Turbo X_J

I've been following this thread and with who knows how many previous owners anything is completely possible. It's going to need at a minimum a crankshaft and properly clearanced bearings, almost impossible to accomplish working on your back and the motor in the truck.

At this point in the interest of economy I would slap it back together and drive it "easy".


1. Can you tighten the belt to the point that it can't walk off the pulley?

2. Have you thought about cutting your losses and putting an ad in CG?

ETA: Bearing are always stamped 00 stock, oversized in your case .010", undersized bearings are custom parts.

ducter

Thanks for the reply, to answer your questions;

1. The belt rides off almost instantly after starting, rides on the edge of the dampener.

2. thought about it..but the shape its currently in, not real sure what I could get out of it.

DFlintstone

Hey there ducter. I somehow missed post #120 and was waiting to see what you found! Sure, turbo is correct, a new crank should fix it, but HOLD ON!

That crank is 100 times harder than the lead/copper alloy of that thrust bearing. Myself, there is no doubt I'd be darn sure that I new thrust bearing wouldn't take up that play. Yea, that's allot of play, but once it started hitting it may have mashed that flange. Hope it's not all back together.


I did see one here. http://www.autopartsdeal.com/Parts_L...jeep/cherokee/

Wonder if there are specs in the FSM

Cherockee

Those groves cut into the side are indicators to tell you how badly the bearing is worn. I'm sure there is a measurement you can take to make sure. I have a thrust bearing lying on my desk right now and I could get a mic tomorrow and measure it so you can compare.

You do know how to get the top part of the bearing out, right?

DFlintstone

The FSM seems to say you can do it in the Jeep. Didn't see a spec, it just talks of trying a new one. ^ Idk if there is room there for a vernier caliper or not. ^

Cherockee

Getting it out isn't too bad, getting it back in is not so much fun.

Turbo X_J

In the picture posted above they show the "tool" (fig. 1) fabed from a cotter pin to remove/replace bearings by spinning the crankshaft.

DFlintstone

A Vernier Caliper is a supper handy thing to have around. Mine get used all over, except on the 4.0 of course! Without even looking you can put it on the flat spot on a rod journal and rotate and feel the out-of round.

So much play. Gotta wonder if it's possible they installed the wrong bearing when they turned down the crank. Anyway it's been gone through at one point. Probably got a valve job.

Myself I'd want to try a new one. (I'd use a feeler gauge since I don't have a dial indicator), or measure it somehow and compare the #s to Cherokee's or something. Maybe it's bad news

Darn. I was out of town from the 22nd till the 27th, and didn't catch your post when the thread changed pages. The good news is that I got over 18 MPG with my 90 in 1,500 miles as it turned over past 264K!

freegdr

it dont seem possible looking at the video again i coulds swear the back half of the bearings not there

DFlintstone

Yea, I noticed that as well. It's there, (in the photo), but darkened, maybe from heat. Cherockee's info on the grooves in the side is enlightening. Judging from the curve near the edge, comparing the old and new, it doesn't look worn to me. Maybe the wrong bearing? Or something goofy turning the crank. Maybe the operator, (if there actually was one!), thought #5 was the thrust.

Cherockee

It is interesting that since we know the motor was "rebuilt" at one time and now has 10 under bearings...I would guess that they could have machined the crank surface the thrust bearing rides on (the flat sides) and didn't put the correct bearing back in. But here's the problem I have with that; look how bad the bearing looks in the sense of how black the oil is burnt onto it. Seems to me it's been in there a while. Why would this symptom just all of a sudden show up? The bearing pulled doesn't really show much signs of wear (at least the little that we can see of it). Anyone think he should pull another bearing to make sure its also 10 under and not 20 or 30?

The problem with using that cotter pin tool is it kinda wants to slip under the bearing when trying to get it started back in. Plus you're turning the crank backwards and the bolt keep coming loose....

freegdr

nope its no 3http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...php?f=5&t=2371

DFlintstone

^ Brain Fart. ^ Meant the rear, #7. With no sign of wear (I can see) on the "telltales", and what looks like an 1/8 in. of end play, I'd guess it was never assembled right/turned wrong. Might be fine with with the "goldielox"
bearing.

ducter

Still here, not real sure what I am going to do with the crank/motor. I was hoping my tax return would cover the expense of replacing it or the motor...and it will, only my return got pushed back by 2 weeks for no other reason then my simple pleasure is best I can get out of the IRS.

I have been working on other parts of the Jeep, sanding it down for primer/paint. Removed flares and debating on tuck and roll then later buying some flares to work with it. When I pulled the drivers flare I see its a JY panel because its green under the flares lol, this Jeep must have been in an accident or something...its OK, I still lover her and will get it all straightened out at some point.

Removed the luggage rack, going to fab my own as well as front and rear bumpers. I still have the paint, soft 8s, 2in budget boost and crap I purchased prior to learning of the motor issue so am doing things backwards. Will have it all ready to play only it wont move...fml. Wondering how bad its going to look with the 2in bb, tuck and roll on stock tires...oh well, tires will come in time as well...really sucks having this issue because what I had planned for the Jeep will now be on hold for a while.

Another interesting thing I found in removing the door panels for paint is the drivers window no longer goes all the way down. It just sorta gets stuck and clicks about 4in from the bottom. Nothing seems to be binding, I see no signs of stripping on the handle or gears so not real sure whats going on with it. By the time I get the motor fixed who knows what shape the rest will be in as its deciding upon its own that it wants to break itself as it sits in the garage.....any one else have a Jeep that apparently considers suicide on a daily basis or is it just mine?

DFlintstone

Hey there Ducer. I'm a fan of arasol chain & cable lube. It shoots jet a couple feet. Since it's foam then sticks, then as the bubbles burst the lube seeps into things. With the window down you can actually get about anything inside the door through the crack. My jeep is dripping with it , head to toe! Silicone might be better for the window slides and the key holes. Yea, guess they ALL are earning interest on our money every second we don't have it. That's why it leaves at light speed and comes in at snail speed. But they usually smile!

This gear-head would love to hear there is an oversize bearing that would solve your issue, but just because I'd take the time for that doesn't mean you can.

Clearly cars, (and Jeeps) where put here to test us and make us stronger. Once our metal has been hardened to titanium grade, we then can deal with things like DMV, programing the VCR, or getting change at a laundromat, in stride! We posses mental strength beyond mere mortals.