Help: replacement Rad for 89 XJ
#16
No, I don't lick fish.
Took another look tonight - easier to see what's going on in the dark with a flashlight. The lower rad hose is defiantly wet right up to the pump body so either the hose, or the pump or both are leaking.
I need to find figure out and source a suitable pump now (and still maybe a rad)!
I need to find figure out and source a suitable pump now (and still maybe a rad)!
Luckily, I had bought a Duralast from AZ back when I first bought the Jeep and it has a lifetime warranty. I pulled the pump out of the box and compared it to the MOPAR pump - they're exactly the same. Right down to the casting marks and numbers.
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Took another look tonight - easier to see what's going on in the dark with a flashlight. The lower rad hose is defiantly wet right up to the pump body so either the hose, or the pump or both are leaking.
I need to find figure out and source a suitable pump now (and still maybe a rad)!
I need to find figure out and source a suitable pump now (and still maybe a rad)!
#19
No, I don't lick fish.
#20
Senior Member
Seems to be some mixed reviews on whether the OEM closed system is bad (or if an open system is 'better' - rather than just different). I've never had any overheating issues and I'm leaning towards just replacing what's there already - although I'd spring for an all aluminum rad (not keen on plastic tanks) because it would presumably be subject to less corrosion - not sure if that true in practice
I do like the idea of a filter neck though - would make filling/draining/burping the system easier.
I do like the idea of a filter neck though - would make filling/draining/burping the system easier.
Ive owned 2 jeeps. A 94 and 89. I switched my 89 to an open cooling in July. My thought was "Where have you been old friend?"
#21
No, I don't lick fish.
Id listen to Cruiser and switch to the open cooling system. You cant go wrong with listening to him, if you understand his instructions lol.
Ive owned 2 jeeps. A 94 and 89. I switched my 89 to an open cooling in July. My thought was "Where have you been old friend?"
Ive owned 2 jeeps. A 94 and 89. I switched my 89 to an open cooling in July. My thought was "Where have you been old friend?"
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Took a better look today, still not clear if the pump is leaking or just the lower hose. The pump body (not that I can see much of it) looks dry until near where the lower hose attaches. I can't see the weep hole, too much stuff in the way - unless I'm looking in the wrong spot - but I don't see any crusty reside anywhere. I pulled the lower hose off at the pump about a year ago - the last time I changed the coolant - maybe I put to much of a strain on the hose pulling it off and it's sprung a leak (I know - wishful thinking).
I'm loath to pull the pump off if I don't have too. The pump has been on the jeep since new and getting all the required nuts and bolts off could be a real pain in the *** and I'm not confident I won't break a bunch in the process, which would, for all intents and purposes, 'total' the jeep.
I think I'm going to go ahead and order a pump and a hose (and a serpentine belt) and just try swapping the hose (and the belt) to see if that fixes the leak before tackling the pump.
I'm loath to pull the pump off if I don't have too. The pump has been on the jeep since new and getting all the required nuts and bolts off could be a real pain in the *** and I'm not confident I won't break a bunch in the process, which would, for all intents and purposes, 'total' the jeep.
I think I'm going to go ahead and order a pump and a hose (and a serpentine belt) and just try swapping the hose (and the belt) to see if that fixes the leak before tackling the pump.
#23
No, I don't lick fish.
I doubt you'll be able to see the weep hole unless you use an inspection mirror. View is obstructed by the harmonic balancer and the pulley on the water pump.
#24
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Thread Starter
Then, I remember I bought a really cheap electronic bore-scope about 5 years ago and haven't seen it since . Went looking for it and found it! Sure enough there's some white crap up in there - kind of hard to tell as the borescope is a bit disorientating but i think it's probably dried coolant. Anyway, I'll order the new pump and take off the pulley first which should make things a lot clearer.
#25
Senior Member
Yea, I was all over the mirror thing but sill couldn't see anything useful.
Then, I remember I bought a really cheap electronic bore-scope about 5 years ago and haven't seen it since . Went looking for it and found it! Sure enough there's some white crap up in there - kind of hard to tell as the borescope is a bit disorientating but i think it's probably dried coolant. Anyway, I'll order the new pump and take off the pulley first which should make things a lot clearer.
Then, I remember I bought a really cheap electronic bore-scope about 5 years ago and haven't seen it since . Went looking for it and found it! Sure enough there's some white crap up in there - kind of hard to tell as the borescope is a bit disorientating but i think it's probably dried coolant. Anyway, I'll order the new pump and take off the pulley first which should make things a lot clearer.
#26
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
Seems to be some mixed reviews on whether the OEM closed system is bad (or if an open system is 'better' - rather than just different). I've never had any overheating issues and I'm leaning towards just replacing what's there already - although I'd spring for an all aluminum rad (not keen on plastic tanks) because it would presumably be subject to less corrosion - not sure if that true in practice
I do like the idea of a filter neck though - would make filling/draining/burping the system easier.
I do like the idea of a filter neck though - would make filling/draining/burping the system easier.
As for the rad, I think the original is an all metal soldered copper/brass rad., at least that's what's in mine. If that's what you have and it's leaking you could take it to a rad. shop and have it repaired. If it is a soldered rad. it's been said that some of the modern long life coolants don't protect the solder, or maybe even attack it, so I use the old style coolant in all my soldered rad. vehicles; I have more of those than I do plastic/aluminum rads. Even if the rad. is changed to aluminum do consider the soldered heater core.
#27
No, I don't lick fish.
I have a closed system and it works fine, I won't change it unless it becomes a problem. I've had no issues with filling/burping and find it easier than the open systems. The majority of modern systems are closed too and most don't have issues. That said, I trust Cruiser and maybe there's just a problem with this particular closed system.
As for the rad, I think the original is an all metal soldered copper/brass rad., at least that's what's in mine. If that's what you have and it's leaking you could take it to a rad. shop and have it repaired. If it is a soldered rad. it's been said that some of the modern long life coolants don't protect the solder, or maybe even attack it, so I use the old style coolant in all my soldered rad. vehicles; I have more of those than I do plastic/aluminum rads. Even if the rad. is changed to aluminum do consider the soldered heater core.
As for the rad, I think the original is an all metal soldered copper/brass rad., at least that's what's in mine. If that's what you have and it's leaking you could take it to a rad. shop and have it repaired. If it is a soldered rad. it's been said that some of the modern long life coolants don't protect the solder, or maybe even attack it, so I use the old style coolant in all my soldered rad. vehicles; I have more of those than I do plastic/aluminum rads. Even if the rad. is changed to aluminum do consider the soldered heater core.
The PITA comes into play with newer high-mileage vehicles that might have a "pinhole" leak. The leak is so slow you don't notice, but since it allows air into the closed system, it makes a mountain out of a molehill pretty quick.
#28
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Year: 1990
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Most newer systems have a bleeder valve on the block which makes the process much easier.
The PITA comes into play with newer high-mileage vehicles that might have a "pinhole" leak. The leak is so slow you don't notice, but since it allows air into the closed system, it makes a mountain out of a molehill pretty quick.
The PITA comes into play with newer high-mileage vehicles that might have a "pinhole" leak. The leak is so slow you don't notice, but since it allows air into the closed system, it makes a mountain out of a molehill pretty quick.
#29
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Year: 1990
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We are dealing with a horrible case of this:
#30
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