kps

you can do it without a hoist, if you have a way to get a few long logs, think of like a swing set, or, a gantry crane, or I have seen engines removed with double stacks of cinder blocks, & a beam across top, with 2x4s dropped down the holes so the top pole wont slide off, nor the blocks slide.

freegdr

i may be on the wrong track but are renix 91and down cranks interchangeable with ho 91 and up cranks?

ducter

Thanks for the offer guys, I might reach out when the times here. I think that whatever route I go I would want to do it right so as to not have to eventually do it again, or replace the motor at that point in time.

I found a guy on CL's that rebuilds these motors and he seems to think that if the thrust isnt destroyed then its most likely wallowed out the block, said he hasnt seen an issue like this that wasnt the thrust bearing, but when I told him it still had both edges to it is when he said about the block. I dont know honestly as he wants to sell me an engine, i dont know his character to know if he is honest or not so I took it with a grain of salt.

I am in the states, North Carolina. I dont mind buying the tools needed to a degree. I was looking at a bit over 2k to have a rebuilt put in so it would still be a substantial savings doing it myself..just not sure how I feel about a JY motor. The rebuilt motor wouldnt have a warranty unless I had a shop put it in so that kinda makes it pointless.

freegdr

its not the block the cranks moving in the bearing not the bearing moving in ther block....

kps

I dont see how it could be the block, unless bearing was spinning, which with it being at the correct parting line, probably isnt. it is either the bearing, or crank itself, or combination of both.

what part of NC do you reside? over in VA near Stuart, Martinsville area.

ducter

I live in Durham.

kps

give or take 100 miles, from here. just have to get to Danville & take 86 up to 40, thats the quickest way. bought my motorcycle in Wendell just past Raleigh.

ducter

Yeah I looked on Google maps, didn't look to far. Its pretty cool how you can get on a forum and end up talking to someone not far from you.

freegdr

does you xj have three or four bolts holding the throttle body to the manifold renix has three Ho has four im lookking up the difference between the crank shafts between them?

ducter

I will go look, pretty sure its the HO though, least that's what it was sold as lol. Let me go have a peak.

freegdr

what im trying to find out is there a difference between the journal/counter weights sizes between the two motors where the beariong rides...

ducter

4 bolts. Are you thinking the wrong one might be in use? Or..?

freegdr

im looking at that issue if i find ant thing ill let you no the two blocks call for different bearing im trying to find the difference...

DFlintstone

Well, I did talk to my machinist/welder friend. (He makes his own gears and takes a shot at the Piston Driven Land Speed Record now and then). He agrees that 1/8 of an inch sounds like more than wear. (course it's not imposable). Is it a manual? Do you ride the clutch?

He brought up that in some applications a motor set up for a truck might have a heavier thrust bearing than another. So Yea, like freedgr suggests. Maybe checking for differences in part numbers might be an avenue? Maybe there is a casting # on the crank? The bearing fits the block. Is the crank suppose to fit the bearing?

Anyway, of course you can't actually braze a lead alloy, but I thought he might have some idea. Well he did. There is some sort of spraying process where you can layer it thicker. But it's spendy specialized stuff, not for us mere mortals! (I did get a # for a shop specializing in crank work in Redding, CA.)

I might do a wet/dry compression test to get an idea if I even want to save the thing. Also as soon as the pan was off I'd probably plastigauge a few other bearings to get a further picture of the overall condition. Still, even with less than "steller" readings, if I could just stick in the proper bearing......of course that would be sweet.

Just had a thought. You could put a shim under the crank pulley to at least keep the belt on.

DFlintstone

Block Casting Numbers

Year............Casting No. ...........................Part No.
1987...........53005535 (8933002665)....83503400
1988-90.....53005535 (8933002665)....83505110
1991...........53008405........................... ...4626155
1992...........53008405........................... ...4638959
1993...........53008405........................... ...4728988
1994-95......53008405.............................47788 82
1996-99......53020569.............................48830 25
2000-01......53010449AA.......................5013166AB

Crankshaft Casting Numbers

The stock Jeep 4.0 crankshaft is nodular iron, has 8 counterweights, and weighs 55lb.

Year............Casting No.........Part No.
1987-90......3003453..........83503409
1991............3003453..........83507107
1992............3003453...........4638952
1993-95......3003453...........4728882
1996............53020767.........4728882
1997-99......53020767.........4864726
2000-01......53010411.........4864726AB