)....83505110
1991...........53008405........................... ...4626155
1992...........53008405........................... ...4638959
1993...........53008405........................... ...4728988
1994-95......53008405.............................47788 82
1996-99......53020569.............................48830 25
2000-01......53010449AA.......................5013166AB
Crankshaft Casting Numbers
The stock Jeep 4.0 crankshaft is nodular iron, has 8 counterweights, and weighs 55lb.
Year............Casting No.........Part No.
1987-90......3003453..........83503409
1991............3003453..........83507107
1992............3003453...........4638952
1993-95......3003453...........4728882
1996............53020767.........4728882
1997-99......53020767.........4864726
2000-01......53010411.........4864726AB