Help!! Rear main seal still leaking!!

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12-25-2012, 03:35 PM

#16

DFlintstone

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Year: 90,84

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0,2.5

Another, "side story" from Flintstone. I learned a few things from my dad, mechanical engineering degree from Birkley, and grew up during the depression. He told me a dirty trick used car dealers would do. Change a rear main seal when actually the mains were worn. If the crank has worn it's bearings it might move (down) a few thousands of an inch opening a gap where the seal should ride. Slap a new seal in there and it might be good for weeks, (long enough to sell it). With modern oil and 7 mains on the 4.0, no doubt that is less common.

Another "note". Mine pissed badly when my front vent tube off the valve cover to the air cleaner was restricted, causing excessive crank-case pressure. (I returned the RMS & gasket I had bought when I found that).

Glad you got it! Well done. Merry Christmas!

Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-25-2012 at 05:26 PM.

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12-25-2012, 04:03 PM

#17

Aljay

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Year: 2001

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Engine: I-6

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlepesant

Check first what Cruiser54 is suggesting. I did my RMS last year. It is been leaking since. One area of the pan gasket I had difficulties with is at the back of the pan. I couldn't get the gasket to stay in place. I'm pretty sure it is twisted or just not in place correctly. I need to do it again while I am doing other things down there. But my distributor gasket is leaking pretty badly as well. I'll fix everything at the same time. I still don't know the best way to keep the rear of the pan gasket in place.

These work well . Oreilly can get them. Part# ES72863 Thats what I used last year on mine, used them in the past worth every penny of the 6 bucks!

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12-25-2012, 05:03 PM

#18

mlepesant

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Aljay

These work well . Oreilly can get them. Part# ES72863 Thats what I used last year on mine, used them in the past worth every penny of the 6 bucks!

Thanks. So you hold the gasket against the block with these, then slide the pan over them, correct?
I am doing that tomorrow. For now I removed the exhaust/intake to change the freeze plugs. I'll unbolt the pipe as well to slide in the pan more easily since my jeep is not lifted. Changing the trans mount as well and the front crankshaft seal. Thanks for the info.

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12-26-2012, 03:08 PM

#19

redmuck

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Year: 1993

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and frams one piece perma seal gaskets work wonders.

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12-26-2012, 03:47 PM

#20

Aljay

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Year: 2001

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mlepesant

Yes sir I removed the pass side upper control arm bolt so pan would clear. My jeep was stock height when I did the pan . I lifted the front and put stands just behind the lower control mount . Let the suspension droop, finagle pan out.
I always keep some of the snap ups in my tool box handier than pockets on a shirt.

Last edited by Aljay; 12-26-2012 at 03:50 PM.

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