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Help please. Having to do a head gasket. Lifter issues.

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Old 07-19-2017 | 10:04 PM
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Default Help please. Having to do a head gasket. Lifter issues.

Well my simple valve cover gasket replacement has turned into a bigger issue.

As mentioned in another thread, when I took oof the cover I noticed a push rod just laying. I pulled it out and it was bent. It was the pushrod closest to grill if that matters. It was the cylinder closest to front wibdshield. I dont knowhow long it was this way but it ran 30 minutes before to go pick up gasket.

So I got a straight push rod off my spare 94 and was going to put it in but never could get it sit. And I could hear somethung rattling down the hole.

My uncle who was there said that I had a busted/broke lifter and that I needed to take the head off.

He left and started taking it off. All of ny other pushrods were straight with no bends in them. My head is loose now. Ive just got to lift it off.

So do I just need a lifter and a head gasket or are there other parts that go with a lifter. Sorry still learning.

PS. I dont know what caused this other than one time it got low on oil.

Or one other time while driving my spark plug on the cylinder of the bent rod wiggled loose and I drove 1/4 mile before I could stop and see what it was. It was popping loud.

Both of these things occured a year ago and my jeep has seemed to run ok. So heck if I know.

Is there anything I need to check while the heads off? Just really looking for some guidance because Im pretty much alone since my daddys passing and this is the first time Ive ever took a head off
Old 07-19-2017 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
Well my simple valve cover gasket replacement has turned into a bigger issue.

As mentioned in another thread, when I took oof the cover I noticed a push rod just laying. I pulled it out and it was bent. It was the pushrod closest to grill if that matters. It was the cylinder closest to front wibdshield. I dont knowhow long it was this way but it ran 30 minutes before to go pick up gasket.

So I got a straight push rod off my spare 94 and was going to put it in but never could get it sit. And I could hear somethung rattling down the hole.

My uncle who was there said that I had a busted/broke lifter and that I needed to take the head off.

He left and started taking it off. All of ny other pushrods were straight with no bends in them. My head is loose now. Ive just got to lift it off.

So do I just need a lifter and a head gasket or are there other parts that go with a lifter. Sorry still learning.

PS. I dont know what caused this other than one time it got low on oil.

Or one other time while driving my spark plug on the cylinder of the bent rod wiggled loose and I drove 1/4 mile before I could stop and see what it was. It was popping loud.

Both of these things occured a year ago and my jeep has seemed to run ok. So heck if I know.

Is there anything I need to check while the heads off? Just really looking for some guidance because Im pretty much alone since my daddys passing and this is the first time Ive ever took a head off
If it's just a collapsed lifter, not too big a deal. New lifter(I like Sealed Power), smear with cam lube after soaking it in oil. Reassemble everything, break in by running motor for 20min at varying RPMS. Five minutes at 1500, five at 2200, repeat, repeat. Oil change.

Now here's the kicker. When you pull the old lifter out, turn it over and check the bottom. It should look fairly polished, smooth and flat. If it's dished or gouged, you've got a much bigger job on your hands. New cam, lifters, etc. No other option, a new lifter on a gouged cam lobe will chew itself up quick, and you're back in the same boat. Just with more metal in your oil.
Old 07-20-2017 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TwistedWrench
If it's just a collapsed lifter, not too big a deal. New lifter(I like Sealed Power), smear with cam lube after soaking it in oil. Reassemble everything, break in by running motor for 20min at varying RPMS. Five minutes at 1500, five at 2200, repeat, repeat. Oil change.

Now here's the kicker. When you pull the old lifter out, turn it over and check the bottom. It should look fairly polished, smooth and flat. If it's dished or gouged, you've got a much bigger job on your hands. New cam, lifters, etc. No other option, a new lifter on a gouged cam lobe will chew itself up quick, and you're back in the same boat. Just with more metal in your oil.
My lifter looked perfrct when i got it out. It wasnt even in the hole. I was just laying on top of it. The guy at the parts store and my uncle said that the bent rod is most likely the reason it came out.

Im currently cleaning the head. Im just going to get as clean as possible without screwing it up.

Should i use rtv on the head gasket? And what bolt #11 gets thread seal but which hole is that?

Edit: I found on another thread where somebody post from the manuel to not use RTV on head gasket. Anf i found out which hole is #11.

​​​​​​​I reckon im about to start reassembly.

Last edited by Chick-N-Picker; 07-20-2017 at 02:52 PM.
Old 07-20-2017 | 03:30 PM
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Not an expert here but I think it is recommended to have the head machined before putting it back on.
Old 07-20-2017 | 04:52 PM
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Well ive just finishing cleaning up everything and i thought of something.

How do i put the lifter in? Do i just drop it in the hole it came out of?

Thank you for the answers. Im ready to hopefully get this back together.
Old 07-20-2017 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mikesignal
Not an expert here but I think it is recommended to have the head machined before putting it back on.
No.
Old 07-20-2017 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chick-N-Picker
Well ive just finishing cleaning up everything and i thought of something.

How do i put the lifter in? Do i just drop it in the hole it came out of?

Thank you for the answers. Im ready to hopefully get this back together.
Yep!
Old 07-22-2017 | 01:43 PM
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Well I got everything back together and the jeep is running like a champ at this point. I finally having power going up hills. I just always thought it was slow because it was a jeep.

But I cant drive it over a mile or two at most without it almost running hot. I stop before it does. Ive never had a problem with it running hot before.

I see no coolant leaks and there is no coolamt in the oil as of now. So I guess either:

1. Ive got air bubbles in the ssystem. Its a 1989 BTW. Ive tried getting them out but its still wanting to run hot. Maybe im not doing it right.

2. My T-Stat has decided to quit working out of no where.

3. Debris is clogging the radiator out of no where.

If I can get this hot issue out of the way that i never had before I will finally be driving a real XJ. I love the way this thing runs now.
Old 07-22-2017 | 03:34 PM
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Tried to get the air out again (if thats the issue). It still was about to run hot. I'm going to give it another try in a few minutes.

Im beginning to get discouraged. Ive never had a heat problem.
Old 07-22-2017 | 03:47 PM
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How much coolant did you get into it?

from empty, shoulda been 2 gallons.
Old 07-22-2017 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
How much coolant did you get into it?

from empty, shoulda been 2 gallons.
I poured roughly 2 gallons yesterday when when I finished up everything. I did an oil change also.

I went out and just now and checked my oil. Still no coolant in it and there are no leaks.

I took out the radiator drain plug. I started my jeep and stuck the hose in the bottle amd let it run for 5-10 minutes. It never got hot enough for the T-Stat to open i dont think because the constant cool water from the hose. The water was flowing out the radiator good though.

I plugged and went for a drive. It was going to over heat so I turned around amd went back.

I'm thinking of taking the T-Stat out to eliminate that from the equation.
Old 07-23-2017 | 12:27 AM
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Keep us in the loop.
Old 07-25-2017 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Keep us in the loop.
Well here's the news.

I took the T-Stat out and it still is running too hot. I've drove it a few times and it obviously takes longer to heat up with no T-Stat.

This is all with the E-Fan on constantly. I don't see how that could make it hotter. I used to run my 94 e-fan in

I drove it today in 90 degree sunny weather. After about 8-10 miles it reached 210 and then slowly kept creeping up past that. It then seemed to stall at a little less to a little above the line above 210. I got nervous. So I slowed way down to allow the clutch fan to kick in and cooled it down a little.

It then went back up a little above that white line above 210. I pulled over to let it cool off a little. I then started it up and went to my sisters and it was right at the white line before the red when I got there. Another mile or two and I would have had to pull over.

Whats seems strange is it seems to creep up more when I'm 45 mph or more. It seems to run cooler in traffic and at lower speeds. It also seems to run a little cooler when going UP hills.

​​​​​​​I know my fan clutch is good. I would assume this is either a hose squeezing under pressure or maybe dirt/blockage in my radiator.

What do y'all think?
Old 07-25-2017 | 02:39 PM
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Here's the kind of gauge I have as a reference.
​​​​​​​
PS: I forgot to say that the water pump is maybe 1.5 years old but the radiator, hoses, pressure bottle, and cap are all original. It's an 89 with only 89,000 miles.

i was reading and some one mention an over tight serpentine belt can cause over heating and that it might squeak.

My belt does chirp for 5-10 seconds at start up now. It never did this before.

Last edited by Chick-N-Picker; 07-25-2017 at 03:13 PM.
Old 07-25-2017 | 05:45 PM
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Radiator time Mr. Picker.

Napa has one for about $107 that has a filler neck AND a threaded bung for your fan switch.



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